Where Is the Spark Plug on Arctic Cat Atv 250

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FOREWORD

This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service, maintenance, and troubleshooting information for certain 2012

Arctic Cat ATV models (see cover). The complete manual is designed to aid service personnel in service-oriented

applications.

Arctic Cat offers additional publications (when they become available) to aid in servicing other ATV models. To

service models not included in this manual, please refer to the following publications:

2012 Y-12+ Service Manual

2012 T-14 Service Manual

2012 300 DVX/Utility Service Manual

2012 350 Service Manual

2012 425 Service Manual

2012 700 Diesel Service Manual

2012 450 XC Service Manual

2012 650 Service Manual

2012 550/700 Service Manual

This manual is divided into sections. Each section covers a specific ATV component or system and, in addition to

the standard service procedures, includes disassembling, inspecting, and assembling instructions. When using this

manual as a guide, the technician should use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to correct any given

condition.

The service technician should become familiar with the operation and construction of each component or system

by carefully studying the complete manual. This manual will assist the service technician in becoming more aware

of and efficient with servicing procedures. Such efficiency not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves

time and labor.

All Arctic Cat ATV publications and decals display the words Warning, Caution, Note, and At This Point to

emphasize important information. The symbol ! WARNING identifies personal safety-related information.

Be sure to follow the directive because it deals with the possibility of severe personal injury or even death. A

CAUTION identifies unsafe practices which may result in ATV-related damage. Follow the directive because it

deals with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the ATV. The symbol NOTE: identifies supplementary

information worthy of particular attention. The symbol AT THIS POINT directs the technician to certain

and specific procedures to promote efficiency and to improve clarity.

At the time of publication, all information, photographs, and illustrations were technically correct. Some photo-

graphs used in this manual are used for clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly refines and improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred.

All materials and specifications are subject to change without notice.

Keep this manual accessible in the shop area for reference.

Product Service and

Warranty Department

Arctic Cat Inc.

© 2011 Arctic Cat Inc. August 2011

®™ Trademarks of Arctic Cat Inc., Thief River Falls, MN 56701

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

'PSFXPSE

1. General Information/Specifications

2. Periodic Maintenance

3. Engine/Transmission

4. Fuel/Lubrication/Cooling

5. Electrical System

6. Drive System/Brake System

7. Suspension

8. Steering/Frame

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

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Note: To navigate through this manual, use the PAGE UP/PAGE DOWN buttons on the keyboard, click on the

Table of Contents bookmarks on the left side of the screen, or click the blue text below. To return to this page,

click the Manual Table of Contents button at the bottom of each page.

Click on the blue text to go.

1-1

1

SECTION 1 - GENERAL INFORMATION/

SPECIFICATIONS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

General Specifications ............................................ 1-2

Torque Specifications .............................................. 1-3

Torque Conversions (ft-lb/N-m) ............................... 1-4

Break-In Procedure ................................................. 1-4

Gasoline - Oil - Lubricant ........................................ 1-5

Genuine Parts ......................................................... 1-5

Preparation For Storage.......................................... 1-6

Preparation After Storage........................................ 1-6

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1-2

General Specifications

Specifications subject to change without notice.

* One inch below plug threads.

** At the plug threads.

450

CHASSIS

Brake Type Hydraulic w/Brake Lever

Lock and Auxiliary Brake

Tire Size Front - 25 x 8-12

Rear - 25 x 10-12

Tire Inflation Pressure 0.35 kg/cm² (5 psi)

MISCELLANY

Spark Plug Type NGK CR7E

Spark Plug Gap 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.031 in.)

Gas Tank Capacity 21.6 L (5.7 U.S. gal.) - FIS

20.0 L (5.3 U.S. gal.) - TRV

Coolant Capacity 2.9 L (3.0 U.S. qt)

Rear Drive Capacity 250 ml (8.5 fl oz)*

Front Differential Capacity 275 ml (9.3 fl oz)**

Engine Oil Capacity (approx) 2.85 L (3.0 U.S. qt) -

Overhaul

2.50 L (2.6 U.S. qt) - Change

Gasoline (recommended) 87 Octane Regular

Unleaded

Engine Oil (recommended) Arctic Cat ACX All Weather

(Synthetic)

Differential/Rear Drive Lubricant SAE Approved 80W-90

Hypoid

Drive Belt Width (minimum) 28.5 mm (1.12 in.)

Brake Fluid DOT 4

Taillight/Brakelight 12V/8W/27W

Headlight 12V/37W (2)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @ 1500 RPM

Spark Plug Cap 5000 ohms

Ignition Coil (primary)

Resistance

(secondary)

Less than 5.0 ohms

(terminal (+) to terminal (-))

12k-19k ohms (high tension -

plug cap - to terminal (+))

Ignition Coil Primary Voltage Battery Voltage

(orange (+) to blue/white(-))

Stator Coil (crankshaft position sensor)

Resistance

(AC generator)

150-250 ohms (blue to

green)

Less than 1 ohm (yellow to

yellow)

Crankshaft Position Sensor AC Voltage 2.0 volts or more (blue to

green)

AC Generator Output (no load) 75 AC volts @ 5000 RPM

(yellow to yellow)

1000

CHASSIS

Brake Type Hydraulic w/Brake Lever

Lock and Auxiliary Brake

Tire Size

(Mud Pro)

(Mud Pro)

(Cruiser)

(Cruiser)

Front - 25 x 9-12

Rear - 25 x 11-12

Front - 28 x 9-14

Rear - 28 x 11-14

Front - 25 x 8-12

Rear - 25 x 10-12

Tire Inflation Pressure 0.35 kg/cm² (5 psi) - Mud Pro

0.49 kg/cm² (7 psi) - TRV/

Cruiser

MISCELLANY

Spark Plug Type NGK CPR8E

Spark Plug Gap 0.5-0.6 mm (0.019-0.024 in.)

Gas Tank Capacity 21.6 L (5.7 U.S. gal.) - FIS

20.0 L (5.3 U.S. gal.) -

Cruiser/TRV

Coolant Capacity 3.3 L (3.5 U.S. qt)

Differential Capacity 275 ml (9.3 fl oz)*

Rear Drive Capacity 250 ml (8.5 fl oz)**

Engine Oil

Capacity (approx)

2.6 L (2.75 U.S. qt) -

Overhaul

1.9 L (2.0 U.S. qt) - Change

Gasoline (recommended) 87 Octane Regular

Unleaded

Engine Oil (recommended) Arctic Cat ACX All Weather

(Synthetic)

Front Differential/Rear Drive Lubricant SAE Approved 80W-90

Hypoid

Drive Belt Width (minimum) 35.6 mm (1.40 in.)

Brake Fluid DOT 4

Taillight/Brakelight 12V/8W/27W

Headlight 12V/27W (2)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @ 1500 RPM

Spark Plug Cap 5000 ohms

Ignition Coil (primary)

Resistance

(secondary)

4.8 ohms (terminal (+) to

terminal (-))

12k-19k ohms (high tension -

plug cap to terminal)

Ignition Coil

Primary Voltage

Battery Voltage

(orange to ground)

Stator Coil (crankshaft position sensor)

Resistance

(AC generator)

150-250 ohms (blue to

green)

Less than 1 ohm (gray to

gray)

Crankshaft Position Sensor

AC Voltage

2.0 volts or more

(blue to green)

Generator Output (no load) 75 AC volts or more

@ 5000 RPM (

black to black

)

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1-3

1

Torque Specifications

* w/Blue Loctite #243

** w/Red Loctite #271

*** w/Green Loctite #609

**** w/Three Bond Sealant

EXHAUST COMPONENTS

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Exhaust Pipe Engine 20 27

Spark Arrester Muffler 48

in.-lb

5.5

ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS

Engine/Harness Ground Cap

Screw

Crankcase 8 11

Coil Air Filter Housing 7 10

STEERING COMPONENTS

Steering Post Bearing

Housing

Frame 20 27

Steering Post Bearing Flange Frame 20 27

Lower Steering Bearing

Washer Cap Screw***

Steering Post 40 54

Tie Rod End Knuckle/Steering Post 30 41

EPS Housing Frame 35 47

BRAKE COMPONENTS

Brake Disc* Hub 15 20

Brake Hose Caliper 20 27

Brake Hose (Banjo-Fitting) Master Cylinder 20 27

Brake Hose Auxiliary Brake Cylinder 20 27

Master Cylinder (Rear) Frame 12 16

Hydraulic Caliper Knuckle

(w/"Patch-Lock")

20 27

Master Cylinder Clamp Master Cylinder 6 8

Brake Pedal Brake Pedal Axle 25 34

CHASSIS COMPONENTS

Footrest Frame (8 mm) 20 27

Footrest Frame (10 mm) 40 54

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS (Front)

A-Arm Frame 50 68

Knuckle Ball Joint 35 47

Shock Absorber Frame/Upper A-Arm 50 68

Knuckle A-Arm 50 68

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS (Rear)

Shock Absorber (Upper) Frame 50 68

Shock Absorber (Lower) Lower A-Arm 20 27

A-Arm Frame 50 68

Knuckle (450) A-Arm 35 47

Knuckle (1000) A-Arm 50 68

DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS

(450)

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Engine Mounting Through-Bolt Frame 35 47

Front Differential Frame/Differential

Bracket

38 52

Output Flange Rear Flange Output

Joint

20 27

Pinion Housing Differential Housing 23 31

Differential Housing Cover*** Differential Housing 23 31

Drive Bevel Gear Nut** Shaft 72 98

Lock Collar Differential Housing 125 169

Hub Hex Nut Shaft/Axle (max) 200 272

Oil Drain Plug Front Differential/Rear

Drive

45

in.-lb

5

Oil Fill Plug Front Differential/Rear

Drive

16 22

Oil Drain Plug Engine 16 22

Rear Drive Input Shaft/Housing Differential Housing 23 31

Wheel (Steel) Hub 40 54

Wheel (Aluminum) Hub 80 108

Rear Drive Gear Case Frame 38 52

Engine Output Shaft** Rear Gear Case Input

Flange

20 27

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

(450)

Clutch Shoe** Crankshaft 147 199

Clutch Cover/Housing

Assembly

Crankcase 8 11

Left-Side Cover Crankcase 8 11

Crankcase Half (6 mm) Crankcase Half 10 13.5

Crankcase Half (8 mm) Crankcase Half 21 28

Cylinder Nut Crankcase Half 8 11

Cylinder Head (Cap Screw) Crankcase 28 38

Cylinder Head Nut Cylinder 20 27

Valve Cover**** Cylinder Head 8 11

Oil Pump Drive Gear** Crankshaft 63 86

Driven Pulley Nut** Driveshaft 147 199

Ground Cable Engine 8 11

Output Shaft Flange Nut Output Shaft 59 80

Magneto Rotor Nut Crankshaft 107 146

Cam Sprocket** Camshaft 11 15

Cam Chain Tensioner Guide Cylinder 11 15

Stator Coil** Crankcase 8 11

Starter Motor Crankcase 8 11

V-Belt Cover Crankcase 8 11

Valve Adjuster Jam Nut Valve Adjuster 7 9.5

Oil Fitting Engine 8 11

Oil Pump** Crankcase 8 11

Tappet Cover Valve Cover 8 11

Cam Chain Tensioner Cylinder 10 13.5

Magneto Cover Crankcase 8 11

Rear Driveline Output Drive Flange 20 27

Starter One-Way Clutch** Flywheel 26 35

Movable Drive Face Nut** Clutch Shaft 147 199

Water Pump Cover/Housing Magneto Cover 8 11

Water Pump Drive Gear Crankshaft 28 38

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1-4

* w/Blue Loctite #243

** w/Red Loctite #271

*** w/Green Loctite #609

**** w/Three Bond Sealant

Torque Conversions

(ft-lb/N-m)

Break-In Procedure

A new ATV and an overhauled ATV engine require a

"break-in" period. The first 10 hours (or 200 miles) are

most critical to the life of this ATV. Proper operation dur-

ing this break-in period will help assure maximum life

and performance from the ATV.

During the first 10 hours (or 200 miles) of operation,

always use less than 1/2 throttle. Varying the engine

RPM during the break-in peri od allows the components

to "load" (aiding the mating process) and then "unload"

(allowing components to cool). Although it is essential to

place some stress on the engine components during

break-in, care should be taken not to overload the engine

too often. Do not pull a trailer or carry heavy loads dur-

ing the 10-hour break-in period.

When the engine starts, allow it to warm up properly. Idle

the engine several minutes until the engine has reached

normal operating temperature. Do not idle the engine for

excessively long periods of time.

DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS (1000)

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Engine Mount (Rear) Frame 45 61

Front Differential Frame/Differential

Bracket

38 52

Rear Gear Case Frame 38 52

Pinion Housing Differential Housing 23 31

Differential Housing Cover*** Differential Housing 23 31

Lock Collar Differential Housing 125 169

Hub Nut Shaft/Axle (max) 200 272

Oil Drain Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

45

in.-lb

5

Oil Fill Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

16 22

Oil Drain Plug Engine 16 22

Wheel (Steel) Hub 40 54

Wheel (Aluminum) Hub 80 108

Rear Drive Input Shaft/Housing Differential Housing 23 31

Rear Output Drive Flange Rear Yoke Flange 20 27

Shift Cam Stopper Shift Stopper 8 11

Shift Cam Plate Shift Cam Shaft 8 11

Shifter Housing Crankcase 8 11

Engine Output Shaft** Rear Gear Case

Input Flange

20 27

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION (1000)

Clutch Shoe** Crankshaft 221 300

Clutch Cover/Housing Assembly Crankcase 811

Crankcase Half Crankcase Half 811

Crankcase Lower Cover (6 mm) Crankcase 811

Crankcase Lower Cover (8 mm) Crankcase 20 27

Cylinder Head (Cap Screw) Crankcase 37 50

Cylinder Head (6 mm) Cylinder 811

Cylinder Head (8 mm) Cylinder 18 24

Cylinder Head Cover Cylinder Head 8.5 11.5

Driven Pulley Nut** Driveshaft 80 108

Ground Wire Engine 811

Magneto Cover Crankcase 811

Oil Filler Cover Crankcase 811

Speed Sensor Housing Crankcase 811

Starter Motor Crankcase 811

V-Belt Housing Crankcase 811

Intake Manifold Cylinder 811

Output Shaft Yoke Nut Output Shaft 59 80

Rotor/Flywheel Nut Crankshaft 107 145

Cam Sprocket** Camshaft 10 13.5

V-Belt Cover Clutch Cover 811

Movable Drive Face Nut** Clutch Shaft 165 224

Oil Pump Cover* Crankcase 811

Oil Strainer Cap Crankcase 811

Shift Cam Stopper Crankcase 811

Shift Cam Stopper Spring Shift Cam Stopper 811

Shift Cam Plate Shift Cam Shaft 811

Shifter Housing Crankcase 811

Secondary Drive Gear Nut Gear 74 100

Starter One-Way Clutch** Flywheel 26 35

Output Yoke Nut Output Shaft 74 100

ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m

11.4 26 35.4 51 69.4 76 103.4

22.7 27 36.7 52 70.7 77 104.7

34.1 28 38.1 53 72.1 78 106.1

45.4 29 39.4 54 73.4 79 107.4

56.8 30 40.8 55 74.8 80 108.8

68.2 31 42.2 56 76.2 81 110.2

79.5 32 43.5 57 77.5 82 111.5

810.9 33 44.9 58 78.9 83 112.9

912.2 34 46.2 59 80.2 84 114.2

10 13.6 35 47.6 60 81.6 85 115.6

11 15 36 49 61 83 86 117

12 16.3 37 50.3 62 84.3 87 118.3

13 17.7 38 51.7 63 85.7 88 119.7

14 19 39 53 64 87 89 121

15 20.4 40 54.4 65 88.4 90 122.4

16 21.8 41 55.8 66 89.8 91 123.8

17 23.1 42 57.1 67 91.1 92 125.1

18 24.5 43 58.5 68 92.5 93 126.5

19 25.8 44 59.8 69 93.8 94 127.8

20 27.2 45 61.2 70 95.2 95 129.2

21 28.6 46 62.6 71 96.6 96 130.6

22 29.9 47 63.9 72 97.9 97 131.9

23 31.3 48 65.3 73 99.3 98 133.3

24 32.6 49 66.6 74 100.6 99 134.6

25 34 50 68 75 102 100 136

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1-5

1

During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle is

recommended; however, brief full-throttle accelerations

and variations in driving speeds contribute to good

engine break-in.

After the completion of the break-in period, the engine

oil and oil filter should be changed. Other maintenance

after break-in should include checking of all prescribed

adjustments and tightening of all fasteners (see Periodic

Maintenance Chart in Section 2).

Gasoline - Oil - Lubricant

RECOMMENDED GASOLINE

The recommended gasoline to use is 87 minimum octane

regular unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates (either etha-

nol or MTBE) are added to the gasoline. Oxygenated

gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol, 5% methane, or

5% MTBE are acceptable gasolines.

When using ethanol blended gasoline, it is not necessary

to add a gasoline antifreeze since ethanol will prevent the

accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.

RECOMMENDED ENGINE/

TRANSMISSION OIL

The recommended oil to use is Arctic Cat ACX All

Weather synthetic engine oil, which has been specifically

formulated for use in this Arctic Cat engine. Although

Arctic Cat ACX All Weather synthetic engine oil is the

only oil recommended for use in this engine, use of any

API certified SM 0W-40 oil is acceptable.

OILCHARTJ

RECOMMENDED FRONT

DIFFERENTIAL/REAR DRIVE

LUBRICANT

The recommended lubricant is Arctic Cat Gear Lube or

an equivalent gear lube which is SAE approved 80W-90

hypoid. This lubricant meets all of the lubrication

requirements of the Arctic Cat ATV front differentials

and rear drives.

FILLING GAS TANK

Since gasoline expands as its temperature rises, the gas

tank must be filled to its rated capacity only. Expansion

room must be maintained in the tank particularly if the

tank is filled with cold gasoline and then moved to a

warm area.

ATV0049B

Tighten the gas tank cap securely after filling the tank.

Genuine Parts

When replacement of parts is necessary, use only genuine

Arctic Cat ATV parts. They are precision-made to ensure

high quality and correct fit. Refer to the appropriate Illus-

trated Parts Manual for the correct part number, quantity,

and description.

CAUTION

Do not use white gas. Only Arctic Cat approved gaso-

line additives should be used.

CAUTION

Any oil used in place of the recommended oil could

cause serious engine damage. Do not use oils which

contain graphite or molybdenum additives. These oils

can adversely affect clutch operation. Also, not recom-

mended are racing, vegetable, non-detergent, and cas-

tor-based oils.

CAUTION

Any lubricant used in place of the recommended lubri-

cant could cause serious front differential/rear drive

damage.

! WARNING

Always fill the gas tank in a well-ventilated area. Never

add fuel to the ATV gas tank near any open flames or

with the engine running. DO NOT SMOKE while filling

the gas tank.

! WARNING

Do not overflow gasoline when filling the gas tank. A

fire hazard could materialize. Always allow the engine to

cool before filling the gas tank.

! WARNING

Do not over-fill the gas tank.

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1-6

Preparation For Storage

Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure to pre-

pare the ATV for storage.

1. Clean the seat cushion (cover and base) with a

damp cloth and allow it to dry.

2. Clean the ATV thoroughly by washing dirt, oil,

grass, and other foreign matter from the entire

ATV. Allow the ATV to dry thoroughly. DO NOT

get water into any part of the engine or air intake.

3. Either drain the gas tank or add Fuel Stabilizer to

the gas in the gas tank. Re move the air filter hous-

ing cover and air filter. Start the engine and allow

it to idle; then using Arctic Cat Engine Storage

Preserver, rapidly inject the preserver into the air

filter opening for a period of 10 to 20 seconds.

Stop the engine. Install the air filter and housing

cover.

4. Plug the exhaust hole in the exhaust system with a

clean cloth.

5. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushing

and plungers of the shock absorbers.

6. Tighten all nuts, bolts, cap screws, and screws.

Make sure rivets holding components together are

tight. Replace all loose rivets. Care must be taken

that all calibrated nuts, cap screws, and bolts are

tightened to specifications.

7. Fill the cooling system to the bottom of the stand

pipe in the radiator neck with properly mixed

coolant.

8. Disconnect the battery cables; then remove the

battery, clean the battery posts and cables, and

store in a clean, dry area.

9. Store the ATV indoors in a level position.

Preparation After

Storage

Taking the ATV out of storage and correctly preparing it

will assure many miles and hours of trouble-free riding.

Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure to pre-

pare the ATV.

1. Clean the ATV thoroughly.

2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the

exhaust system.

3. Check all control wires and cables for signs of

wear or fraying. Replace if necessary.

4. Change the engine/transmission oil and filter.

5. Check the coolant level and add properly mixed

coolant as necessary.

6. Charge the battery; then install. Connect the bat-

tery cables.

7. Check the entire brake systems (fluid level, pads,

etc.), all controls, headlights, taillight, brakelight,

and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.

8. Tighten all nuts, bolts, cap screws, and screws

making sure all calibrated nuts, cap screws, and

bolts are tightened to specifications.

9. Check tire pressure. Inflate to recommended pres-

sure as necessary.

10. Make sure the steering moves freely and does not

bind.

11. Check the spark plug(s). Clean or replace as nec-

essary.

CAUTION

Prior to storing the ATV, it must be properly serviced to

prevent rusting and component deterioration.

CAUTION

If the interior of the air filter housing is dirty, clean the

area before starting the engine.

CAUTION

Avoid storing outside in direct sunlight and avoid using

a plastic cover as moisture will collect on the ATV caus-

ing rusting.

CAUTION

The ignition switch must be in the OFF position prior to

installing the battery or dama ge may occur to the igni-

tion system.

CAUTION

Connect the positive battery cable first; then the nega-

tive.

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2-1

2

SECTION 2 -

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Periodic Maintenance Chart.................................... 2-2

Periodic Maintenance.............................................. 2-3

Lubrication Points.................................................... 2-3

Air Filter................................................................... 2-3

Valve/Tappet Clearance .......................................... 2-4

Testing Engine Compression .................................. 2-5

Spark Plug(s) .......................................................... 2-5

Muffler/Spark Arrester ............................................. 2-6

Engine/Transmission Oil - Filter - Strainer .............. 2-6

Liquid Cooling System ............................................ 2-7

Front Differential/Rear Drive Lubricant .................... 2-9

Nuts/Bolts/Cap Screws............................................ 2-9

Headlights/Taillight-Brakelight ................................. 2-9

Shift Lever ............................................................. 2-11

Hydraulic Brake Systems ...................................... 2-11

Burnishing Brake Pads.......................................... 2-13

Checking/Replacing V-Belt.................................... 2-13

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2-2

Periodic Maintenance

Chart

A = Adjust I = Inspect

C = Clean L = Lubricate

D = Drain R = Replace

T = Tighten

* Service/Inspect more frequently when operating in adverse conditions.

** When using an API certified SM 0W-40 oil.

*** When using Arctic Cat ACX All Weather synthetic oil, oil change interval can be increased to every 1,000 miles or every year.

Item

Initial Service

After Break-In

(First Month or

100 Miles)

Every

Day

Every

Month or

Every 100

Miles

Every 3

Months or

Every 300

Miles

Every 6

Months or

Every 500

Miles

Every Year

or Every

1500 Miles

As Needed

Battery I I C

Fuses IR

Air Filter I I R

Valve/Tappet Clearance I I A

Engine Compression I

Spark Plug(s) I I R

(4000 Mi or 18 Mo)

Muffler/Spark Arrester CR

Gas/Vent Hoses I I R (2 Yrs)

Throttle Cable I I C-L A-R

Engine-Transmission Oil Level I A

Engine-Transmission Oil/Filter R R*/R**/R*** R

Oil Strainer C

Front Differential/Rear Drive Lubricant I I R (4 Yrs)

Tires/Air Pressure I I R

Steering Components I I I R

V-Belt I l R

Suspension (Ball joint boots, drive axle

boots front and rear, tie rods,

differential and rear drive bellows)

II R

Nuts/Cap Screws/Screws I I T

Ignition Timing I

Headlight/Taillight-Brakelight I I R

Switches I I R

Shift Lever IA-L

Handlebar Grips I R

Handlebar I I R

Gauges/Indicators I I R

Frame/Welds/Racks I l

Electrical Connections I l C

Complete Brake System (Hydraulic &

Auxiliary)

II C L-R

Brake Pads I I* R

Brake Fluid I I R (2 Yrs)

Brake Hoses I I R (4 Yrs)

Coolant/Cooling System I I R (2 Yrs)

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2-3

2

Periodic Maintenance

This section has been organized into sub-sections which

show common maintenance procedures for the Arctic Cat

ATV.

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of new gas-

kets, lock nuts, and seals and lubricating all internal

components when servicing the engine/transmission.

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used in

this section are used for clarity purposes only and

are not designed to depict actual conditions.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located in

Section 1.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the techni-

cian when performing service procedures in this section.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Department.

Lubrication Points

It is advisable to lubricate certain components periodi-

cally to ensure free movement. Apply light oil to the

components using the following list as reference.

A. Throttle Lever Pivot

B. Brake Lever Pivot

C. Auxiliary Brake Pedal Pivot

Air Filter

Use the following procedure to remove the filter and

inspect and/or clean it.

1. Remove the fasteners securing the storage compart-

ment and remove the storage compartment.

2. Remove the air filter housing cover and the air fil-

ter/frame assembly.

3. Remove the foam element from the frame making

sure not to tear the element.

FI515

GZ019

4. Fill a wash pan larger than the element with a

non-flammable solvent; then dip the element in the

solvent and wash it.

NOTE: Foam Air Filter Cleaner and Foam Air Filter

Oil are available from Arctic Cat.

5. Squeeze the element by pressing it between the

palms of both hands to remove excess solvent. Do

not twist or ring the element or it will develop

cracks.

6. Dry the element.

7. Put the element in a plastic bag; then pour in air filter

oil and work the oil into the element.

8. Squeeze the element to remove excess oil.

9. Clean any dirt or debris from inside the air cleaner.

10. Install the air filter/frame assembly and cover.

11. Install the storage compartment and cover.

CHECKING AND CLEANING DRAINS

1. Inspect the drains beneath the main housing for

debris and for proper sealing.

Description p/n

Compression Tester Kit 0444-213

Oil Filter Wrench 0644-389

Tachometer 0644-275

Timing Light 0644-296

Valve Clearance Adjuster 0444-255

CAUTION

A torn air filter can cause damage to the ATV engine.

Dirt and dust may get inside the engine if the element is

torn. Carefully examine the element for tears before and

after cleaning it. Replace the element with a new one if it

is torn.

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2-4

KX045A

2. Replace any drain that is cracked or shows any signs

of hardening or deterioration.

3. Wipe any accumulation of oil or gas from the filter

housing and drains.

Valve/Tappet Clearance

To check and adjust valve/tappet clearance, use the fol-

lowing procedure.

1. Remove the timing inspection plug; then remove the

tappet covers and spark plug(s) (for more detailed

information, see Sectio n 3 - Servicing Top-Side

Components).

NOTE: On the 1000 models, remove the crankshaft

end cap and install the special cap screw (left-hand

threads) to rotate the engine.

2. Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC position on the

compression stroke (front cylinder on the 1000 mod-

els).

GZ063

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

Feeler Gauge Procedure

Using a feeler gauge, check each valve/tappet

clearance. If clearance is not within specifica-

tions, loosen the jam nut and rotate the tappet

adjuster screw until the clearance is within speci-

fications. Tighten each jam nut securely after

completing the adjustment.

CC007DC

B. On the 1000 models, rotate the engine 270° to the

TDC position of the rear cylinder; then repeat step

A.

GZ059

Valve Adjuster Procedure

NOTE: The seat, storage compartment cover

assembly, compartment box, air filter/filter housing,

and left-side/right-side splash panels must be

removed for this procedure.

A. Place Valve Clearance Ad juster onto the jam nut

securing the tappet adjuster screw; then rotate the

valve adjuster dial clockwise until the end is

seated in the tappet adjuster screw.

CAUTION

The drain to the right is the clean air section of the filter

housing. Any leak of this drain will allow dirt into the

engine intake causing severe engine damage.

CAUTION

The feeler gauge must be positioned at the same angle

as the valve and valve adjuster for an accurate measure-

ment of clearance. Failure to measure the valve clear-

ance accurately could cause valve component damage.

VALVE/TAPPET CLEARANCE

450 0.08-0.12 mm (0.003-0.005 in.) - Intake

0.15-0.20 mm (0.006-0.008 in.) - Exhaust

1000 0.08-0.12 mm (0.003-0.005 in.) - Intake

0.13-0.17 mm (0.005-0.007 in.) - Exhaust

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2

B. While holding the valve adjuster dial in place, use

the valve adjuster handle and loosen the jam nut;

then rotate the tappet adjuster screw clockwise

until friction is felt.

C. Align the valve adjuster handle with one of the

marks on the valve adjuster dial.

D. While holding the valve adjuster handle in place,

rotate the valve adjuster dial counterclockwise

until proper valve/tappet clearance is attained.

NOTE: Refer to the appropriate specifications in

Feeler Gauge Procedure sub-section for the proper

valve/tappet clearance.

NOTE: Rotating the valve adjuster dial counter-

clockwise will open the valve/tappet clearance by

0.05 mm (0.002 in.) per mark.

E. While holding the adjuster dial at the proper

clearance setting, tighten the jam nut securely

with the valve adjuster handle.

F. Rotate the engine 270° to the TDC position of the

rear cylinder; then repeat steps A-E for the rear

cylinder.

3. Install the timing inspection plug; then on the 1000

models, remove the cap screw and install the crank-

case end cap.

4. Place the tappet covers into position making sure the

proper cap screws are with the proper cover. Tighten

the cap screws securely.

5. Install the spark plug(s).

Testing Engine

Compression

To test engine compression, use the following procedure.

1. Remove the high tension lead(s) from the spark

plug(s).

2. Using compressed air, blow any debris from around

the spark plug(s).

3. Remove the spark plug(s); then attach the high ten-

sion lead(s) to the plug(s) and ground the plug(s) on

the cylinder head(s) well aw ay from the spark plug

hole(s).

4. Attach the Compression Tester Kit.

NOTE: The engine should be warm (operating tem-

perature) and the battery fully charged for an accu-

rate compression test. Throttle must be in the

wide-open throttle (WOT) posi tion. In the event the

engine cannot be run, cold values are included.

5. While holding the throttle lever in the full-open posi-

tion, crank the engine over with the electric starter

until the gauge shows a peak reading (five to 10

compression strokes).

6. If compression is abnormally low, inspect the

following items.

A. Verify starter cranks en gine over at normal speed

(approximately 400 RPM).

B. Gauge functioning properly.

C. Throttle lever in the full-open position.

D. Valve/tappet clearance correct.

E. Engine warmed up.

F. Intake not restricted.

NOTE: To service valves, see Section 3.

7. Pour 29.5 ml (1 fl oz) of oil into the spark plug hole,

reattach the gauge, and retest compression.

8. If compression is now evident, service the piston

rings (see Section 3).

Spark Plug(s)

A light brown insulator indicates that a plug is correct. A

white or dark insulator indicates that the engine may need

to be serviced. To maintain a hot, strong spark, keep the

plug free of carbon.

ATV-0051

Adjust the gap to correct specification (see Section 1 for

proper type and gap). Use a feeler gauge to check the gap.

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when using compressed

air.

COMPRESSION

Model PSI Hot (WOT) PSI Cold (WOT)

450 95-115 N/A

1000 (Front) 125-145 80-120

1000 (Rear) 165-185 150-190

CAUTION

Before removing a spark plug, be sure to clean the area

around the spark plug. Dirt could enter engine when

removing or installing the spark plug.

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ATV0052

When installing the spark plug, be sure to tighten it

securely. A new spark plug should be tightened 1/2 turn

once the washer contacts the cylinder head. A used spark

plug should be tightened 1/8 - 1/4 turn once the washer

contacts the cylinder head.

Muffler/Spark Arrester

At the intervals shown in the Periodic Maintenance

Chart, clean the spark arrester using the following proce-

dure.

1. Remove the three cap screws securing the spark

arrester assembly to the muffler; then loosen and

remove the arrester.

CF105A

2. Using a suitable brush, clean the carbon deposits

from the screen taking care not to damage the screen.

NOTE: If the screen or gasket is damaged in any

way, it must be replaced.

3. Install the spark arrester assembly with gasket; then

secure with the three cap screws. Tighten to 48 in.-lb.

CF104

Engine/Transmission

Oil - Filter - Strainer

OIL - FILTER

The engine should always be warm when the oil is

changed so the oil will drain easily and completely.

1. Park the ATV on level ground.

2. Remove the oil level stick/filler plug.

KC372A

GZ415A

3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the engine

and drain the oil into a drain pan.

! WARNING

Wait until the muffler cools to avoid burns.

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2

733-441A

4. Remove the oil filter plug from the filter mounting

boss (located on the front side of the transmission

case) and allow the filter to drain completely. Install

the plug and tighten securely.

5. Using the adjustable Oil Filter Wrench and a suitable

wrench, remove the old oil filter.

NOTE: Clean up any excess oil after removing the

filter.

6. Apply oil to a new filter O-ring and check to make

sure it is positioned correctly; then install the new oil

filter. Tighten securely.

NOTE: Install a new O-ring each time the filter is

replaced.

7. Install the engine drain plug and tighten to 16 ft-lb.

Pour the specified amount of the recommended oil in

the filler hole. Install the oil level stick/filler plug.

8. Start the engine (while the ATV is outside on level

ground) and allow it to idle for a few minutes.

9. Turn the engine off and wait approximately one min-

ute.

10. Remove the oil level stick and wipe it with a clean

cloth.

11. Install the oil level stick and thread into the engine

case.

12. Remove the oil level stick; the oil level must be

within the operating range but not exceeding the

upper mark.

GZ461A

13. Inspect the area around the drain plug and oil filter

for leaks.

Liquid Cooling System

NOTE: Debris in front of the engine or packed

between the cooling fins of the radiator can reduce

cooling capability. Using a garden hose, wash the

radiator to remove any debris preventing air flow.

The cooling system capacity can be found in Section 1.

The cooling system should be inspected daily for leakage

and damage. If leakage or damage is detected, take the

ATV to an authorized Arctic Cat ATV dealer for service.

Also, the coolant level should be checked periodically.

NOTE: High engine RPM, low vehicle speed, or

heavy load can raise engine temperature. Decreasing

engine RPM, reducing load, and selecting an appro-

priate transmission gear can lower the temperature.

When filling the cooling system, use a coolant/water

mixture which will satisfy the coldest anticipated weather

conditions of the area in accordance with the coolant

manufacturer's recommendations. While the cooling sys-

tem is being filled, air pockets may develop; therefore,

run the engine for five minutes after the initial fill, shut

the engine off, and then fill the cooling system to the bot-

tom of the stand pipe in the radiator neck.

CAUTION

Any oil used in place of the recommended oil could

cause serious engine damage. Do not use oils which

contain graphite or molybdenum additives. These oils

can adversely affect clutch operation. Also, not recom-

mended are racing, vegetable, non-detergent, and cas-

tor-based oils.

CAUTION

Do not over-fill the engine with oil. Always make sure

that the oil level is not above the upper mark.

CAUTION

Arctic Cat does not recommend using a pressure

washer to clean the radiator core. The pressure may

bend or flatten the fins causing restricted air flow, and

electrical componen ts on the radiator could be dam-

aged. Use only a garden hose with spray nozzle at nor-

mal tap pressure.

CAUTION

Continued operation of the ATV with high engine tem-

perature may result in engine damage or premature

wear.

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Checking/Filling

1. On the 1000 models, remove the two screws from

the front of the radiator access panel. On the 450

models, remove the four screws securing the radiator

access panel.

FI465A

FI476

2. On the 1000 models, lift the front of the access

panel; then slide the panel forward to disengage the

two rear tabs.

3. On the 1000 models, move the panel rearward until

free of the rack. On the 450 models, move the panel

forward until free of the ATV.

NOTE: Steps 4-6 are for Mud Pro models; for other

models, proceed to step 7.

4. Remove four cap screws securing the snorkel hous-

ing to the front inspection panel; then remove two

cap screws from the rear of the snorkel housing.

MP006A

MP007A

5. Separate the front of the snorkel housing from the

rear; then remove the snorkel housing.

MP003

6. Remove two reinstallable rivets and remove the

splash guard. The radiator cap can now be accessed

in front of the snorkels.

7. Carefully rotate the radiator cap counterclockwise to

release pressure; then remove the cap.

CF142A

8. Add coolant as necessary; then install the radiator

cap and access panel or snorkel housing.

NOTE: Use a good quality, biodegradable gly-

col-based, automotive-type antifreeze.

! WARNING

Never check the coolant level when the engine is hot or

the cooling system is under pressure.

CAUTION

After operating the ATV for the initial 5-10 minutes, stop

the engine, allow the engine to cool down, and check

the coolant level. Add coolant as necessary.

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2

Front Differential/Rear

Drive Lubricant

NOTE: On the 1000 models, the rear drive incorpo-

rates a shock-limiting clutch pack in the gear case

input assembly that is designed to cushion driveline

shock.

When changing the lubricant, use approved SAE 80W-90

hypoid gear lube.

To check lubricant, remove the fill plug; the lubricant

level should be 1 in. below the threads of the plug. If low,

add SAE approved 80W-90 hypoid gear lubricant as nec-

essary.

To change the lubricant, use the following procedure.

1. Place the ATV on level ground.

2. Remove each fill plug.

AL677C

3. Drain the lubricant into a drain pan by removing in

turn the drain plug from each.

ATV0082A

737-651B

4. After all the lubricant has been drained, install the

drain plugs and tighten to 45 in.-lb.

5. Pour the appropriate amount of approved SAE

80W-90 hypoid gear lubricant into the filler hole.

NOTE: If the differential/rear drive lubricant is con-

taminated with water, inspect the drain plug, fill plug,

and/or bladder.

6. Install the fill plugs; then tighten to 16 ft-lb.

Nuts/Bolts/Cap Screws

Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws. Make sure rivets

holding components together are tight. Replace all loose riv-

ets. Care must be taken that all calibrated nuts, bolts, and cap

screws are tightened to speci fications (see Section 1).

Headlights/Tail-

light-Brakelight

NOTE: The bulb portion of a headlight is fragile.

HANDLE WITH CARE. When replacing a headlight

bulb, do not touch the glass portion of the bulb. If the

glass is touched, it must be cleaned with a dry cloth

before installing. Skin oil residue on the bulb will

shorten the life of the bulb.

To replace a headlight bulb, use the following procedure.

1. Rotate the bulb assembly counterclockwise and

remove from the headlight housing; then disconnect

from the wiring harness.

CAUTION

Any lubricant used in place of the recommended gear

case lubricant could result in premature failure of the

shock limiter. Do not use any lubricant containing

graphite or molybdenum additives or other fric-

tion-modified lubricants as these may cause severe

damage to shock limiter components.

CAUTION

Water entering the outer end of the axle will not be able

to enter the rear drive unless the seals are damaged.

! WARNING

Do not attempt to remove a bulb when it is hot. Severe

burns may result.

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2. Connect the new bulb assembly to the wiring harness

connector; then insert into the headlight housing and

rotate fully clockwise.

To replace the taillight-brakelight bulb, use the following

procedure.

1. Turn the bulb socket assembly counterclockwise and

remove from the housing.

CF135A

2. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket; then insert a

new bulb.

CF132A

3. Insert the bulb socket assembly into the housing and

turn it clockwise to secure.

CHECKING/ADJUSTING HEADLIGHT

AIM

The headlights can be adjusted vertically and horizon-

tally. The geometric center of the HIGH beam light zone

is to be used for vertical and horizontal aiming.

1. Position the ATV on a level floor so the headlights

are approximately 6.1 m (20 ft) from an aiming sur-

face (wall or similar aiming surface).

ATV-0070C

NOTE: There should be an average operating load

on the ATV when adjusting the headlight aim.

2. Measure the distance from the floor to the mid-point

of each headlight.

3. Using the measurements obtained in step 2, make

horizontal marks on the aiming surface.

4. Make vertical marks which intersect the horizontal

marks on the aiming surface directly in front of the

headlights.

5. Switch on the lights. Make sure the HIGH beam is

on. DO NOT USE LOW BEAM.

6. Observe each headlight beam aim. Proper aim is

when the most intense beam is centered on the verti-

cal mark 5 cm (2 in.) below the horizontal mark on

the aiming surface.

7. Adjust each headlight by turning the adjuster knob

clockwise to raise the beam or counterclockwise to

lower the beam.

CD714A

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2-11

2

Shift Lever

CHECKING ADJUSTMENT

CF130B

Stop the ATV completely and shift the transmission into

the R position. The reverse gear indicator light should be

illuminated.

If the reverse light does not illuminate when shifted to

the reverse position, the switch may be faulty, the fuse

may be blown, the bulb may be faulty, a connection may

be loose or corroded, or the lever may need adjusting. To

adjust, proceed to Adjusting Shift Lever.

ADJUSTING SHIFT LEVER

1. Remove the seat; then remove the left-side engine

cover.

2. With the ignition switch in the ON position, loosen

jam nut (A) (left-hand threads); then loosen jam nut

(C) and with the shift lever in the reverse position,

adjust the coupler (B) until the transmission is in

reverse and the (R) icon appears on the LCD.

CF258A

3. Tighten the jam nuts securely; then shift the transmis-

sion to each position and verify correct adjustment.

4. Install the left-side engine cover and seat making

sure the seat locks securely in place.

NOTE: An E (Error) in the gear position icon indi-

cates no signal or a poor ground wire connection in

the circuit. Troubleshoot the harness connectors,

gear position switch connector, gear position switch,

and LCD connector.

Hydraulic Brake Systems

CHECKING/BLEEDING

The hydraulic brake systems have been filled and bled at

the factory. To check and/or bleed a hydraulic brake sys-

tem, use the following procedure.

1. With the master cylinder in a level position, check

the fluid level in the reservoir. On the hand brake if

the level in the reservoir is adequate, the sight glass

will appear dark. If the level is low, the sight glass

will appear clear. On the auxiliary brake, the level

must be between the MIN and MAX lines on the res-

ervoir.

738-420A

AL681

2. Compress the brake lever/pedal several times to

check for a firm brake. If the brake is not firm, the

system must be bled.

3. To bleed the main brake system, use the following

procedure.

A. Remove the cover and fill the reservoir with DOT

4 Brake Fluid; then install and secure the cover.

B. Slowly compress the brake lever several times.

! WARNING

Never shift the ATV into re verse gear when the ATV is

moving as it could cause the ATV to stop suddenly

throwing the operator from the ATV.

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C. Remove the protective cap, install one end of a

clear hose onto one FRONT bleeder screw, and

direct the other end into a container; then while

holding slight pressure on the brake lever, open

the bleeder screw and watc h for air bubbles. Close

the bleeder screw before releasing the brake lever.

Repeat this procedure until no air bubbles are

present.

AF637D

PR377C

NOTE: During the bleeding procedure, watch the

sight glass very closely to make sure there is always

a sufficient amount of brake fluid. If low, refill the res-

ervoir before the bleeding procedure is continued.

Failure to maintain a sufficient amount of fluid in the

reservoir will result in air in the system.

D. At this point, perform step B and C on the other

FRONT bleeder screw; then move to the REAR

bleeder screw and follo w the same procedure.

E. Repeat step D until the brake lever is firm.

4. To bleed the auxiliary brake system, use the follow-

ing procedure.

A. Remove the cover and fill the reservoir with DOT

4 Brake Fluid; then install and secure the cover.

B. Slowly compress the brake pedal several times.

C. Remove the protective cap, install one end of a

clear hose onto the rear bleeder screw, and direct

the other end into a container; then while holding

slight pressure on the brake pedal, open the

bleeder screw and watch for air bubbles. Close the

bleeder screw before releasing the brake pedal.

Repeat this procedure until no air bubbles are

present.

AF637D

PR377C

NOTE: During the bleeding procedure, watch the

reservoir very closely to make sure there is always a

sufficient amount of brake fluid. If low, refill the reser-

voir before the bleeding procedure is continued. Fail-

ure to maintain a sufficient amount of fluid in the

reservoir will result in air in the system.

D. Repeat step B and C until the brake pedal is firm.

5. Carefully check the entire hydraulic brake system

that all hose connections are tight, the bleed screws

are tight, the protective caps are installed, and no

leakage is present.

INSPECTING HOSES

Carefully inspect the hydrauli c brake hoses for cracks or

other damage. If found, the brake hoses must be replaced.

CHECKING/REPLACING PADS

The clearance between the brake pads and brake discs is

adjusted automatically as the brake pads wear. The only

maintenance that is required is replacement of the brake

pads when they show excessive wear. Check the thick-

ness of each of the brake pads as follows.

NOTE: As brake pads wear, it may be necessary to

"top-off" the brake fluid in the reservoir.

1. Remove a front wheel.

CAUTION

This hydraulic brake system is designed to use DOT 4

brake fluid only. If brake fluid must be added, care must

be taken as brake fluid is very corrosive to painted sur-

faces.

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2

2. Measure the thickness of each brake pad.

3. If thickness of either brake pad is less than 1.0 mm

(0.039 in.), the brake pads must be replaced.

PR376B

NOTE: The brake pads should be replaced as a set.

4. To replace the brake pads, use the following procedure.

A. Remove the wheel.

B. Remove the cap screws securing the caliper

holder to the knuckle; then remove the pads.

PR237

C. Install the new brake pads.

D. Secure the caliper to the knuckle and/or axle

housing with new "patch-lock" cap screws.

Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

PR377B

E. Install the wheel. Tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel

wheels) or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

5. Burnish the brake pads (see Burnishing Brake Pads

in this section).

Burnishing Brake Pads

Brake pads (both hydraulic and auxiliary) must be bur-

nished to achieve full braking effectiveness. Braking dis-

tance will be extended until brake pads are properly

burnished. To properly burnish the brake pads, use the

following procedure.

1. Choose an area large enough to safely accelerate the

ATV to 30 mph and to brake to a stop.

2. Accelerate to 30 mph; then compress brake lever or

apply the auxiliary brake to decelerate to 0-5 mph.

3. Repeat procedure on each brake system twenty

times.

4. Verify that the brakelight illuminates when the hand

lever is compressed or the brake pedal is depressed.

Checking/Replacing

V-Belt

REMOVING

1. Remove the right-side footrest (see Section 8).

2. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt cover

noting the location of the different-lengthed cap

screws for installing purposes; then using a rubber

mallet, gently tap on the cover tabs to loosen the

cover. Remove the cover.

CD078

3. Remove the nut securing the movable drive face;

then remove the face. Account for the flat washer

and spacer.

! WARNING

Failure to properly burnish the brake pads could lead to

premature brake pad wear or brake loss. Brake loss can

result in severe injury.

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2-14

NOTE: Keep the drive face plate in contact with the

drive face when removing or installing the drive face

to prevent the rollers from falling out.

CD963

CD966A

4. Install one of the CVT cover cap screws into the

driven pulley fixed face; then turn the cap screw

clockwise to spread the pulley faces. Remove the

V-belt.

GZ076

GZ085

INSTALLING

1. Place the V-belt into position on the driven pulley

and over the front shaft.

GZ085

NOTE: The arrows on the V-belt should point in

direction of engine rotation (forward).

2. Pinch the V-belt together near its center and slide the

spacer and movable drive face onto the driveshaft.

Secure the drive face with a washer and nut (coated

with red Loctite #271). Tighten the nut to 147 ft-lb

(450 models) or 165 ft-lb (1000 models).

GZ485A

CAUTION

Make sure the movable drive face plate is fully engaged

onto the splines of the clutch shaft before tightening the

nut or false torque readings may occur. This will cause

the assembly to loosen damaging the shaft and clutch

face plate.

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2

NOTE: At this point, the push-bolt can be removed.

3. Rotate the V-belt and clutches until the V-belt is

flush with the top of the driven clutch.

4. Place the V-belt cover gasket into position; then

install the cover and secure with the cap screws mak-

ing sure the different-lengthed cap screws are in their

proper location. Tighten the cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

CD083

5. Install the right-side footrest (see Section 8).

6. Secure the front fender to the footrest with the two

cap screws. Tighten securely.

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3-1

3

SECTION 3 - ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Engine/Transmission ............................................... 3-2

Specifications (450)................................................. 3-3

Specifications (1000)............................................... 3-3

Troubleshooting ....................................................... 3-4

Table of Contents (450) ........................................... 3-6

Table of Contents (1000) ....................................... 3-49

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3-2

Engine/Transmission

This section has been organized into sub-sections which

show a progression for the complete servicing of the Arc-

tic Cat ATV engine/transmission.

To service the center crankc ase halves, the engine/trans-

mission must be removed from the frame.

To service top-side, left-side, and right-side components,

the engine/transmission does not have to be removed

from the frame.

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of new gas-

kets, lock nuts, and seals and lubricating all internal

components when servicing the engine/ transmis-

sion.

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used in

this section are used for clarity purposes only and

are not designed to depict actual conditions.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located in

Section 1.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the techni-

cian when performing service procedures in this section.

Refer to the current Special Tools Catalog for the appro-

priate tool description.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Department.

Description p/n

Clutch Sleeve Hub Holder 0444-007

Connecting Rod Holder 0444-006

Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft Remover 0444-152

Driven Pulley Compressor 0444-121

Driven Pulley Compressor 0444-140

Magneto Rotor Remover Set 0444-254

Oil Filter Wrench 0644-389

Piston Pin Puller 0644-328

Seal Protector Tool 0444-852

Spanner Wrench 0444-153

Surface Plate 0644-016

Valve Clearance Adjuster 0444-255

V Blocks 0644-535

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

www.mymowerparts.com

3-3

3

Specifications (450)

Specifications subject to change without notice.

Specifications (1000)

Specifications subject to change without notice.

VALVES AND GUIDES

Valve Face Diameter (max) (intake)

(exhaust)

35.0 mm

30.5 mm

Valve/Tappet Clearance (cold engine) (intake)

(exhaust)

0.08-0.12 mm

0.15-0.20 mm

Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (max) (intake)

(exhaust)

0.1 mm

0.3 mm

Valve Guide Inside Diameter 5.000-5.012 mm

Valve Stem Outside Diameter (intake)

(exhaust)

4.975-4.990 mm

4.955-4.970 mm

Valve Stem Runout (max) 0.10 mm

Valve Margin (min) (intake) 1.1 mm

Valve Face/Seat Width (min) 0.99 mm

Valve Seat Angle 45° +30'

Valve Face Radial Runout (max) 0.15 mm

Valve Spring Free Length (min) 44.73 mm

Valve Spring Tension @ 32.5 mm (outer) 17.23 kg (37.98 lb)

CAMSHAFT AND CYLINDER HEAD

Cam Lobe Height (min) (intake)

(exhaust)

34.71 mm

34.48 mm

Camshaft Journal/Cylinder Head Clearance(max) 0.074 mm

Camshaft Journal Holder (right & center)

Inside Diameter (left)

22.01-22.04 mm

17.51-17.54 mm

Camshaft Journal Outside Diameter (left)

(right & center)

17.466-17.480 mm

21.966- 21.980 mm

Camshaft Runout (max) 0.03 mm

Rocker Arm Inside Diameter 10.00-10.15 mm

Rocker Arm Shaft Outside Diameter 9.972-9.987 mm

Cylinder Head/Cover Distortion (max) 0.05 mm

CYLINDER, PISTON, AND RINGS

Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.025-0.055 mm

Piston Diameter 8 mm from Skirt End 88.96-88.98 mm

Cylinder Bore 89.005-89.015 mm

Piston Ring Free End Gap (min) (1st)

(2nd)

8.0 mm

8.3 mm

Bore x Stroke 89.0 x 71.2 mm

Cylinder Trueness (max) 0.01 mm

Piston Ring End Gap - Installed (min) 0.38 mm

Piston Ring to Groove Clearance (max) (1st/2nd) 0.06 mm

Piston Ring Groove Width (1st)

(2nd)

(oil)

1.01-1.03 mm

1.21-1.23 mm

2.01-2.03 mm

Piston Ring Thickness (1st)

(2nd)

0.97-0.99 mm

1.17-1.19 mm

Piston Pin Bore (max) 20.008 mm

Piston Pin (min) 19.994 mm

CRANKSHAFT

Connecting Rod (small end inside diameter)(max) 20.021 mm

Connecting Rod (big end side-to-side) 0.7 mm

Connecting Rod (small end deflection) (max) 3.0 mm

Crankshaft (web-to-web) 60.8-60.9 mm

Crankshaft Runout (max) 0.03 mm

VALVES AND GUIDES

Valve Face Diameter (max) (intake)

(exhaust)

31.6 mm

27.9 mm

Valve/Tappet Clearance (cold engine) (intake)

(exhaust)

0.08-0.12 mm

0.13-0.17 mm

Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (max) 0.013 mm

Valve Guide/Valve Stem Deflection (max)

(wobble method)

0.35 mm

Valve Guide Inside Diameter 5.000-5.012 mm

Valve Stem Outside Diameter 4.972-4.987 mm

Valve Stem Runout (max) 0.1 mm

Valve Head Thickness (min) 2.3 mm

Valve Face/Seat Width (max) (intake)

(exhaust)

2.25 mm

2.60 mm

Valve Seat Angle 45° +15'/+30'

Valve Face Radial Runout (max) 0.2 mm

Valve Spring Free Length (min) 38.7 mm

Valve Spring Tension @ 31.5 mm 19.0 kg (42 lb)

CAMSHAFT AND CYLINDER HEAD

Cam Lobe Height (min) 33.53 mm

Camshaft Journal/Cylinder (max)

Head Clearance

0.04 mm

Camshaft Journal Holder (right & center)

Inside Diameter (left)

21.98-22.04 mm

17.48-17.53 mm

Camshaft Journal Outside (right & center)

Diameter (left)

21.96-21.98 mm

17.47-17.48 mm

Camshaft Runout (max) 0.05 mm

Rocker Arm Inside Diameter 12.000-12.018 mm

Rocker Arm Shaft Outside Diameter 11.97-11.98 mm

Cylinder Head/Cover Distortion (max) 0.05 mm

CYLINDER, PISTON, AND RINGS

Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance (max) 0.05 mm

Cylinder Bore 91.992-92.008 mm

Piston Diameter 15 mm from Skirt End 91.949-91.959 mm

Piston Ring End Gap (min) (1st/2nd) 12.5 mm

Bore x Stroke 92 x 71.5 mm

Cylinder Trueness (max) 0.075 mm

Piston Ring End Gap - Installed (max) 0.38 mm

Piston Ring to Groove Clearance (max) (1st)

(2nd)

0.034 mm

0.033 mm

Piston Ring Groove Width (1st/2nd)

(oil)

1.202-1.204 mm

2.501-2.503 mm

Piston Ring Thickness (1st/2nd) 1.170-1.195 mm

Piston Pin Bore (max) 20.012 mm

Piston Pin Outside Diameter (min) 19.995 mm

CRANKSHAFT

Connecting Rod (max)

(small end inside diameter)

20.021 mm

Connecting Rod (big end side-to-side) (max) 0.95 mm

Connecting Rod @ 150 mm (max)

(small end deflection)

0.3 mm

Crankshaft (web-to-web) (max) 98 mm

Crankshaft Runout (max) 0.03 mm

Oil Pump Gerotor Clearance (max) 0.15 mm

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

www.mymowerparts.com

3-4

Troubleshooting

Problem: Engine will not start or is hard to start (Compression too low)

Condition Remedy

1. Valve clearance out of adjustment

2. Valve guides worn

3. Valve timing incorrect

4. Piston rings worn excessively

5. Cylinder bore worn

6. Starter motor cranks too slowly - does not turn

1. Adjust clearance

2. Repair - replace guides

3. Replace cam chain/sprocket and retime engine

4. Replace rings

5. Replace cylinder

6. See Section 5 - Troubleshooting

Problem: Engine will not start or is hard to start (No spark)

Condition Remedy

1. Spark plug fouled

2. Spark plug wet

3. Magneto defective

4. ECU defective

5. Ignition coil defective

6. High-tension lead open - shorted

1. Clean - replace plug

2. Clean - dry plug

3. Replace stator coil

4. Replace ECU

5. Replace ignition coil

6. Replace high tension lead

Problem: Engine will not start or is hard to start (No fuel reaching the fuel injector)

Condition Remedy

1. Gas tank vent hose obstructed

2. Fuel hose obstructed

3. Fuel screens obstructed

4. Fuel pump defective

1. Clean vent hose

2. Clean - replace hose

3. Clean - replace inlet screen - valve screen

4. Replace fuel pump

Problem: Engine stalls easily

Condition Remedy

1. Spark plug fouled

2. Magneto defective

3. ECU defective

4. Fuel injector obstructed

5. Valve clearance out of adjustment

1. Clean plug

2. Replace magneto

3. Replace ECU

4. Replace fuel injector

5. Adjust clearance

Problem: Engine noisy (Excessive valve chatter)

Condition Remedy

1. Valve clearance too large

2. Valve spring(s) weak - broken

3. Rocker arm - rocker arm shaft worn

4. Camshaft worn

5. Valve tappets worn

1. Adjust clearance

2. Replace spring(s)

3. Replace arm - shaft

4. Replace camshaft

5. Replace tappets

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from piston)

Condition Remedy

1. Piston - cylinder worn

2. Combustion chamber carbon buildup

3. Piston pin - piston pin bore worn

4. Piston rings - ring groove(s) worn

1. Replace - service piston - cylinder

2. Clean cylinder head and piston

3. Replace - service pin - bore

4. Replace rings - piston

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from timing chain)

Condition Remedy

1. Chain stretched

2. Sprockets worn

3. Tension adjuster malfunctioning

1. Replace chain

2. Replace sprockets

3. Repair - replace adjuster

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from crankshaft)

Condition Remedy

1. Main bearing worn - burned

2. Lower rod-end bearing worn - burned

3. Connecting rod side clearance too large

1. Replace bearing

2. Replace crankshaft assembly

3. Replace crankshaft assembly

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from transmission)

Condition Remedy

1. Gears worn

2. Splines worn

3. Primary gears worn

4. Bearings worn

5. Bushing worn

1. Replace gears

2. Replace shaft(s)

3. Replace gears

4. Replace bearings

5. Replace bushing

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

www.mymowerparts.com

3-5

3

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from secondary bevel gear and final driven shaft)

Condition Remedy

1. Drive - driven bevel gears damaged - worn

2. Backlash incorrect

3. Tooth contact improper

4. Bearing damaged

5. Gears worn

6. Splines worn

1. Replace gears

2. Adjust backlash

3. Adjust contact

4. Replace bearing

5. Replace gears

6. Replace shaft(s)

Problem: Engine idles poorly

Condition Remedy

1. Valve clearance incorrect

2. Valve seating poor

3. Valve guides defective

4. Rocker arms - arm shaft worn

5. Magneto defective

6. ECU defective

7. Spark plug fouled - gap incorrect

8. Ignition coil defective

9. Fuel injector obstructed

1. Adjust clearance

2. Replace - service seats - valves

3. Replace guides

4. Replace arms - shafts

5. Replace stator coil

6. Replace ECU

7. Adjust gap - replace plug

8. Replace ignition coil

9. Replace fuel injector

Problem: Engine runs poorly at high speed

Condition Remedy

1. High RPM "cut out" against RPM limiter

2. Valve springs weak

3. Valve timing incorrect

4. Cams - rocker arms - tappets worn

5. Spark plug gap incorrect

6. Ignition coil defective

7. Fuel pump defective

8. Air cleaner element obstructed

9. Fuel hose obstructed

1. Shift into higher gear - decrease speed

2. Replace springs

3. Time valves

4. Replace cams - arms - tappets

5. Adjust gap

6. Replace ignition oil

7. Replace fuel pump

8. Clean element

9. Clean or replace hose

Problem: Exhaust smoke dirty or heavy

Condition Remedy

1. Engine oil overfilled - contaminated

2. Piston rings - cylinder worn

3. Valve guides worn

4. Cylinder wall scored

5. Valve stems worn

6. Stem seals defective

1. Drain excess oil - replace oil

2. Replace - service rings - cylinder

3. Replace guides

4. Replace - service cylinder

5. Replace valves

6. Replace seals

Problem: Engine lacks power

Condition Remedy

1. Valve clearance incorrect

2. Valve springs weak

3. Valve timing incorrect

4. Piston ring(s) - cylinder worn

5. Valve seating poor

6. Spark plug fouled

7. Rocker arms - shafts worn

8. Spark plug gap incorrect

9. Fuel injector obstructed

10. Cam chain worn

11. Air cleaner element obstructed

12. Engine oil overfilled - contaminated

13. Intake manifold leaking air

1. Adjust clearance

2. Replace springs

3. Re-time valve gear

4. Replace - service rings - cylinder

5. Repair seats

6. Clean - replace plug

7. Replace arms - shafts

8. Adjust gap - replace plug

9. Replace injector

10. Replace cam chain

11. Clean element

12. Drain excess oil - change oil

13. Tighten - replace manifold

Problem: Engine overheats

Condition Remedy

1. Carbon deposit (piston crown) excessive

2. Oil low

3. Octane low - gasoline poor

4. Oil pump defective

5. Oil circuit obstructed

6. Radiator hoses - cap damaged - obstructed

7. Intake manifold leaking air

8. Coolant level low

9. Fan malfunctioning

10. Fan relay malfunctioning

11. Thermostat stuck - closed

1. Clean piston

2. Add oil

3. Drain - replace gasoline

4. Replace pump

5. Clean circuit

6. Clear obstruction - replace hoses

7. Tighten - replace manifold

8. Fill - examine system for leaks

9. Check fan fuse - replace fan

10. Replace fan relay

11. Replace thermostat

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

www.mymowerparts.com

3-6

Table of Contents

(450)

Removing Engine/ Transmission............................. 3-6

Top-Side Components............................................. 3-8

Removing Top-Side Components ........................... 3-8

Servicing Top-Side Components........................... 3-11

Installing Top-Side Components ........................... 3-19

Left-Side Components .......................................... 3-22

Removing Left-Side Components ......................... 3-22

Servicing Left-Side Components .......................... 3-25

Installing Left-Side Components ........................... 3-27

Right-Side Components ........................................ 3-29

Removing Right-Side Components....................... 3-29

Servicing Right-Side Components ........................ 3-32

Installing Right-Side Components......................... 3-33

Center Crankcase Components............................ 3-36

Separating Crankcase Halves............................... 3-37

Disassembling Crankcase Half ............................. 3-37

Servicing Center Crankcase Components............ 3-39

Assembling Crankcase Half .................................. 3-44

Joining Crankcase Halves..................................... 3-46

Installing Engine/Transmission.............................. 3-47

Removing Engine/

Transmission

Many service procedures can be performed without

removing the engine/transmission from the frame.

Closely observe the note introducing each sub-section

for this important information.

Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

1. Remove the seat and tool tray; then disconnect the

negative battery cable.

2. Remove the left footwell, footrest, and footwell

support assembly; then drain the coolant into a

suitable container.

FI530A

3. From the left side, remove the gear position switch

connector (A) and the speed sensor connector (B).

FI525A

4. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.

5. Remove the storage compartment; then remove

the air inlet tube from air filter housing and throttle

body.

FI516A

6. Remove the air inlet and outlet ducts from the

CVT housing.

7. Loosen the clamp securing the air filter housing to

the front air inlet duct; then disconnect the coil

connector and remove the spark plug cap from the

spark plug.

AT THIS POINT

If the technician's objective is to service Top-Side Com-

ponents, Left-Side Components, or Right-Side Compo-

nents, the engine/transmission does not have to be

removed from the frame.

AT THIS POINT

If the technician's objecti ve is to service/replace mag-

neto cover oil seals or the oil strainer (from beneath the

engine/transmission), the engine/transmission does not

have to be removed from the frame.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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3-7

3

FI519A

8. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the

air filter housing and remove the air filter assem-

bly.

9. From the top side, remove the engine coolant tem-

perature (ECT) sensor connector (C), fuel injector

connector (D), manifold absolute pressure/inlet air

temperature (MAP/IAT) sensor connector (E), idle

step control (ISC) connector (F), and throttle posi-

tion sensor (TPS) connector (G).

FI522A

10. From the right side, disconnect the stator connec-

tor (H) and crankshaft position sensor connector

(I) from the main harness; then disconnect the pos-

itive cable from the starter motor and the engine

ground cable from the starter mounting flange.

FI523A

FI533A

11. Remove the screws securing throttle arm cover to

the throttle body; then loosen the throttle cable

jam-nut and remove the throttle cable.

FI536A

12. Remove the cap screws securing the exhaust pipe

to the cylinder head; then remove the springs

securing the muffler to the exhaust pipe.

13. Remove the muffler and exhaust pipe. Account for

a grafoil seal on each end of the exhaust pipe.

14. Remove coolant hoses (A) and (B) from the water

pump; then remove the upper coolant hose from

the thermostat housing.

FI530B

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3-8

FI537

15. Remove the four cap screws securing the rear

driveline to the output drive flange.

16. Support the engine and remove the two

through-bolts securing the engine assembly to the

frame; then move the engine rearward sufficiently

to disengage the front driveline and remove the

engine from the left side.

Top-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Top-Side

Components

A. Cylinder Head Cover/

Rocker Arms

B. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

NOTE: Remove the spark plug, timing inspection

plug, and outer magneto cover; then using an

appropriate wrench, rotate the crankshaft to

top-dead-center of the compression stroke.

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of new

gaskets, lock nuts, and seals and lubricating all

internal components when servicing the

engine/transmission.

1. Remove the cap screws securing the two tappet

covers. Remove the two tappet covers. Account

for the O-rings.

FI603

NOTE: Keep the mounting hardware with the cov-

ers for assembly purposes.

2. Remove the cylinder head cover cap screws. Note

the rubber washers on the four top-side cap

screws; remove the cylinder head cover. Note the

orientation of the cylinder head plug and remove

it. Note the location of the two alignment pins.

FI606A

MD1354A

3. Remove the cap screw from the tension adjuster;

then using a flat-blade screwdriver, relax the cam

chain tension by rotating the adjuster screw clock-

wise until it locks.

AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited dis-

assembly of components may be necessary. Note the

AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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3-9

3

FI607A

FI608

4. Bend the washer tabs and remove the two cap

screws securing the sprocket to the camshaft.

FI612

5. Using an awl, rotate the C-ring in its groove until

it is out of the cylinder head; then remove the

C-ring.

FI613

NOTE: Care should be taken not to drop the

C-ring down into the crankcase.

MD1131

6. Noting the timing marks for installing purposes,

drop the sprocket off the camshaft. While holding

the cam chain, slide the sprocket and camshaft out

of the cylinder head. Account for an alignment

pin.

NOTE: Loop the chain over the cylinder and

secure it to keep it from falling into the crankcase.

FI620

FI617A

7. Remove the cam chain tensioner pivot bolt and

remove the chain tensioner; then remove the two

nuts securing the cylinder head to the cylinder.

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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3-10

FI616

FI617

FI618A

FI619A

8. Remove the four cylinder head cap screws and

washers. Note that the two cap screws on the right

side of the cylinder head nearest the cam sprocket

are longer than the two cap screws on the left

(spark plug) side.

CD211

9. Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder,

remove the gasket, and account for two alignment

pins.

FI623A

10. Remove the cam chain guide.

FI621

C. Cylinder

D. Piston

NOTE: Steps 1-10 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

AT THIS POINT

To service valves and cylinder head, see Servicing

Top-Side Components sub-section.

AT THIS POINT

To inspect cam chain guide, see Servicing Top-Side

Components sub-section.

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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3-11

3

11. Remove the two nuts securing the right side of the

cylinder to the right-side crankcase half.

FI622A

12. Lift the cylinder off the crankcase taking care not

to allow the piston to drop against the crankcase.

Account for the gasket and two alignment pins.

FI624A

13. Using an awl, remove one piston-pin circlip. Take

care not to drop it into the crankcase.

FI625

14. Using Piston Pin Puller, remove the piston pin.

Account for the opposite-side circlip. Remove the

piston.

NOTE: It is advisable to remove the opposite-side

circlip prior to using the puller.

MD1219

NOTE: Support the connecting rod with rubber

bands to avoid damaging the rod or install a con-

necting rod holder.

Servicing Top-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

VALVE ASSEMBLY

When servicing valve assembly, inspect valve seats,

valve stems, valve faces, and valve stem ends for pits,

burn marks, or other signs of abnormal wear.

NOTE: Whenever a valve is out of tolerance, it

must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder Head

Cover

NOTE: If the cylinder head cover cannot be trued,

the cylinder head assembly must be replaced.

1. Wash the cylinder head cover in parts-cleaning

solvent.

AT THIS POINT

To service cylinder, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

CAUTION

When removing the cylinder, be sure to support the pis-

ton to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.

CAUTION

Do not allow the connecting rod to go down inside the

crankcase. If the rod is down inside the crankcase and

the crankshaft is rotated, severe damage will result.

AT THIS POINT

To service piston, see Servicing Top-Side Components

sub-section.

AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, proceed

to Removing Left-Side Components.

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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3-12

2. Place the cylinder head cover on the Surface Plate

covered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper.

Using light pressure, move the cylinder head cover

in a figure eight motion. Inspect the sealing sur-

face for any indication of high spots. A high spot

can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Correct

any high spots before assembly by continuing to

move the cylinder head cover in a figure eight

motion until a uniform bright metallic finish is

attained.

CC130D

Removing Valves

NOTE: Index all valves, springs, and cotters to

their original position when removing. When

installing, all valve components should be

installed in their original position.

1. Using a valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and remove the valve keepers.

Account for an upper spring retainer.

CC132D

2. Remove the valve seal and the lower remaining

spring seat. Discard the valve seal.

CC134D

CC136D

NOTE: The valve seals must be replaced.

3. Remove the valve springs; then invert the cylinder

head and remove the valves.

Measuring Valve Stem Runout

1. Support each valve stem end with the V Blocks;

then check the valve stem runout using a dial indi-

cator.

ATV-1082

2. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Stem Outside

Diameter

1. Using a micrometer, measure the valve stem out-

side diameter.

2. Acceptable diameter ranges must be within speci-

fications.

CAUTION

Do not remove an excessive amount of the sealing sur-

face or damage to the camshaft will result. Always

check camshaft clearance when resurfacing the cylin-

der head cover.

CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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3-13

3

Measuring Valve Face/Seat Width

1. Using a calipers, measure the width of the valve

face.

FI367

2. Acceptable width must be at or above specifica-

tions.

Measuring Valve Face Radial

Runout

1. Mount a dial indicator on the surface plate; then

place the valve stem on a set of V blocks.

2. Position the dial indicator contact point on the out-

side edge of the valve face; then zero the indicator.

ATV1082A

3. Rotate the valve in the V blocks.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide

(Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge 1/2 way down into each valve

guide bore; then remove the gauge and measure it

with a micrometer.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

3. If a valve guide is out of tolerance, the cylinder

head must be replaced.

Servicing Valves/Valve

Guides/Valve Seats

If valves, valve guides, or valve seats require servicing

or replacement, Arctic Cat recommends that the com-

ponents be taken to a qua lified machine shop for ser-

vicing.

Measuring Rocker Arm

(Inside Diameter)

1. Using a dial calipers, measure the inside diameter

of the rocker arm.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft

(Outside Diameter)

1. Using a micrometer, measure the outside diameter

of the rocker arm shaft.

2. Acceptable outside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Installing Valves

1. Apply grease to the inside surface of the valve

seals; then place a lower spring seat and valve

guide seal over each valve guide.

CC144D

2. Insert each valve into its original valve location.

3. Install the valve springs with the painted end of the

spring facing away from the cylinder head.

NOTE: If the paint is not visible, install the ends

of the springs with the closest wound coils toward

the head.

CAUTION

If valves are discolored or pitted or if the seating sur-

face is worn, the valve must be replaced. Do not attempt

to grind the valves or severe engine damage may occur.

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3-14

ATV-1011A

4. Place a spring retainer over the valve springs; then

using the valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and install the valve keepers.

CC132D

PISTON ASSEMBLY

NOTE: Whenever a piston, rings, or pin are out of

tolerance, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the top of the piston.

2. Inspect the piston for cracks in the piston pin,

boss, top, and skirt areas.

3. Inspect the piston for seizure marks or scuffing. If

piston is scored or galled, replace it with a new

one.

4. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of

"blowby" indicated by dark discoloration.

"Blowby" is caused by worn piston rings, exces-

sive carbon in ring grooves, or an out-of-round

cylinder.

Removing Piston Rings

1. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the ring

out of the ring-groove.

CC400D

2. Remove each ring by working it toward the top of

the piston while rotating it out of the groove.

NOTE: When installing new rings, install as a

complete set only.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston Ring

Grooves

1. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;

then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle

and to a sharp edge.

2. Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean carbon

from the ring grooves. Be sure to position the ring

with its tapered side up.

Measuring Piston-Ring End Gap

(Installed)

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion of the

cylinder. Use the piston to position each ring

squarely in the cylinder.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring

end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must not exceed

specifications.

CC995

CAUTION

Improper cleaning of the ring grooves by the use of the

wrong type of ring groove cleaner will result in severe

damage to the piston.

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3-15

3

Measuring Piston Pin, Connecting

Rod Small End, and Piston-Pin Bore

1. Measure the piston pin outside diameter at each

end and in the center. If measurement does not

meet specifications, the piston pin must be

replaced.

ATV-1070

2. Inspect and measure the connecting rod small end

inside diameter. If the measurement exceeds spec-

ifications, the connecting rod must be replaced

(see Center Crankcase Components in this sec-

tion).

3. Insert an inside dial indicator into the piston-pin

bore. Take two measurements to ensure accuracy.

The diameter must not exceed specifications. If the

diameter exceeds specifications, the piston must

be replaced.

ATV-1069

Measuring Piston Skirt/

Cylinder Clearance

1. Measure the cylinder front to back in six places.

CC127D

2. Measure the corresponding piston diameter at a

point 8 mm (0.3 in.) above the piston skirt at a

right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this

measurement from the measurement in step 1. The

difference (clearance) must be within specifica-

tions.

Installing Piston Rings

1. Install ring expander (4) in the bottom groove of

the piston; then install the thin oil rings (3) over

the expander making sure the expander ends do

not overlap. Stagger the end gaps of the upper and

lower thin oil rings according to the illustration.

NOTE: Note the direction of the exhaust side of

the piston (5) for correct ring end gap orientation.

ATV-1085B

2. Install the compression rings (1 and 2) so the let-

ter(s) on the top surface of each ring faces the

dome of the piston. Rotate the rings until the ring

end gaps are on directly opposite sides of the pis-

ton according to the illustration.

NOTE: The chrome (silver) ring should be

installed in the top position.

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MD1343A

CYLINDER/CYLINDER HEAD

ASSEMBLY

NOTE: If the cylinder/cylinder head assembly

cannot be trued, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder Head

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the combustion chamber

being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the

combustion chamber or the sealing surface.

2. Inspect the spark plug hole for any damaged

threads. Repair damaged threads using a

"heli-coil" insert.

3. Place the cylinder head on the surface plate cov-

ered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using

light pressure, move the cylinder head in a figure

eight motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any

indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted

by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der head in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

Measuring Cylinder Head

Distortion

1. Remove any carbon buildup in the combustion

chamber.

2. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head; then

using a feeler gauge, check the distortion factor

between the head and the straightedge.

3. Maximum distortion must not exceed specifica-

tions.

CC141D

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder

1. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

warpage, and corrosion. If marks are found, repair

the surface using a cylinder hone (see Honing Cyl-

inder in this sub-section).

3. Place the cylinder on the surface plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the cylinder in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright

metallic finish is attained.

CC129D

CAUTION

Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in

engine damage.

CAUTION

The cylinder head studs must be removed for this pro-

cedure.

CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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3

Inspecting Cam Chain Guide

1. Inspect cam chain guide for cuts, tears, breaks, or

chips.

2. If the chain guide is damaged, it must be replaced.

Honing Cylinder

1. Using a slide gauge and a dial indicator or a snap

gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter in three

locations from top to bottom and again from top to

bottom at 90° from the first measurements for a

total of six measurements. The trueness

(out-of-roundness) is the difference between the

highest and lowest reading. Maximum trueness

(out-of-roundness) must not exceed specifications.

CC127D

2. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

3. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-

face using a #320 grit ball hone.

NOTE: To produce the proper 60° cross-hatch

pattern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate

of 30 strokes per minute. If honing oil is not avail-

able, use a lightweight petroleum-based oil. Thor-

oughly clean cylinder after honing using soap and

hot water. Dry with compressed air; then immedi-

ately apply oil to the cylinder bore. If the bore is

severely damaged or gouged, replace the cylinder.

CC390D

4. If any measurement exceeds the limit, the cylinder

must be replaced.

Measuring Camshaft Runout

NOTE: If the camshaft is out of tolerance, it must

be replaced.

1. Place the camshaft on a set of V blocks; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the

shaft and zero the indicator.

CC283D

2. Rotate the camshaft and note runout; maximum

tolerance must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Camshaft Lobe Height

1. Using a calipers, measure each cam lobe height.

ATV1013A

2. The lobe heights must be greater than minimum

specifications.

Inspecting Camshaft Bearing

Journal

1. Inspect the bearing journal for scoring, seizure

marks, or pitting.

2. If excessive scoring, seizure marks, or pitting is

found, the cylinder head assembly must be

replaced.

Measuring Camshaft to

Cylinder Head Clearance

1. Loosen the jam nuts and adjuster screws.

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CC005D

2. Place a strip of plasti-gauge in each of the cam-

shaft lands in the cylinder head.

3. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head and

secure with the valve cover cap screws. Tighten

securely.

NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft when measur-

ing clearance.

4. Remove the cap screws securing the valve cover to

the cylinder; then remove the valve cover and

camshaft.

MD1261

5. Match the width of the plasti-gauge with the chart

found on the plasti-gauge packaging to determine

camshaft to cylinder head and valve cover clear-

ance.

CC145D

6. If clearance is excessive, measure the journals of

the camshaft.

CC287D

NOTE: If the journals are worn, replace the cam-

shaft; then measure the clearance again. If it is still

out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.

Inspecting Camshaft Spring/Drive

Pin

1. Inspect the spring and unloader pin for damage.

CF061A

NOTE: With the weight extended, the unloader

pin should be flat-side out; with the weight

retracted, the unloader pin should be round-side

out.

CF060A

2. If damaged, the camshaft must be replaced.

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3

Installing Top-Side

Components

A. Piston

B. Cylinder

1. Lubricate the piston pin, connecting rod, and pis-

ton pin bore with motor oil; then install the piston

on the connecting rod making sure there is a cir-

clip on each side.

FI626

NOTE: The piston should be installed so the IN

points towards the intake side.

2. Place the two alignment pins into position. Place a

new cylinder gasket into position; then place a pis-

ton holder (or suitable substitute) beneath the pis-

ton skirt and square the piston in respect to the

crankcase.

MD1344

3. Lubricate the inside wall of the cylinder; then

using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress

the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.

Route the cam chain up through the cylinder cam

chain housing; then remove the piston holder and

seat the cylinder firmly on the crankcase.

GZ142

4. Loosely install the two nuts securing the cylinder

to the right-side crankcase half.

NOTE: The two cylinder-to-crankcase nuts will be

tightened in step 9.

FI622A

C. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

D. Cylinder Head Cover/

Rocker Arms

NOTE: Steps 1-4 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

5. While keeping tension on the cam chain, place the

front cam chain guide into the cylinder.

CAUTION

The cylinder should slide on easily. Do not force the cyl-

inder or damage to the piston, rings, cylinder, or crank-

shaft assembly may occur.

CAUTION

Care should be taken that the bottom of the chain guide

is secured in the crankcase boss.

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FI621

6. Place a new gasket into position on the cylinder.

Place the alignment pins into position; then place

the head assembly into position on the cylinder

making sure the cam chain is routed through the

chain cavity.

MD1347

7. Install the four cylinder head cap screws with

washers. Note that the two cap screws on the right

side of the cylinder head nearest the cam sprocket

are longer than the two cap screws on the left

(spark plug) side. Tighten only until snug.

8. Install the two lower nuts securing the cylinder

head to the cylinder, one in front and one in rear.

9. In a crisscross pattern, tighten the four cylinder

head cap screws (from step 7) to 28 ft-lb. Tighten

the two lower cylinder head nuts (from step 8) to

20 ft-lb and the cylinder-to-crankcase nuts (from

step 4) to 8 ft-lb.

10. With the timing inspection plug removed and the

cam chain held tight, rotate the crankshaft until the

piston is at top-dead-center.

11. While holding the cam chain to the front, install

the rear cam chain tensioner guide into the cylin-

der head. Install the pivot cap screw and washer.

Tighten to 11 ft-lb.

CD383

12. With the alignment pin installed in the camshaft

and the cam lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton), place the camshaft in position and verify that

the timing mark on the magneto is visible through

the inspection plug and that the timing marks on

the camshaft sprocket are parallel with the valve

cover mating surface.

GZ190C

NOTE: When the camshaft assembly is seated,

make sure the alignment pin in the camshaft aligns

with the smallest hole in the sprocket.

13. With the alignment pin installed in the camshaft,

loosely place the cam sprocket (with the recessed

side facing the camshaft lobes) onto the camshaft

and place it into position with the cam chain over

the sprocket.

CD463

CAUTION

Keep tension on the cam chain to avoid damaging the

crankcase boss.

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3

MD1359

14. Place the C-ring into position in its groove in the

cylinder head.

FI615

NOTE: At this point, oil the camshaft bearings,

cam lobes, and the three seating journals on the

cylinder head.

NOTE: Note the position of the alignment marks

on the end of the camshaft. They must be parallel

with the valve cover mating surface. If rotating the

camshaft and sprocket is necessary for alignment,

do not allow the crankshaft to rotate and be sure

the cam lobes end up in the down position.

15. When the camshaft assembly is seated, ensure the

following.

A. Piston still at top-dead-center.

B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton).

C. Camshaft alignment marks parallel to the valve

cover mating surface.

D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward

the cam lobes.

E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment

hole (smallest) are aligned.

16. Place the tab washer onto the sprocket making

sure it covers the pin in the alignment hole.

MD1363

17. Apply red Loctite #271 to the first cap screw

securing the sprocket and tab washer to the cam-

shaft; then install the cap screw and tab washer.

Tighten cap screw only until snug.

CC404D

FI612

18. Rotate the crankshaft until the second cap screw

securing the sprocket to the camshaft can be

installed; then install the cap screw (threads coated

with red Loctite #271). Tighten to 11 ft-lb; then

bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

CAUTION

If any of the above factors are not as stated, go back to

step 13 and carefully proceed.

CAUTION

Care must be taken that the tab washer is installed cor-

rectly to cover the alignment hole on the sprocket. If the

alignment pin falls out, severe engine damage will

result.

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19. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cap screw

(from step 17) securing the sprocket to the cam-

shaft can be addressed; th en tighten to 11 ft-lb.

Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

20. Install the cylinder head plug with the cupped end

facing the camshaft and the opening directed

downwards.

21. Place the cam chain tensioner assembly and gasket

into the cylinder. Tighten to 10 ft-lb.

22. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, turn the tensioner

screw counterclockwise to apply tension to the

cam chain; then install the cap screw plug and

washer and tighten securely.

FI608

23. Loosen the adjuster screw jam nuts; then loosen

the adjuster screws on the rocker arms in the valve

cover.

24. Apply a thin coat of Three Bond Sealant to the

mating surface of the valve cover; then place the

valve cover into position. Note that the two align-

ment pins are properly positioned.

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

25. Install the four top-side cap screws with rubber

washers; then install the remaining cap screws.

Tighten only until snug.

MD1261

26. In a crisscross pattern starting from the center and

working outward, tighten the cap screws (from

step 25) to 8 ft-lb.

27. Adjust valve/tappet clearance (see Section 2).

28. Place the two tappet covers with O-rings into posi-

tion; then install and tighten the cap screws to 8

ft-lb.

FI602

29. Install the spark plug and tighten securely; then

install the timing inspection plug.

Left-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Left-Side

Components

A. Water Pump

B. Speed Sensor

C. Magneto Cover/

Stator Assembly

1. Remove the coolant hose connecting the water

pump to the cylinder; then remove the water pump

cover.

AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited dis-

assembly of components may be necessary. Note the

AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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3

FI538

2. Remove the water pump housing assembly noting

the location of the longer cap screw. Account for a

gasket and two alignment pins.

FI539

FI541

3. Remove two cap screws and the oil bolt securing

the oil pressure relief line to the engine. Account

for two crush washers and an O-ring.

FI544

4. Remove the water pump drive gear; then remove

the speed sensor housing assembly. Account for

two alignment pins, a gasket, and two seal wash-

ers.

FI543

5. Remove the cap screws securing the magneto

cover to the crankcase. Note the location of the two

internal cap screws and the two longer cap screws.

FI596A

6. Remove the magneto cover and account for two

alignment pins and the gasket.

D. Rotor/Flywheel

E. Starter Clutch/Gear

F. Starter Motor

NOTE: Steps 1-6 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

7. Remove the nut securing the rotor/flywheel on the

crankshaft and install the crankshaft protector.

FI549

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8. Using the Magneto Rotor Remover Set, break the

rotor/flywheel loose from the crankshaft; then

remove the puller and crankshaft protector and

remove the rotor/flywheel.

FI550

9. Remove the flywheel key from the crankshaft;

then remove the starter clutch gear.

FI551A

10. Remove starter idler gears and their respective

shafts; then remove the starter motor. Account for

an O-ring on the starter drive housing.

FI555

G. Shift Shaft

H. Drive Gear

NOTE: Steps 1-10 in the preceding sub-sections

must precede this procedure.

11. Remove the shift shaft noting a washer on each

end; then remove the cap screw securing the gear

shift cam plate and remove the plate from the shaft.

FI559

12. Remove the shift detent cam arm and spring.

FI560

13. Remove the snap ring securing the output drive

gear to the output shaft and remove the gear noting

that the hub flange is directed toward the crank-

case.

FI564

FI566

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3

Servicing Left-Side

Components

INSPECTING STARTER

CLUTCH/GEAR

1. Place the starter clutch gear onto the rotor/fly-

wheel and attempt to rotate the starter clutch gear

clockwise. It should lock up to the rotor/flywheel.

Rotate the gear counterclockwise and it should

turn freely. If it moves or locks up both ways, the

starter clutch must be replaced.

2. Inspect the starter clutch gear for chipped or miss-

ing teeth or discoloration/scoring of the clutch sur-

face. Inspect the bearing for loose, worn, or

discolored rollers. If bearing is damaged, it must

be replaced.

FI569

3. Inspect the one-way bearing for chipped surfaces,

missing rollers, or discoloration. If any of the

above conditions exist, replace the starter clutch

assembly.

FI572

REPLACING STARTER CLUTCH

ASSEMBLY

1. Remove the cap screws securing the one-way

clutch assembly to the flywheel; then remove from

the flywheel.

FI570

2. Thoroughly clean the roto r/flywheel; then install

the new one-way clutch and secure with the cap

screws after applying a drop of red Loctite #271 to

the threads. Tighten to 26 ft-lb using a crisscross

pattern. Make sure the one-way bearing is installed

with the notches directed away from the rotor/fly-

wheel.

FI576A

FI578

REPLACING STARTER GEAR

BEARING

1. Support the starter clutch gear in a press making

sure to support the hub around the entire circum-

ference; then using a suitable bearing driver, press

the bearing from the gear.

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FI583

2. Thoroughly clean the gear hub; then apply a drop

of green Loctite #620 to the bearing outer race and

press into the gear hub until even with the lower

chamfer radius.

FI580

INSPECTING STATOR/MAGNETO

COVER ASSEMBLY

1. Inspect the stator for burned or discolored wiring,

broken or missing hold-down clips, or loose cap

screws.

2. Inspect the bearings in the magneto housing for

discoloration, roughness when rotated, and secure

fit in bearing bores.

3. Inspect the oil pressure relief valve for evidence of

metal chips or contamination. Do not disassemble

the valve.

FI588

REPLACING STATOR COIL/

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

1. Remove the three cap screws securing the stator

coil, two cap screws securing the crankshaft posi-

tion sensor, and one cap screw from the harness

hold-down.

2. Lift the rubber grommet out of the housing; then

remove the stator coil/crankshaft position sensor.

Account for and note the position of the harness

hold-down under the crankshaft position sensor.

FI590

3. Install the new stator coil assembly and secure

with three cap screws using a drop of red Loctite

#271 on each. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

4. Place the stator wire harness hold-down into posi-

tion; then install the crankshaft position sensor and

secure with two cap screws. Tighten securely.

5. Install the upper cable hold-down and secure with

a cap screw. Tighten securely.

FI595A

REPLACING MAGNETO COVER

BEARINGS

1. Using a suitable press and proper support, press

the bearing from the housing as indicated (one

from outside and one from inside).

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3

FI593

FI594

2. Clean the bearing bores in the housing and inspect

closely for cracks or shiny areas indicating bearing

movement. Replace the housing if any of the

above are evident.

3. With a drop of red Loctite #271 around the bearing

bore, press a new bearing into the magneto cover

until the bearing is firmly seated in the bearing

bore.

Installing Left-Side

Components

A. Starter Clutch/Gear

B. Rotor/Flywheel

1. If removed, place the crankshaft bearing retainer

into position. Apply red Loctite #271 to the three

cap screws. Install and tighten the three cap screws

securely.

MD1122

2. Install the starter motor and tighten the two cap

screws securely.

3. Install the shift detent cam making sure the washer

is installed.

MD1086

4. Install the shift detent cam arm and spring.

5. Install the gear shift shaft assembly and washer

making sure to align the alignment marks.

FI559

6. Install starter idler gears (1) and (2).

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FI555A

7. Install the starter clutch gear onto the crankshaft;

then install the rotor/flywheel key in the crank-

shaft.

FI551A

8. Install the rotor/flywheel and secure with the nut.

Tighten to 107 ft-lb.

C. Magneto Cover

D. Water Pump

NOTE: Steps 1-8 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

9. Install two alignment pins and place the magneto

cover gasket into position. Install the magneto

cover. Noting the different-lengthed 6 mm cap

screws and the location of the two internal cap

screws, tighten cap screws in a crisscross pattern

to 8 ft-lb.

FI596A

10. Install the water pump drive gear and secure with

the nut. Tighten to 28 ft-lb.

FI547

11. Install two alignment pins and a gasket on the

magneto cover; then install the water pump hous-

ing assembly. Tighten the cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

FI541A

FI539

12. Install the water pump cover with a new O-ring

and secure with the four cap screws. Tighten to 8

ft-lb.

FI538

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3

13. Connect the coolant hoses to the water pump and

secure with the hose clamps. Tighten securely.

Right-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Right-Side

Components

A. V-Belt Cover

B. Driven Pulley

C. Clutch Cover

1. If the engine is still in the frame, remove the cap

screw securing the brake pedal to the pivot shaft.

Account for a flat washer.

KC149A

2. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt cover

to the clutch cover; then slide the brake pedal out-

ward and remove the V-belt cover. Account for

two alignment pins and a gasket.

KC142A

3. Mark the movable drive face and the fixed drive

face for installing purposes; then remove the nut

holding the movable drive face onto the crankshaft.

MD1033

4. Remove the movable drive face and spacer.

Account for the movable drive face rollers and

outer drive face cover.

MD1035

MD1034

AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, proceed

to Removing Right-Side Components.

AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited dis-

assembly of components may be necessary. Note the

AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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MD1036

5. Using a 6 mm cap screw threaded into the fixed

driven face, spread the driven pulley by turning the

cap screw clockwise; then remove the V-belt.

KC132

6. Remove the fixed drive face.

MD1094

7. Remove the nut holding the driven pulley assem-

bly; then remove the driven pulley assembly.

MD1068

8. Using an impact screwdriver, remove the three

Phillips-head cap screws holding the air intake

plate. Remove the air intake plate.

MD1092

9. Remove the cap screws holding the clutch cover

onto the right-side crankcase half. Note the posi-

tions of the different-lengthed cap screws for

installing purposes.

10. Using a rubber mallet, loosen the clutch cover;

then pull it away from the right-side crankcase

half. Account for two alignment pins and gasket.

MD1115

D. Centrifugal Clutch Assembly

E. Oil Pump Drive Gear

F. Oil Pump Driven Gear

NOTE: Steps 1-10 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

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3

11. Remove the one-way clut ch noting the direction of

the green dot or the word OUTSIDE for installing

purposes.

MD1286

12. Remove the left-hand threaded nut holding the

centrifugal clutch assembly.

MD1014

MD1016

13. Remove the cam chain.

FI630

14. Remove the oil pump drive gear cap screw.

MD1018

15. Remove oil pump drive gear. Account for the pin.

MD1017

16. Remove the snap ring holding the oil pump driven

gear.

MD1019

CAUTION

Care must be taken when removing the nut; it has

"left-hand" threads.

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NOTE: Always use a new snap ring when install-

ing the oil pump driven gear.

17. Remove oil pump driven gear. Account for the

drive pin and thrust washer.

MD1020

G. Oil Pump/Oil Strainer

NOTE: Steps 1-17 in the preceding sub-sections

must precede this procedure.

18. Remove three cap screws holding the oil pump

and remove the oil pump. Account for two align-

ment pins.

MD1060

19. Remove the four cap screws securing the oil

strainer cap; then remove the Phillips-head screws

securing the oil strainer. Account for the O-ring.

MD1337

MD1208

Servicing Right-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

INSPECTING CENTRIFUGAL

CLUTCH SHOE

1. Inspect the clutch shoe for uneven wear, chips,

cracks, or discoloration.

2. Inspect the depth of the grooves in the clutch

shoes. If any shoe is worn to the bottom of the

groove, replace the complete set.

AT THIS POINT

To service clutch components, see Servic ing Right-Side

Components sub-section.

AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, proceed

to Separating Crankcase Halves.

CAUTION

Always replace clutch shoes as a complete set or

severe imbalance could occur.

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3

ATV1014

INSPECTING CENTRIFUGAL

CLUTCH HOUSING

1. Inspect the clutch housing for burns, marks, scuffs,

cracks, scratches, or uneven wear.

2. If the housing is damaged in any way, the housing

must be replaced.

INSPECTING PRIMARY

ONE-WAY DRIVE

1. Place the one-way clutch onto the clutch shoe

assembly with the green dot or the word "OUT-

SIDE" directed away from the clutch shoe.

KC330

2. Place the clutch housing onto the clutch

shoe/one-way clutch.

NOTE: It will be necessary to rotate the clutch

housing counterclockwise to properly seat the

one-way clutch.

KC331A

3. Check that the clutch shoe can only be rotated

counterclockwise in respect to the clutch housing.

If the clutch shoe locks up or turns in both direc-

tions, the one-way clutch must be replaced.

KC332A

INSPECTING OIL PUMP

1. Inspect the pump for damage.

2. It is inadvisable to remove the screw securing the

pump halves. If the oil pump is damaged, it must

be replaced.

NOTE: The oil pump is a non-serviceable compo-

nent and must be replaced as a complete assem-

bly.

DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY

NOTE: The driven pulley assembly is a non-ser-

viceable component and must be replaced as a

complete assembly.

Installing Right-Side

Components

A. Oil Strainer/Oil Pump

1. Place the oil strainer into position beneath the

crankcase. Tighten the Phillips-head screws

securely.

MD1337

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2. Place the strainer cap into position on the crank-

case making sure the O-ring is properly installed

and secure with the four cap screws; then tighten

the oil drain plug to 16 ft-lb.

MD1208

3. Place two alignment pins and the oil pump into

position on the crankcase and secure with the Phil-

lips-head screws coated with red Loctite #271.

Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

MD1060

4. Place the thrust washer and drive pin into position

on the oil pump shaft, install the oil pump driven

gear making sure the recessed side of the gear is

directed inward, and secure with a new snap ring.

NOTE: Always use a new snap ring when install-

ing the oil pump driven gear.

MD1020

MD1019

5. Install the cam chain.

NOTE: Keep tension on the cam chain to avoid

damaging the crankcase boss.

6. Place the pin into position, install the oil pump

drive gear, and tighten the cap screw (coated with

red Loctite #271) to 63 ft-lb.

MD1017

MD1018

7. Install the clutch shoe assembly on the crankshaft;

then install the flange nut (left-hand thread)

(coated with red Loctite #271). Tighten to 147

ft-lb.

NOTE: The flat side of the flange nut should be

directed towards the clutch shoe.

CAUTION

Care must be taken when installing the flange nut; it has

"left-hand" threads.

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3

8. Install the one-way clutch making sure that the

green dot or the word OUTSIDE is directed away

from the crankcase.

MD1286

B. Clutch Cover

C. Fixed Drive Face

D. Movable Drive Face

NOTE: Steps 1-8 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

9. Install two alignment pins and place the clutch

cover gasket into position. Install the clutch cover.

MD1115

10. Tighten the clutch cover cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

MD1117

11. Install the air intake plate. Apply red Loctite #271

to the threads of the three Phillips-head cap

screws; then install and tighten securely.

MD1342

12. Place the driven pulley assembly into position and

secure with the nut (threads coated with red Loc-

tite #271). Tighten to 147 ft-lb.

MD1068

KC134

13. Slide the fixed drive face assembly onto the front

shaft.

14. Spread the faces of the driven pulley by threading

a V-belt cover cap screw into the fixed driven face

and tightening until the faces open sufficiently to

allow the V-belt to drop into the pulley approxi-

mately 3/4 in.

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KC137

NOTE: The arrows on the V-belt should point in

direction of engine rotation.

15. Making sure the movable drive face rollers are in

position, pinch the V-belt together near its center

and slide the spacer and movable drive face onto

the shaft.

KC127

16. Coat the threads of the nut with red Loctite #271;

then making sure the splines of the clutch shaft

protrude through the cover plate, secure with the

nut and tighten to 147 ft-lb.

KC138

KC141

NOTE: At this point, the cap screw can be

removed from the driven pulley face.

17. Rotate the V-belt and dr ive/driven assemblies until

the V-belt is flush with the top of the driven pulley.

18. Install two alignment pins and place a new V-belt

cover gasket into position on the clutch cover. In a

crisscross pattern, tighten cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

KC142A

Center Crankcase

Components

NOTE: This procedure cannot be done with the

engine/transmission in the frame. Complete

Removing procedures for Top-Side, Left-Side, and

Right-Side must precede this procedure.

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

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3

Separating Crankcase

Halves

1. Remove the left-side and right-side cap screws

securing the crankcase halves noting the position

of the different-sized cap screws for joining pur-

poses.

MD1006

MD1012

2. Using Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft Remover

and tapping lightly with a rubber mallet, separate

the crankcase halves. Account for two alignment

pins.

CC869

NOTE: To keep the shaft/gear assemblies intact

for identification, tap the shafts toward the

left-side crankcase half when separating the

halves.

MD1313

Disassembling

Crankcase Half

NOTE: To aid in installing, it is recommended that

the assemblies be kept together and in order.

NOTE: For steps 1-6, refer to illustration FI639A.

FI639A

1. Remove the secondary driven shaft assembly (A)

noting the location of the front and rear bearing

locating pins and the center bearing locating ring.

FI660A

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FI659A

FI661A

2. Remove the reverse idler assembly (B). Account

for and note the location of the inner bushing (1),

idler shaft (2), and outer washer (3).

FI641A

3. Remove the driveshaft (C); then pull the shift fork

locating shaft (D) out of the crankcase locating

boss and allow the shift forks to disengage from

the gear shift shaft (F).

FI646

FI653A

4. Remove the gear shift shaft (F) noting the inner

and outer washers.

FI650A

5. Remove the countershaft assembly (E) along with

the shift fork assembly.

FI662

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3

6. Remove the crank balancer driven gear (G) and

account for a key; then remove the crankshaft bal-

ancer shaft.

MD1024

7. Using Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft Remover

with the appropriate crankshaft protector, remove

the crankshaft.

MD1330

8. Remove the secondary drive gear/secondary

driven gear retaining nut. From inside the crank-

case using a rubber mallet, drive out the output

shaft assembly. Account for the output shaft, a

shim, a washer, and the nut.

Servicing Center

Crankcase Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

SECONDARY GEARS

NOTE: When checking and correcting secondary

gear backlash and tooth contact, the universal

joint must be secured to the front shaft or false

measurements will occur.

Checking Backlash

NOTE: The rear shaft and bevel gear must be

removed for this procedure. Also, always start with

the original shims on the rear shaft.

1. Place the left-side crankcase cover onto the

left-side crankcase half to prevent runout of the

secondary transmission output shaft.

2. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly

onto the crankcase.

3. Mount the indicator tip of the dial indicator on the

secondary driven bevel gear (centered on the gear

tooth).

4. While rocking the driven bevel gear back and

forth, note the maximum backlash reading on the

gauge.

5. Acceptable backlash range is 0.05-0.33 mm

(0.002-0.013 in.).

Correcting Backlash

NOTE: If backlash measurement is within the

acceptable range, no correction is necessary.

1. If backlash measurement is less than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

new thinner shim.

2. If backlash measurement is more than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

thicker shim.

NOTE: Continue to remove, measure, and install

until backlash measurement is within tolerance.

Note the following chart.

Checking Tooth Contact

NOTE: After correcting backlash of the second-

ary driven bevel gear, it is necessary to check

tooth contact.

1. Remove the secondary driven output shaft assem-

bly from the left-side crankcase half.

CAUTION

Do not remove the remaining output shaft assembly

unless absolutely necessary. If the shaft is removed, the

shaft nut must be replaced with a new one and the shaft

must be re-shimmed.

AT THIS POINT

To service crankshaft assembly, see Servicing Center

Crankcase Components sub-section.

Backlash Measurement Shim Correction

Under 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) Decrease Shim

Thickness

At 0.05-0.33 mm

(0.002-0.013 in.)

No Correction Required

Over 0.33 mm (0.013 in.) Increase Shim

Thickness

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3-40

2. Clean the secondary driven bevel gear teeth of old

oil and grease residue.

3. Apply a thin, even coat of a machinist-layout dye

to several teeth of the gear.

4. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly.

5. Rotate the secondary driven bevel gear several

revolutions in both directions.

6. Examine the tooth contact pattern in the dye and

compare the pattern to the illustrations.

ATV-0103

ATV-0105

ATV-0104

Correcting Tooth Contact

NOTE: If tooth contact pattern is comparable to

the correct pattern illustration, no correction is

necessary.

If tooth contact pattern is comparable to an incorrect

pattern, correct tooth contact according to the follow-

ing chart.

NOTE: To correct tooth contact, steps 1 and 2

(with NOTE) of "Correcting Backlash" must be fol-

lowed and the above "Tooth Contact/Shim Correc-

tion" chart must be consulted.

CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

NOTE: The crankshaft and connecting rod is a

non-serviceable assembly. If any component is

out of specification, the assembly must be

replaced.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge into the upper connecting rod

small end bore; then remove the gauge and mea-

sure it with micrometer.

CC290D

2. Maximum diameter must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Deflection)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V-blocks and

mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against

the center of the connecting rod small end journal.

2. Zero the indicator and push the small end of the

connecting rod away from the dial indicator.

3. Maximum deflection must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Tooth Contact Shim Correction

Contacts at Top Decrease Shim Thickness

Contacts at Root Increase Shim Thickness

CAUTION

After correcting tooth contact, backlash must again be

checked and corrected (if necessary). Continue the cor-

recting backlash/correcting tooth contact procedures

until they are both within tolerance values.

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3

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Side-to-Side)

1. Push the lower end of the connecting rod to one

side of the crankshaft journal.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the

connecting rod and crankshaft journal.

CC289D

3. Acceptable gap range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Crankshaft (Runout)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact at point 1 of

the crankshaft.

ATV-1074

3. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

NOTE: Proceed to check runout on the other end

of the crankshaft by positioning the indicator con-

tact at point 2 and following steps 3-4.

Measuring Crankshaft

(Web-to-Web)

1. Using a calipers, measure the distance from the

outside edge of one web to the outside edge of the

other web.

ATV-1017

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

COUNTERSHAFT

Disassembling

1. Remove the reverse driven gear dog; then remove

the circlip securing the reverse driven gear.

FI663

CAUTION

Care should be taken to support the connecting rod

when rotating the crankshaft.

CAUTION

When disassembling the countershaft, care must be

taken to note the direction each major component (dog,

gear) faces. If a major component is installed facing the

wrong direction, transmission damage may occur

and/or the transmission will malfunction. In either case,

complete disassembly and assembly will be required.

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FI664

2. Remove the splined washer; then remove the

reverse driven gear along with the bearing and

bushing.

FI665

3. Remove the low driven gear washer; then remove

the low driven gear along with the bearing and

bushing.

FI666

FI667

4. Remove the splined washer; then remove the cir-

clip securing the high-low sliding dog. Remove

the sliding dog.

FI668

FI669

5. Remove the circlip securing the high driven gear;

then remove a washer, the high driven gear along

with the bearing and bushing, and remove the high

driven washer.

FI670

FI671

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3

ASSEMBLING

1. With the high driven washer (1) on the counter-

shaft, install the high driven gear bushing (3),

bearings (2), and gear (4) on the countershaft; then

install the washers (5) and secure with the

snap-ring.

FI671A

FI670

2. Install the high/low shift dog (6) on the counter-

shaft and secure with snap-ring (7); then install the

splined washer (8).

FI668A

3. Install the low driven bushing (10), bearing (9),

and gear (11) on the countershaft; then install

splined washer (12).

FI667A

FI666

4. Place the reverse driven bushing (13) onto the

shaft; then install the bearing (14), gear (15), and

splined washer (16). Secure with a snap-ring.

FI665A

FI664

5. Install the reverse dog on the shaft; then place the

shift forks and shift shaft into position.

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FI663

FI662

NOTE: The countershaft assembly is now ready

to be installed.

Assembling Crankcase

Half

NOTE: For ease of assembly, install components

on the right-side crankcase half.

NOTE: If the output shaft was removed, make

sure that the proper shim is installed.

1. Install the output shaft into the crankcase making

sure the two gears, shim, washer, and nut are in the

correct order.

MD1199

MD1079

2. Install and tighten the output shaft flange nut to 59

ft-lb. Using a punch, peen the nut.

MD1333

3. Apply a liberal amount of oil to the crankshaft

bearing. Using a propane torch, heat the bearing

until the oil begins to smoke; then slide the crank-

shaft assembly into place.

MD1334

NOTE: If heating the bearing is not possible, the

crankshaft can be installed using a crankshaft

installer.

4. Rotate the crankshaft so the counterweight is

toward the rear of the engine. Install the crank bal-

ancer shaft.

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3

MD1024

5. Install the key in the crank balancer shaft; then

install the gear and aligning the timing marks,

slide the gear into place.

FI658

6. Align the shift cam fork slots with the shift fork

shaft locating boss and with a washer on each end,

install in the crankcase.

FI652A

7. Place the shift forks into position on the assembled

countershaft and install into the crankshaft as an

assembly.

FI662

FI653

8. Align the shift forks to allow engagement with the

shift cam; then engage the shift forks and slide the

shift fork shaft into the locating boss in the crankcase.

FI653A

FI655A

9. Install the input driveshaft.

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FI646

10. Install the spacer (1), shaft (2), reverse idler gear,

and washer (3).

FI641A

FI645

11. Install the secondary output driveshaft assembly

into the crankcase half making sure the front and

rear bearing alignment pins are seated in the

recesses; then install the center carrier bearing

alignment C-ring.

FI660A

FI659A

FI661A

Joining Crankcase

Halves

1. Verify that the two alignment pins (A) are in place

and that both case halves are clean and grease free.

Apply Three Bond Sealant to the mating surfaces.

Place the right-side half onto the left-side half.

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3

FI639B

NOTE: Be sure to apply sealant to the inside

radius of all cap screw locations and the entire

surface of the internal cap screw bosses.

FI639C

2. Using a plastic mallet, lightly tap the case halves

together until cap screws can be installed.

3. From the right side, install the crankcase cap

screws noting the location of the different-sized

cap screws; then tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs while tightening the

cap screws.

MD1008

4. From the left side, install the remaining crankcase

cap screws; then tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs while tightening the

cap screws.

CC871

5. In a crisscross pattern, tighten the 8 mm cap

screws until the halves are correctly joined; then

tighten to 21 ft-lb.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

6. In a crisscross pattern, tighten the 6 mm cap

screws to 10 ft-lb.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

Installing

Engine/Transmission

1. From the left side, place the engine into the frame

(rear of engine first) tilting the rear up to allow

cylinder head to clear frame.

2. With engine moved rearward, engage the splines

of the front driveline into the front output drive

yoke; then move into position and install the two

through-bolts. Secure with lock nuts and tighten to

35 ft-lb.

3. Install the four cap screws securing the rear driveline

to the output drive flange and tighten to 20 ft-lb.

4. Connect coolant hoses (A) and (B) to the water

pump and connect the upper coolant hose to the

thermostat housing. Tighten all clamps securely.

AT THIS POINT

After completing center crankcase components, pro-

ceed to Installing Right-Side Components, to Installing

Left-Side Components, and to Installing Top-Side Com-

ponents.

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FI530B

FI537

5. Install the exhaust pipe using a new seal at the cyl-

inder head and loosely install the retaining cap

screws; then install the muffler with a new grafoil

seal and secure with two springs. Tighten the

exhaust pipe retainer cap screws to 20 ft-lb.

6. Connect the throttle cable and adjust free-play to

specifications (see Section 4); then tighten the

jam-nut securely and insta ll the cover. Tighten the

screws securely.

7. Connect the stator connector (H) and crankshaft

position sensor connector (I) to the main harness;

then connect the positive cable to the starter motor

and tighten securely.

FI534A

8. Connect the engine ground cable to the starter

mounting flange and secure with a cap screw tight-

ened to 8 ft-lb.

9. From the top side, install the ECT sensor connec-

tor (C), fuel injector connector (D), MAP/IAT sen-

sor connector (E), ISC connector (F), and the TPS

connector (G).

FI522A

10. Place the air filter assembly into position and con-

nect the crankcase breather securing with the

clamp; then connect the front air inlet duct and

secure with a hose clamp.

11. Install the harness connector onto the coil and

install the spark plug cap.

12. Connect the air ducts to the CVT housing and

tighten the clamps securely; then connect the air

duct to the air filter housing and the throttle body

and secure with the clamps.

13. Install the storage compartment and connect the

negative battery cable; then install the tool tray.

14. Pour the specified amount of coolant into the radi-

ator and the specified amount and grade of oil into

the engine.

15. Install the left footwell support assembly, footwell,

and footrest. Tighten all fasteners securely.

16. Install the seat making sure it locks securely in

place; then start the engine and allow to warm up

while checking for leaks.

17. Shut engine off and inspect coolant and oil levels.

Add fluids as required.

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3

Table of Contents (1000)

Removing Engine/ Transmission........................... 3-49

Top-Side Components........................................... 3-53

Removing Top-Side Components ......................... 3-53

Servicing Top-Side Components........................... 3-57

Installing Top-Side Components ........................... 3-64

Left-Side Components .......................................... 3-71

Removing Left-Side Components ......................... 3-71

Installing Left-Side Components ........................... 3-73

Right-Side Components ........................................ 3-76

Removing Right-Side Components....................... 3-76

Servicing Right-Side Components ........................ 3-78

Installing Right-Side Components......................... 3-78

Center Crankcase Components............................ 3-80

Separating Crankcase Halves............................... 3-81

Disassembling Crankcase Half ............................. 3-82

Servicing Center Crankcase Components............ 3-83

Assembling Crankcase Half .................................. 3-91

Joining Crankcase Halves..................................... 3-93

Installing Engine/Transmission.............................. 3-94

Removing Engine/

Transmission

Many service procedures can be performed without

removing the engine/transmission from the frame.

Closely observe the note introducing each sub-section for

this important information.

Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the wheels.

1. Remove the seat and tool tray; then remove the nega-

tive battery cable.

2. Remove the front rack, gauge pod, footwells and

footrests; then remove the front body panel (see Sec-

tion 8).

3. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector; then loosen the

clamp securing the inlet air boot to the throttle body

and remove the air filter housing assembly.

GZ013

GZ091A

4. Using an absorbent towel, clean any spilled gasoline;

then press the gasline hose connectors and remove

from the fuel rails.

GZ124

5. Disconnect the TPS connector (A), MAP sensor con-

nector (B), and ISC valve connector (C) from the

throttle body; then route the harness and connectors

away from the engine.

AT THIS POINT

If the technician's objective is to service front Top-Side

Components, Left-Side Components, or Right-Side

Components, the engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame.

AT THIS POINT

If the technician's objective is to service/replace the oil

strainer (from beneath the engine/transmission), the

engine/transmission does not have to be removed from

the frame.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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GZ094A

NOTE: Using a suitable marker, mark the locations

of any ties that are removed to relocate wiring out of

the way.

6. Loosen the clamps securing the throttle body to the

intake manifolds; then remove the throttle body and

leaving the throttle cable connected, lay the assem-

bly over the handlebar.

GZ090B

7. Disconnect the fuel injector wiring connectors; then

remove the intake manifolds leaving the injectors

installed.

GZ106

GZ107

8. Disconnect the stator coil connector and the crankshaft

position sensor connector; then disconnect the gear posi-

tion switch connector from the gear position switch.

GZ069A

GZ493A

9. Loosen the clamps securing the V-belt cooling ducts

to the V-belt housing; then disconnect the cooling

ducts.

GZ037

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GZ103B

10. Remove the E-clips securing the shift linkage to the

shift lever and shift shaft; then remove the shift link-

age. Account for two bushings and two flat washers.

11. Remove the cap screws securing the rear driveshaft

yoke flange to the rear output flange.

GZ374

12. Remove the exhaust pipe springs at the muffler and

remove the muffler. Account for the grafoil seal.

GZ372

13. Remove the nuts securing the rear exhaust pipe to the

cylinder; then remove the springs securing the rear

exhaust pipe to the front exhaust pipe and remove the

rear exhaust pipe. Account for a grafoil seal on the

pipe juncture and a seal in the cylinder.

GZ099A

14. Remove the front and rear spark plug wires from the

spark plugs; then disconnect the primary wire con-

nectors from the coils and remove the coils from the

left side of the frame.

GZ071A

15. Remove the cap screw securing the engine and har-

ness grounds to the engine.

GZ064A

16. Remove the cap screws securing the upper bumper

support to the frame and swing the bumper forward

allowing access to the radiator drain plug.

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GZ068

17. Place a suitable drain pan under the radiator; then

remove the radiator drain plug. Do not loosen the

radiator cap at this time.

GZ086A

18. Remove the bleed screw from the water pump; then

after coolant has drained, apply compressed air to the

bleed opening to purge the remaining coolant from

the system. Install the bleed screw and radiator drain

plug and tighten securely.

GZ009A

19. Remove the coolant hoses from the upper engine

coolant outlet pipes; then remove the lower coolant

hose from the water pump.

GZ028

GZ369A

GZ008

20. Remove the flange nuts from the front and rear

engine through-bolts; then rock the engine slightly to

relieve engine mount pressure and remove the

through-bolts.

GZ118

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when using compressed

air.

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GZ104

21. Rotate the front driveshaft until the output yoke uni-

versal joint is in the vertical plane; then raise the

front of the engine/transmission until the front drive

splines disengage from the differential.

GZ 110A

GZ117A

22. Fold the front drive line up and secure against the front

of the engine; then lift the engine clear of the mount-

ings and remove from the right side of the frame.

GZ123

Top-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove and

disassemble only those components which need to

be addressed and to service only those components.

The technician should use discretion and sound

judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission must be removed

to service the rear cylinder head, cylinder, and piston.

Removing Top-Side

Components

A. Valve Cover/Rocker Arms

B. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

1. Remove the timing inspection plug, spark plugs, and

magneto housing cover; then install the 10 mm cap

screw (left-hand threads) in the crankshaft and rotate

the desired cylinder to top-dead-center of the com-

pression stroke.

GZ027

GZ026

AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited dis-

assembly of components may be necessary. Note the

AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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NOTE: Timing marks on the rotor/flywheel are

stamped with an "F" (front cylinder) and "R" (rear cyl-

inder) adjacent to the mark.

GZ063

GZ059

2. Remove the tappet covers on the cylinder being ser-

viced. The tappets should not have pressure on them.

3. Remove the cap screws securing the valve cover to

the head; account for the four rubber washers on the

top side cap screws. Remove the valve cover.

Account for and note the or ientation of the camshaft

plug. Note the location of two alignment pins.

GZ126A

GZ162

GZ132A

4. Remove the cap screw on the end of the tensioner;

then using a flat-blade screwdriver, turn the tensioner

clockwise to remove the tension. Remove the two

cap screws securing the tensioner adjuster assembly

and remove the assembly. Account for a gasket.

GZ405

5. Using an awl, rotate the C-ring in its groove until it is

out of the cylinder head; then remove the C-ring.

NOTE: Care should be taken not to drop the C-ring

into the crankcase.

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GZ155

6. Bend the washer tabs down and remove the two cap

screws securing the sprocket to the camshaft; then

drop the sprocket off the camshaft.

GZ154A

7. While holding the chain, slide the sprocket and cam-

shaft out of the cylinder head.

CC266D

NOTE: Loop the chain over the cylinder head and

secure it to keep it from falling into the crankcase.

8. Remove the five nuts securing the cylinder head to

the cylinder; then remove the four cylinder head cap

screws and washers.

NOTE: Removing the starter will simplify removal of

the front cylinder base nuts.

GZ136A

GZ132B

9. Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder, remove

the gasket, and account for two alignment pins; then

remove the cam chain guide.

GZ151

GZ161

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10. If the remaining cylinder head is to be serviced,

apply tension to the loose timing chain and rotate the

second cylinder to top-dead-center of the compres-

sion stroke; then repeat steps 2-9 on the other cylin-

der head.

C. Cylinders

D. Pistons

NOTE: Steps 1-10 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

11. Remove the cap screws securing the water hose

union to the cylinder; then remove the union from

the cylinder. Account for an O-ring.

GZ140A

12. Remove the two nuts securing the cylinder to the

crankcase.

GZ141A

GZ160A

13. Lift the cylinder off the crankcase taking care not to

allow the piston to drop against the crankcase.

Account for the gasket and two alignment pins.

GZ142

GZ144

14. Using an awl, remove one piston-pin circlip.

AT THIS POINT

To service valves and cylinder head, see Servicing

Top-Side Components sub-section.

AT THIS POINT

To inspect cam chain guide, see Servicing Top-Side

Components sub-section.

AT THIS POINT

To service cylinder, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

CAUTION

When removing the cylinder, be sure to support the pis-

ton to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.

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GZ145

15. Using the Piston Pin Puller, remove the piston pin.

Account for the opposite-side circlip. Remove the

piston.

NOTE: It is advisable to remove the opposite-side

circlip prior to using the puller.

NOTE: Support the connecting rod with rubber

bands or a piece of hose to avoid damaging the rod

or install the Connecting Rod Holder.

GZ146A

NOTE: If the existing ri ngs will not be replaced with

new rings, note the location of each ring for proper

installation. When replacing with new rings, replace

as a complete set only. If the piston rings must be

removed, remove them in this sequence.

A. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the ring

out of the ring-groove.

B. Remove each ring by working it toward the dome

of the piston while rotating it out of the groove.

Servicing Top-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, cracked,

or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.

VALVE ASSEMBLY

When servicing valve assembly, inspect valve seats,

valve stems, valve faces, and valve stem ends for pits,

burn marks, or other signs of abnormal wear.

NOTE: Whenever a valve is out of tolerance, it must

be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Valve Cover

NOTE: If the valve cover cannot be trued, the cylin-

der head assembly must be replaced.

1. Wash the valve cover in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Place the valve cover on the Surface Plate covered with

#400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light pressure,

move the valve cover in a figure eight motion. Inspect

the sealing surface for any indication of high spots. A

high spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish. Cor-

rect any high spots before assembly by continuing to

move the valve cover in a figure eight motion until a

uniform bright metallic finish is attained.

CC130D

CAUTION

Do not allow the connecting rod to go down inside the

crankcase. If the rod is down inside the crankcase and

the crankshaft is rotated, severe damage will result.

AT THIS POINT

To service piston, see Servicing Top-Side Components

sub-section.

AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, proceed

to Removing Left-Side Components.

CAUTION

Do not remove an excessive amount of the sealing sur-

face or damage to the camshaft will result. Always

check camshaft clearance when resurfacing the valve

cover.

CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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Removing Valves

NOTE: Index all valves, springs, and cotters to their

original position when removing. When installing, all

valve components should be installed in their original

position.

1. Using a valve spring compressor, compress the valve

springs and remove the valve cotters. Account for an

upper spring retainer.

CC132D

2. Remove the valve seal and the lower remaining

spring seat. Discard the valve seal.

CC136D

NOTE: The valve seals must be replaced.

3. Remove the valve springs; then invert the cylinder

head and remove the valves.

Measuring Valve Stem Runout

1. Support each valve stem end with the V Blocks; then

check the valve stem runout using a dial indicator.

ATV-1082

2. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Stem Outside

Diameter

1. Using a micrometer, measure the valve stem outside

diameter.

2. Acceptable diameter range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Valve Face/Seat Width

1. Using a micrometer, measure the width of the valve

face.

ATV-1004

2. Acceptable width (intake valve) must not exceed

specifications.

3. Acceptable width (exhaust valve) must not exceed

specifciations.

Measuring Valve Face Radial Runout

1. Mount a dial indicator on the surface plate; then

place the valve stem on a set of V blocks.

2. Position the dial indicator contact point on the out-

side edge of the valve face; then zero the indicator.

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3

ATV1082A

3. Rotate the valve in the V blocks.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide/Valve Stem

Deflection (Wobble Method)

1. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface plate;

then place the cylinder head on the surface plate.

2. Install the valve into the cylinder head; then position

the dial indicator contact point against the outside

edge of the valve face. Zero the indicator.

CC131D

3. Push the valve from side to side; then from top to

bottom.

4. Maximum "wobble" deflection must not exceed

specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide

(Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge 1/2 way down into each valve

guide bore; then remove the gauge and measure it

with a micrometer.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

3. If a valve guide is out of tolerance, it must be

replaced.

Servicing Valves/Valve Guides/Valve

Seats

If valves, valve guides, or valve seats require servicing or

replacement, Arctic Cat recommends that the compo-

nents be taken to a qualified machine shop for servicing.

Measuring Rocker Arm

(Inside Diameter)

1. Using a dial calipers, measure the inside diameter of

the rocker arm.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft

(Outside Diameter)

1. Using a micrometer, measure the outside diameter of

the rocker arm shaft.

2. Acceptable outside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Installing Valves

1. Apply grease to the inside surface of the valve seals;

then place a lower spring seat and valve guide seal

over each valve guide.

CC144D

2. Insert each valve into its original location.

3. Install the valve springs with the painted end of the

spring facing away from the cylinder head.

NOTE: If the paint is not visible, install the ends of

the springs with the closest wound coils toward the

head.

CAUTION

If valves are discolored or pitted or if the seating sur-

face is worn, the valve must be replaced. Do not attempt

to grind the valves or severe engine damage may occur.

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ATV-1011A

4. Place a spring retainer over the valve springs; then

using the valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and install the valve cotters.

PISTON ASSEMBLY

NOTE: Whenever a piston, rings, or pin are out of

tolerance, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the dome of the piston.

2. Inspect the piston for cracks in the piston pin, dome,

and skirt areas.

3. Inspect the piston for seizure marks or scuffing.

Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and

water or honing oil.

NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep to

correct with the sandpaper, replace the piston.

4. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of

excessive "blowby." Excessive "blowby" indicates

worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.

Removing Piston Rings

1. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the ring

out of the ring-groove.

CC400D

2. Remove each ring by working it toward the dome of

the piston while rotating it out of the groove.

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced with

new ones, note the location of each ring for proper

installation. When installing new rings, install as a

complete set only.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston Rings

1. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;

then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle and

to a sharp edge.

2. Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean carbon from

the ring-grooves. Be sure to position the ring with its

tapered side up.

Measuring Piston-Ring End Gap

(Installed)

1. Place each compression ring in the wear portion of

the cylinder. Use the piston to position each ring

squarely in the cylinder.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring end

gap. Acceptable ring end gap must not exceed speci-

fications.

CC280D

Measuring Piston Pin (Outside

Diameter) and Piston-Pin Bore

1. Measure the piston pin outside diameter at each end

and in the center. If measurement exceeds specifica-

tions, the piston pin must be replaced.

CAUTION

Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of the

wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in severe

damage to the piston.

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3

ATV-1070

2. Insert an inside dial indicator into the piston-pin

bore. The diameter must not exceed specifications.

Take two measurements to ensure accuracy.

ATV-1069

Measuring Piston Skirt/Cylinder

Clearance

1. Measure the cylinder front to back in six places.

CC127D

2. Measure the corresponding piston diameter at a point

15 mm (0.6 in.) above the piston skirt at a right angle

to the piston-pin bore. Su btract this measurement

from the measurement in step 1. The difference

(clearance) must not exceed specifications.

Installing Piston Rings

1. Install the expander spring making sure the ends are

aligned on the wire; then install the oil ring with the

ring gap 90° from the spring gap and the marking "E

TOP" directed toward the top of the piston.

GZ168

GZ169A

2. Install the second compression ring with the marking

"E TOP" directed toward the top of the piston.

GZ167

3. Install the first (unmarked) compression ring; then

rotate the rings so the ring gaps are approximately

180° apart and oriented to the piston pin.

GZ187A

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CYLINDER/CYLINDER HEAD

ASSEMBLY

NOTE: If the cylinder/cylinder head cannot be trued,

they must be replaced as an assembly.

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder Head

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the combustion chamber

being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the com-

bustion chamber or the sealing surface.

2. Inspect the spark plug hole for any damaged threads.

Repair damaged threads using a "heli-coil" insert.

3. Place the cylinder head on the surface plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the cylinder head in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indication

of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a bright

metallic finish. Correct any high spots before assem-

bly by continuing to move the cylinder head in a fig-

ure eight motion until a uniform bright metallic

finish is attained.

Measuring Cylinder Head Distortion

1. Remove any carbon buildup in the combustion

chamber.

2. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head; then

using a feeler gauge, check the distortion factor

between the head and the straightedge.

3. Maximum distortion must not exceed specifications.

CC141D

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder

1. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

warpage, and corrosion. If marks are found, repair

the surface using a cylinder hone (see Inspecting

Cylinder in this sub-section).

3. Place the cylinder on the surface plate covered with

#400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light pressure,

move the cylinder in a figure eight motion. Inspect

the sealing surface for any indication of high spots.

A high spot can be noted by a bright metallic finish.

Correct any high spots before assembly by continu-

ing to move the cylinder in a figure eight motion

until a uniform bright metallic finish is attained.

CC129D

Inspecting Cam Chain Guide

1. Inspect cam chain guide for cuts, tears, breaks, or

chips.

2. If the chain guide is damaged, it must be replaced.

Inspecting Cylinder

1. Using a slide gauge and a dial indicator or a snap

gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter in three

locations from top to bottom and again from top to

bottom at 90° from the first measurements for a total

of six measurements. The trueness (out-of-round-

ness) is the difference between the highest and low-

est reading. Maximum trueness (out-of-roundness)

must be within specifications.

CAUTION

Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in

engine damage.

CAUTION

The cylinder head studs must be removed for this pro-

cedure.

CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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CC127D

2. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

3. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing, and

corrosion. If marks are found, repair the surface

using a #320 grit ball hone.

NOTE: To produce the proper 60° cross-hatch pat-

tern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate of 30

strokes per minute. If honing oil is not available, use

a lightweight petroleum-based oil. Thoroughly clean

cylinder after honing using soap and hot water. Dry

with compressed air; then immediately apply oil to

the cylinder bore. If the bore is severely damaged or

gouged, replace the cylinder.

CC390D

4. If any measurement exceeds the limit, replace the

cylinder and piston.

Measuring Camshaft Runout

NOTE: If the camshaft is out of tolerance, it must be

replaced.

1. Place the camshaft on a set of V blocks; then position

the dial indicator contact point against the shaft and

zero the indicator.

CC283D

2. Rotate the camshaft and note runout; maximum

runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Camshaft Lobe Height

1. Using a calipers, measure each cam lobe height.

ATV1013A

2. The lobe heights must be greater than minimum

specifications.

Inspecting Camshaft Bearing

Journal

1. Inspect the bearing journal for scoring, seizure

marks, or pitting.

2. If excessive scoring, seizure marks, or pitting is

found, the cylinder head assembly must be replaced.

Measuring Camshaft to

Cylinder Head Clearance

1. Remove the adjuster screws and jam nuts.

CC005D

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2. Place a strip of plasti-gauge in each of the camshaft

lands in the cylinder head.

3. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head and secure

with the valve cover cap screws. Tighten securely.

NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft when measuring

clearance.

4. Remove the cap screws securing the valve cover to

the cylinder; then remove the valve cover and cam-

shaft.

5. Match the width of the pl asti-gauge with the chart

found on the plasti-gauge packaging to determine

camshaft to cylinder head and valve cover clearance.

CC145D

6. If clearance is excessive, measure the journals of the

camshaft.

CC287D

NOTE: If the journals are worn, replace the cam-

shaft; then measure the clearance again. If it is still

out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.

Inspecting Camshaft Spring/Drive

Pin (Front Camshaft Only)

1. Inspect the spring and drive pin for damage.

CF061A

CF060A

2. If damaged, the camshaft must be replaced.

Installing Top-Side

Components

A. Pistons

B. Cylinders

1. Install the piston on the connecting rod making sure

the circlip on each side is fully seated in the piston.

NOTE: The piston should be installed so the arrow

points toward the exhaust of the respective cylinder.

GZ166

2. Place the two alignment pins into position. Place the

cylinder gasket into position; then place a piston

holder (or suitable substitute) beneath the piston skirt

and square the piston in respect to the crankcase.

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3

GZ159

3. Lubricate the inside wall of the cylinder; then using a

ring compressor, compress the rings and slide the

cylinder over the piston. Route the cam chain up

through the cylinder cam chain housing; then remove

the piston holder and seat the cylinder firmly on the

crankcase.

GZ142

4. Loosely install the two nuts securing the cylinder to

the crankcase.

NOTE: The two cylinder-to-crankcase nuts will be

tightened in step 10.

GZ141A

GZ160A

5. Install the coolant hose onto the crankcase union and

tighten the clamp.

C. Cylinder Head

D. Valve Cover

NOTE: Steps 1-5 in the preceding sub-section must

precede this procedure.

6. Place the chain guide into the cylinder.

GZ161A

7. Place a new head gasket into position on the cylinder.

Place the alignment pins into position; then place the

head assembly into positi on on the cylinder while

guiding the cam chain through the cylinder head.

GZ151

8. Apply a light coat of grease to the cylinder head cap

screw threads and washers; then install the cap screws.

CAUTION

The cylinder should slide on easily. Do not force the cyl-

inder or damage to the piston, rings, cylinder, or crank-

shaft assembly may occur. CAUTION

Care should be taken that the bottom of the chain guide

is secured in the crankcase boss.

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GZ132B

9. Loosely install the five cylinder head nuts.

10. In a crisscross pattern, tig hten the four cylinder head

cap screws (from step 8) initally to 20 ft-lb; then

increase to 30 ft-lb, and finally to 37 ft-lb. Tighten

the 8 mm nut (from step 9) to 18 ft-lb; then using a

crisscross pattern, tighten the 6 mm nuts (from step

9) to 8 ft-lb. Tighten the two cylinder-to-crankcase

nuts (from step 4) securely.

NOTE: If both cylinders have been removed, repeat

steps 1-10 for the remaining cylinder.

11. With the timing inspection plug removed and the

chains held tight, rotate the crankshaft until the front

piston is at top-dead-center.

12. With the alignment pin installed in the camshaft,

loosely place the cam sprocket (with the recessed side

facing the cam shaft lobes) onto the camshaft. At this

point, do not "seat" the sprocket onto the shaft.

732-307B

GZ130

NOTE: At this point, oil the camshaft bearings, cam

lobes, and the three seating journals on the cylinder.

13. With the cam lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton), maneuver the camshaft/sprocket assembly

through the chain and towards its seating position;

then loop the chain over the sprocket.

NOTE: Note the position of the alignment marks on

the end of the camshaft. They must be parallel with

the valve cover mating surface. If rotating the cam-

shaft and sproket is necessary for alignment, do not

allow the crankshaft to rotate and be sure the cam

lobes end up in the down position.

GZ190C

14. Seat the cam sprocket onto the camshaft making sure

the alignment pin in the camshaft aligns with the

smallest hole in the sprocket; then place the cam-

shaft/sprocket assembly onto the cylinder ensuring

the following.

GZ190B

A. Piston still at top-dead-center.

B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton).

C. Camshaft alignment marks parallel to the valve

cover mating surface.

D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward the

cam lobes.

E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment

hole (smallest) are aligned.

CAUTION

If any of the above factors are not as stated, go back to

step 11 and carefully proceed.

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3

15. Place the tab-washer onto the sprocket making sure it

covers the pin in the alignment hole.

ATV1027

16. Install the first cap screw (threads coated with red

Loctite #271) securing the sprocket and tab-washer

to the camshaft. Tighten only until snug.

GZ195

17. Keeping tension on the opposite cam chain, rotate

the crankshaft until the second cap screw securing

the sprocket to the camshaft can be installed; then

install the cap screw (threads coated with red Loctite

#271) and tighten to 10 ft-lb. Bend the tab to secure

the cap screw.

GZ193

18. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cap screw (from

step 16) can be tightened; then tighten to 10 ft-lb.

Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

19. Keeping tension on the rear cam chain, rotate the

engine forward 270° until rear piston is at TDC indi-

cated by timing mark R.

GZ060

20. With the cam lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton), maneuver the camshaft/sprocket assembly

through the chain and towards its seating position;

then loop the chain over the sprocket.

NOTE: Note the position of the alignment marks on

the end of the camshaft. They must be parallel with

the valve cover mating surface. If rotating the cam-

shaft and sproket is necessary for alignment, do not

allow the crankshaft to rotate and be sure the cam

lobes end up in the down position.

GZ190C

CAUTION

Care must be taken that the tab-washer is installed cor-

rectly to cover the alignment hole on the sprocket. If the

alignment pin falls out, severe engine damage will result.

CAUTION

Failure to keep tension on any loose cam chain may

cause severe engine damage.

AT THIS POINT

Return the engine to TDC on the front cylinder making

sure the cam lobes are directed downward to ensure

correct starting point for step 19.

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GZ190B

21. Seat the cam sprocket onto the camshaft making sure

the alignment pin in the camshaft aligns with the

smallest hole in the sprocket; then place the cam-

shaft/sprocket assembly onto the cylinder ensuring

the following.

732-307B

A. Piston still at top-dead-center.

B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton).

C. Camshaft alignment marks offset 5° from the

valve cover mating surface.

D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward the

cam lobes.

E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment

hole (smallest) are aligned.

22. Place tab-washer onto the sprocket making sure it

covers the pin in the alignment hole.

ATV-1027

23. Install the first cap screw (threads coated with red

Loctite #271) securing the sprocket and tab-washer

to the camshaft. Tighten only until snug.

GZ195

24. Rotate the crankshaft until the second cap screw

securing the sprocket to the camshaft can be

installed; then install the cap screw (threads coated

with red Loctite #271) and tighten to 10 ft-lb. Bend

the tab to secure the cap screw.

GZ193

CAUTION

If any of the above factors are not as stated go back to

step 19 and carefully proceed.

CAUTION

Care must be taken that the tab-washer is installed cor-

rectly to cover the alignment hole on the sprocket. If the

alignment pin falls out, severe engine damage will

result.

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3

CD465

25. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cap screw (from

step 23) can be addressed; then tighten to 10 ft-lb.

Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

GZ194

26. Place the C-rings into position in their grooves in the

cylinder heads.

CC012D

27. Install the cylinder head plugs in the cylinder heads

with the open end facing downward and toward the

inside.

CD468

28. Remove the cap screw from the end of the chain ten-

sioner; then using a flat-blade screwdriver, rotate the

adjuster screw inside the tensioner clockwise until

the screw bottoms.

CD501

NOTE: The adjuster shaft will be drawn into the ten-

sioner as the adjuster screw is rotated clockwise. The

adjuster shaft tension will be released in step 30.

29. Place the chain tensioner adjuster assembly and gas-

ket into position on the cylinder and secure with the

two cap screws.

CD469

30. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, rotate the adjuster

screw inside the tensioner counterclockwise until all

tension is released; then install the cap screw into the

end of the chain tensioner.

CAUTION

The open end of the plug must be positioned downward.

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GZ201

CD471

31. Loosen the four adjuster screw jam nuts; then loosen

the four adjuster screws on the rocker arms in the

valve cover.

GZ199

32. Apply a thin coat of Three Bond Sealant to the mat-

ing surfaces of the cylinder heads.

GZ202

33. Lubricate the camshaft journals and lobes with

engine oil; then place the valve cover into position.

GZ206

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

34. Install the top side cap screws with rubber washers;

then install the remaining cap screws. Tighten only

until snug.

CC003D

35. In a crisscross pattern starting from the center and

working outward, tighten the cap screws on both

valve covers securely.

36. Adjust valve/tappet clearance (see Section 2).

37. Place the tappet covers into position making sure the

O-rings are properly installed. Tighten the cap

screws securely.

GZ208

38. If removed, install the spark plugs. Tighten securely.

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3

Left-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove and

disassemble only those components which need to

be addressed and to service only those components.

The technician should use discretion and sound

judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Left-Side

Components

A. Magneto Cover/Stator Coils

B. Water Pump

C. Shifter Assembly

D. Rotor/Flywheel/Starter Clutch

E. Speed Sensor/Trigger Assembly

1. Remove the cap screws securing the magneto cover

to the crankcase; then remove the magneto cover.

Account for the gasket.

GZ212A

2. Remove the starter motor, starter driven gear (A),

starter countershaft bushing (B), and starter counter-

shaft gear (C); then remove the starter gear shafts (D)

noting that the longer shaft is nearest the starter.

GZ224A

NOTE: The starter is not serviceable and must be

replaced as a complete assembly.

3. Remove the rotor/flywheel nut; then install the

appropriate crankshaft protector into the crankshaft.

PR440

4. Install Magneto Rotor Remover Set and loosen the

rotor/flywheel; then remove the crankshaft protector

and rotor/flywheel from the crankshaft. Account for

the flywheel key.

GZ216

NOTE: The puller has left-hand threads.

AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited dis-

assembly of components may be necessary. Note the

AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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GZ217

5. With the flywheel key removed, remove the starter

ring-gear and spacer washer.

GZ226

GZ249

6. Remove the hose clamps from the water pump; then

remove the coolant hoses from the water pump out-

lets and coolant pipes.

GZ218

7. Remove the two cap screws securing the water pump

to the crankcase; then remove the water pump.

Account for an O-ring.

GZ230A

NOTE: The water pump is a non-serviceable compo-

nent and must be replaced as a complete assembly.

8. Remove the cap screws securing the gear shift cover

to the crankcase; then remove the gear shift cover.

Account for a gasket and washer.

NOTE: Inspect the inside of the left-side cover for

any shaft washers that may have come off with the

cover. Make sure they are returned to their respective

shafts.

GZ231A

GZ233A

9. Remove the nut (A) from the shift cam stopper bolt

(B); then remove the cam stopper spring (C).

Account for a flat washer (D).

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3

GZ236A

10. Remove the cap screw securing the shift cam plate to

the shift cam shaft and remove the shift cam plate;

then remove the shift shaft. Account for a washer.

GZ234B

11. Remove the cap screws securing the speed sensor

housing to the crankcase and remove the housing

assembly; then remove the snap ring securing the

speed sensor trigger to the shaft and remove the trig-

ger. Account for a gasket.

NOTE: It may be necessary to use a small two-jaw

puller to remove the trigger.

GZ243

GZ235

12. Remove the cap screws securing the oil filler cover

to the crankcase; then remove the cover. Account for

an O-ring.

GZ250

Installing Left-Side

Components

1. Thoroughly clean all gasket material and sealant

from mating surfaces.

2. Install a new O-ring on the oil filler cover and coat it

with clean engine oil; then install the oil filler cover

into the crankcase and secure with the cap screws.

Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ250

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3. Clean the countershaft and trigger splines throughly

and install the inner snap ring onto the shaft; then

apply green Loctite #620 to the trigger and counter-

shaft splines and install the trigger. Secure with a flat

washer and outer snap ring.

GZ253

GZ254

4. Using a new gasket, install the speed sensor housing

onto the crankcase and secu re with two cap screws.

Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ232

5. If removed, install the shift cam stopper on the sup-

port; then with the flat washer in place, install the

shift cam stopper assembly into the crankcase and

tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ255

GZ256

6. Install the shift cam stopper spring onto the shift cam

stopper and secure with a fl at washer and flange nut.

Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ259

7. Install the shift cam plate onto the shift cam shaft and

secure with the cap screw. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ260

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3

8. Install the shift shaft into the crankcase making sure

the washers are properly located; then align the tim-

ing reference marks and completely seat the shift

shaft.

GZ258

GZ261

9. Apply grease to the lips of the shift shaft seal in the

shifter housing; then using a new gasket, install the

shifter housing and secure with the cap screws.

Tighten in a crisscross pattern to 8 ft-lb.

GZ262

10. Install the spacer washer on the crankshaft; then

install the starter ring gear.

GZ249

GZ226

11. Place the key into the keyway in the crankshaft; then

wipe all oil from the crankshaft surface and rotor/fly-

wheel bore and install the rotor/flywheel onto the

crankshaft aligning the keyway with the key. Secure

with the nut and tighten to 107 ft-lb.

GZ225

12. Install the starter driven and counter gear shafts (D)

into the crankcase (longer shaft to the front); then

install the starter countershaft gear (C), starter driven

gear (A), and bushing (B) making sure the cham-

fered gear teeth on the countershaft gear are directed

outward.

CAUTION

Make sure the one-way starter clutch is properly

engaged with the starter ring gear before installing and

tightening the rotor/flywheel nut or damage to the

clutch assembly could occur.

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GZ224A

13. Install the starter motor with a new O-ring lightly

lubricated with grease; then tighten the mounting cap

screws to 8 ft-lb.

GZ251

14. Place the seal protector into the end of the crank-

shaft; then install the magneto cover using a new

gasket and secure with the cap screws. Using the pat-

tern shown, tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ212B

Right-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove and

disassemble only those components which need to be

addressed and to service only those components. The

technician should use discretion and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Right-Side

Components

A. V-Belt Cover

B. Driven Pulley

C. Clutch Cover

D. Centrifugal Clutch

1. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt cover;

then using a rubber mallet, gently tap on the cover

tabs to loosen the cover. Account for a gasket and

two alignment pins.

GZ244B

2. Remove the nut securing the movable drive face;

then remove the face. Account for a spacer and a flat

washer.

GZ074

AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited dis-

assembly of components may be necessary. Note the

AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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3

CD966A

3. Remove the V-belt.

4. Remove the nut securing the fixed driven assembly;

then remove the assembly.

PR388

5. Remove the fixed drive face.

6. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt housing

to the crankcase; then remove the V-belt housing.

Account for two alignment pins.

GZ246A

7. Remove the cap screws securing the clutch cover;

then using a rubber mallet, carefully remove the

cover. Account for two alignment pins.

GZ246B

GZ247A

NOTE: To aid in installing, it is recommended that

the assemblies are kept together and IN ORDER.

8. Remove the one-way clutch from the centrifugal

clutch. Note the location of the green dot (or the

word OUTSIDE) for installing purposes.

GZ247B

9. Using a hydraulic press, remove the clutch housing

assembly from the clutch cover. Account for the left

fixed drive spacer and an O-ring inside the fixed

drive spacer.

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CF085

CC596

NOTE: Account for and inspect the clutch housing

seal.

10. Remove the nut (left-hand threads) securing the

clutch shoe assembly.

GZ248A

Servicing Right-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any wa y, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

INSPECTING CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH

SHOE

1. Inspect the clutch shoes for uneven wear, chips,

cracks, or discoloration. If any shoe is damaged,

replace the complete set.

2. Inspect the clutch shoes for wear or damage. If any

shoe is worn to the bottom of the groove, replace the

complete set.

ATV1014

INSPECTING CLUTCH HOUSING

1. Inspect the clutch housing for burns, grooving,

cracks, or uneven wear.

2. If the housing is damaged in any way, the housing

must be replaced.

INSPECTING PRIMARY

ONE-WAY DRIVE

1. Insert the drive into the clutch housing.

2. Rotate the inner race by hand and verify the inner

race rotates only one direction.

3. If the inner race is locked in place or rotates both

directions, the drive assembly must be replaced.

DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY

NOTE: The driven pulley is a non-serviceable com-

ponent. If the pulley faces, cam ramps, or sheeve

bushing are worn or loose, the pulley must be

replaced as an assembly. Do not disassemble the

driven pulley.

Installing Right-Side

Components

1. Install the clutch shoe assembly and secure with the

flange nut (threads coated with red Loctite #271).

Tighten to 221 ft-lb.

CAUTION

Always replace the clutch shoes as a complete set or

severe imbalance could occur.

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3

GZ241

2. Install the clutch cover al ignment pins into the crank-

case, apply oil to the cover gasket, and install the

gasket onto the crankcase.

3. Apply grease to the outer edges of the clutch hous-

ing; then from inside the clutch cover, install the

clutch housing into the cover.

4. Lightly grease the clutch housing seal; then insert the

left fixed drive spacer.

CF088A

5. Install the one-way clutch onto the clutch shoe

assembly.

GZ247

6. Place the clutch cover/clutch housing assembly into

position on the crankcase; then secure with the cap

screws. Tighten in a crisscross pattern to 8 ft-lb.

GZ246B

7. Making sure the alignment pins are correctly

installed, place a bead of silicone sealant on the mat-

ing surfaces and install the V-belt housing. Secure

with the cap screws tightened to 8 ft-lb.

GZ263B

GZ244A

8. Place the driven pulley assembly into position and

secure with the nut (coated with red Loctite #271).

Tighten to 80 ft-lb.

CAUTION

When installed correctly, the green alignment dot (or the

word OUTSIDE) on the one-way clutch is visible.

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GZ066

9. Slide the fixed drive face onto the clutch shaft.

10. Spread the faces of the driven pulley by threading in

a cap screw; then when the faces are separated, insert

the belt and push down between the faces.

GZ065A

11. Place the V-belt into position on the driven pulley

and over the front shaft.

GZ085

NOTE: The arrows on the V-belt should point for-

ward.

12. Pinch the V-belt together near its center and slide the

spacer and movable drive face onto the shaft. Secure

the drive face with a flat washer and a nut (threads

coated with red Loctite #271). Tighten the nut to 165

ft-lb.

GZ075

PR386

NOTE: At this point, the cap screw can be removed

from between the driven pulley faces.

13. Rotate the V-belt and drive/driven assemblies until

the V-belt is flush with the top of the driven pulley.

14. Place the V-belt cover gasket into position; then

install the cover and secure with the cap screws.

Tighten the cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

Center Crankcase

Components

NOTE: This procedure cannot be done with the

engine/transmission in the frame. Complete Remov-

ing procedures for Top-Side, Left-Side, and

Right-Side must precede this procedure.

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove and

disassemble only those components which need to

be addressed and to service only those components.

The technician should use discretion and sound

judgment.

CAUTION

Make sure the splines extend beyond the drive face and

washer or a false torque reading and spline damage

may occur.

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3

Separating Crankcase

Halves

1. Remove the oil strainer cap; then remove the oil

strainer.

GZ445

GZ446

2. Remove the cap screws securing the lower crankcase

to the upper crankcase halves; then using a rubber

hammer, free the lower crankcase and remove.

Account for two alignment pins.

GZ447

3. Remove the secondary drive assembly; then remove

the secondary driven shaft assembly and set aside.

Account for one locating ring.

GZ448A

GZ269A

NOTE: Do not disassemble these assemblies

unless service is required. If disassembled, second-

ary gear sets will have to be reset for backlash and

gear contact (see Servicing Center Crankcase Com-

ponents in this section).

4. Remove one cap screw from the right-side crankcase

and eight cap screws from the left-side crankcase;

then using a rubber mallet, separate the crankcase

halves leaving all components in the right-side case.

Account for a thrust washer on the crankshaft and

flat washers on gear shift shaft, countershaft, and

reverse idler. Note the location of two alignment

pins.

GZ454A

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GZ272B

Disassembling Crankcase

Half

NOTE: For steps 1-8, refer to illustration GZ474A.

GZ474A

NOTE: To aid in installing, it is recommended that

the assemblies are kept together and IN ORDER.

1. Support the right-side crankcase assembly on suit-

able support blocks; then carefully remove the crank-

shaft assembly (A) from the crankcase.

GZ298

2. Remove the snap ring securing the water pump drive

idler (B) to the idler shaft; then remove the drive

idler.

GZ299A

3. Remove the snap ring securing the water pump idler

shaft (C) in the crankcase; then remove the shaft and

bearings.

GZ463A

4. Remove the snap ring securing the oil pump driven

gear (D) to the oil pump driveshaft; then remove the

gear. Account for a drive pin and washer.

GZ463B

5. Remove the shift fork shaft (E); then remove the gear

shift shaft assembly (F). Account for a washer and a

spacer.

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3

DE677A

GZ276

6. Remove two cap screws securing the oil pump in the

crankcase and remove the oil pump.

GZ305

7. Remove the driveshaft (G); then remove the counter-

shaft assembly (with shift forks) (H). Account for

two flat washers on the countershaft.

GZ280B

8. Remove the reverse idler gear (I), shaft bushing, and

two washers.

GZ279

NOTE: Do not disassemble the countershaft assem-

bly unless necessary. If necessary, see Servicing

Center Crankcase Components sub-section.

Servicing Center

Crankcase Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

SECONDARY OUTPUT DRIVE GEARS

Initial Set-Up

NOTE: If the secondary output driven shaft is

replaced or disassembled, the initial set-up must be

performed to establish correct gear tooth contact. If

only the secondary output driveshaft or secondary

output driven gear are replaced, proceed to Correct-

ing Backlash in this sub-section.

1. Install a new bearing (A) onto the secondary driven

shaft (B) making sure the bearing locating groove is

directed away from the driven gear splines.

MT011A

2. Using a suitable press, install the driven gear (C) on

the shaft until the gear firmly seats on the shoulder of

the shaft.

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MT011B

3. If installing the existing shaft, start with the shims

removed during disassembly or if installing a new

shaft, start with approximately 1.0 mm shims at point

(D); then install the output driveshaft bearing (E)

making sure the locating pin is directed toward the

center of the shaft.

MT012

MT008A

4. Install a new seal (F), output yoke (G), and nut (H)

and tighten to 74 ft-lb.

MT008B

NOTE: Do not use a new lock nut at this time as this

procedure may have to be repeated.

5. Place the assembled shaft into the left crankshaft

case; then lightly coat the gear teeth with machinist's

lay-out dye. Rotate the shafts through several rota-

tions in both directions. Gear contact should extend

from the root to the top of the gear teeth.

MT016A

6. To adjust tooth contact, use the following chart to

correctly shim the driven shaft.

7. After correct tooth contact is established, proceed to

Checking Backlash in this sub-section.

Checking Backlash

1. Install the drive bevel gear assembly and driven

bevel gear/output shaft assembly into the crankcase

bottom cover.

2. Mount the dial indicator so the tip is contacting a

tooth on the secondary drive bevel gear.

Tooth Contact Shim Correction

Contact at Top Increase Shim Thickness

Contact at Root Decrease Shim Thickness

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3

GZ396

3. Firmly hold the bearings down and while rocking the

drive bevel gear back and forth, note the maximum

backlash reading on the gauge.

GZ398

4. Acceptable backlash range is 0.127-0.381 mm

(0.005-0.015 in.).

Correcting Backlash

NOTE: If backlash measurement is within the

acceptable range, no correction is necessary.

1. If backlash measurement is less than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

new thinner shim.

GZ393A

2. If backlash measurement is more than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

thicker shim.

NOTE: Continue to remo ve, measure, and install

until backlash measurement is within tolerance. Note

the following chart.

3. Once correct gear pattern and backlash are estab-

lished, install a new lock nut on the output shaft yoke

and tighten to 59 ft-lb. Peen the lock nut to the shaft.

MT007A

4. Using an appropriate holding fixture and wrench

adapter, install the seco ndary drive gear nut and

tighten to 74 ft-lb. The output drive assembly is now

ready for installation.

GZ393B

OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY

Disassembling and Inspecting

1. Remove the oil pump cover; then remove the gerotor

set, shaft, and pin (see Disassembling Crankcase

Half in this section).

2. Inspect the crankcase for scoring, discoloration, or

cracks in the gerotor bore. If scored, crankcase

assembly must be replaced.

Backlash Measurement Shim Correction

Under 0.127 mm (0.005 in.) Decrease Shim Thickness

At 0.127-0.381 mm (0.005-0.015 in.) No Correction Required

Over 0.381 mm (0.015 in.) Increase Shim Thickness

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GZ357

3. Inspect the gerotor set for scoring, discoloration, or

cracks; then using a feeler gauge, check the inner to

outer rotor clearance. If measurements exceed speci-

fications, the gerotor set must be replaced.

GZ355

4. Inspect the oil pump cover for scoring, discoloration,

or cracks. Replace if damaged.

GZ358

5. Inspect the oil pump driveshaft and drive pin for

excessive wear or grooving. Replace as required.

GZ354A

6. Remove the oil seal from the oil pump cover.

GZ365

Assembling

1. Install a new oil seal into the oil pump cover; then

coat the lips of the seal with grease and install the

pump driveshaft from the seal side.

GZ359

2. Noting the reference dots on the gerotor set, separate

the inner rotor from the outer rotor and with the ref-

erence dot directed toward the oil pump cover, place

the rotor on the shaft; then install the drive pin and

push the shaft into the rotor.

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3

GZ356

GZ363

3. With the outer rotor reference dot directed toward the

oil pump cover, install the rotor onto the inner rotor.

GZ360

4. Place a new O-ring seal on the outside of the oil

pump cover. The oil pump assembly is now ready for

assembly into the crankcase.

GZ362

CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

NOTE: The crankshaft and connecting rod is a

non-serviceable assembly. If any component is out

of specification, the assembly must be replaced.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge into the upper connecting rod

small end bore; then remove the gauge and measure

it with micrometer.

CC290D

2. Maximum diameter must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Deflection)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks and mount a

dial indicator and base on the surface plate. Position

the indicator contact point against the center of the

connecting rod small end journal.

2. Zero the indicator and push the small end of the con-

necting rod away from the dial indicator.

3. Maximum deflection must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Side-to-Side)

1. Push the lower end of the connecting rod to one side

of the crankshaft journal.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the

connecting rod and crankshaft journal.

3. Acceptable gap range must be within specifications.

GZ491

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Measuring Crankshaft (Runout)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface plate.

Position the indicator contact at point 1 of the crank-

shaft.

GZ489A

3. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

NOTE: Proceed to check runout on the other end of

the crankshaft by positioning the indicator contact at

point 2 and following steps 3-4.

Measuring Crankshaft

(Web-to-Web)

1. Using a calipers, measure the distance from the out-

side edge of one web to the outside edge of the other

web.

GZ492

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

COUNTERSHAFT

GZ281A

Disassembling

1. Remove the shift forks noting the positions for

assembling; then remove the high driven gear outer

washer, high driven gear, high driven gear bearing,

high driven gear bushing, and high driven gear inner

washer.

GZ283A

2. Remove the drive gear; then remove the snap ring

securing the reverse driven gear dog and bushing to

the countershaft.

GZ296

CAUTION

Care should be taken to support the connecting rod

when rotating the crankshaft.

CAUTION

When disassembling the countershaft, care must be

taken to note the direction each major component (dog,

gear) faces. If a major component is installed facing the

wrong direction, transmission damage may occur

and/or the transmission will malfunction. In either case,

complete disassembly and assembly will be required.

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3

GZ312

3. Remove the reverse driven gear dog.

GZ313A

4. Remove the snap ring securing the reverse driven

gear and washer; then remove the washer and gear.

GZ314

5. Remove the reverse driven washer; then remove the

low driven gear locking washer.

GZ320

GZ319

GZ318A

6. Remove the low driven gear. Account for a bearing,

bushing, and thrust washer.

GZ316

Assembling

1. From the drive gear end, install a thrust washer,

bushing, and bearing; then install the low driven gear

and washer.

GZ317A

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GZ318

2. Install the low driven gear locking washer; then

install the inner reverse driven gear washer.

GZ319B

GZ320B

3. Install the reverse driven bushing and bearing; then

install the reverse driven gear.

GZ286A

GZ287

4. Install the outer reverse driven washer; then secure

the reverse driven gear assembly with a snap ring.

GZ288A

GZ314

5. Install the reverse driven gear dog onto the counter-

shaft and secure with a snap ring.

GZ313A

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3

GZ312

6. From the opposite end of the countershaft, install the

high/low driven gear dog (A), thrust washer (B),

bushing (C), bearing (D), high/low driven gear (E),

and spacer washer (F).

GZ283B

7. Install the drive gear washer and the shift forks. The

countershaft is now ready for installation.

Assembling Crankcase

Half

1. Install the oil pump gerotor assembly and oil pump

cover in the crankcase and secure with two cap

screws. Coat the threads with blue Loctite #243 and

tighten securely to 8 ft-lb.

GZ305

2. Install a flat washer, drive pin, and drive gear onto

the oil pump shaft; then secure with a snap ring

(flat-side away from the gear).

GZ347

3. Install the countershaft into the crankcase and secure

with the snap ring (flat side away from the bearing).

GZ463A

4. Install the countershaft gear onto the countershaft and

secure with a snap ring (flat-side away from the gear).

GZ299A

5. Using rubber bands to support the connecting rods, care-

fully install the crankshaft assembly into the crankcase.

GZ474

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NOTE: It will be necessary to rotate the crankshaft

back and forth to engage the teeth of the oil pump

and countershaft gears.

6. Install the driveshaft; then with a flat washer on each

end of the reverse idler assembly, install into the

crankcase.

GZ332

GZ333

7. Install the gear shift shaft into the crankcase making

sure the flat washer is in place on the right case end

and the spacer bearing assembly on the gear shift

stop end.

DE677A

GZ335

8. Place the larger flat washer on the drive gear end of the

countershaft and the smaller flat washer on the high

driven gear end; then with shift forks and shift fork shaft,

install the countershaft assembly into the crankcase.

GZ280B

GZ336

9. Engage the shift forks into the gear shift shaft and

push the shift fork shaft into the crankcase.

GZ339

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3

Joining Crankcase Halves

1. Using rubber bands, support the connecting rods to

align with the cylinder bores.

GZ340

2. Coat both sides with engine oil; then install the

spacer washer on the crankshaft with the radius

directed toward the crankshaft.

GZ341

3. Install the two alignment pins; then apply a thin bead

of silicone sealant to the crankcase mating surface.

GZ345A

4. Carefully join the crankcase halves by placing the

left-side crankcase onto the assembled right side.

Secure with the cap screws (eight left side and one

right side).

GZ342

5. Tighten the 6 mm cap screws to 8 ft-lb and the 8 mm

cap screws to 20 ft-lb using the pattern shown and

turning the shafts frequently to ensure there is no

binding.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

GZ457A

NOTE: Cap screw number eight (8) is installed from

the right side.

NOTE: If the secondary drive/driven assemblies

have been disassembled, refer to Servicing Center

Crankcase Components for proper gear tooth contact

and backlash.

AT THIS POINT

Proper transmission shifting should be verified by turn-

ing the gear shift shaft to select High, Low, Neutral, and

Reverse while rotating the input shaft and observing the

countershaft rotation.

AT THIS POINT

The right-side crankcase is now ready for installation to

the left-side crankcase. Proceed to Joining Crankcase

Halves.

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6. Install the locating ring in the crankcase assembly;

then install the secondary driven shaft assembly and

secondary drive assembly making sure the locating

ring and bearing engage correctly.

GZ269A

GZ448A

7. Make sure the locating pins on the front and rear

bearings are correctly seated in the crankcase.

8. Install two alignment pins into the upper crankcase

assembly; then apply a thin bead of silicone sealant

to the lower crankcase cover.

GZ452A

GZ451

9. Carefully place the lower crankcase cover onto the

joined crankcase halves; then secure with the cap

screws. Tighten the 6 mm cap screws to 8 ft-lb and

the 8 mm cap screws to 20 ft-lb.

GZ447

10. Install the oil strainer; then apply a thin bead of sili-

cone sealant to the oil strainer cap and secure with

the cap screws. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

Installing

Engine/Transmission

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends that new gaskets

and O-rings be installed whenever servicing the ATV.

1. Turn the front driveline to place the output drive

yoke universal joint in the horizontal plane; then

secure the driveshaft to the right and against the

engine.

AT THIS POINT

After completing center crankcase components, pro-

ceed to Installing Right-Side Components, to Installing

Left-Side Components, and to Installing Top-Side Com-

ponents.

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3

GZ117A

2. Install the engine/transmission into the frame from

the right side.

3. Rotate the driveshaft 90°; then lift the front of the

engine sufficiently to engage the splined shaft into

the front differential. Lower the front of the engine.

GZ110A

GZ119

4. Align the rear output driv e flange and the rear yoke

flange and install the cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

5. Align the engine with the mounting brackets and

install the through-bolts with flat washers; then

install the flange nuts and tighten to 45 ft-lb.

6. Connect the coolant hose and tighten the clamps

securely.

7. Secure the engine and harness grounds to the engine

and tighten the cap screw to 8 ft-lb.

GZ064A

8. Install the ignition coils and tighten the cap screws to

7 ft-lb; then connect the primary wires, grounds, and

spark plug caps.

9. Connect the stator coil connector and crankshaft

position sensor connector; then connect the gear

position switch connector.

GZ069A

GZ493A

10. Install the front the rear exhaust pipes with new gra-

foil seals and tighten the retaining nuts to 20 ft-lb;

then install the muffler and connect all exhaust junc-

ture springs.

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GZ099A

GZ372

11. Install the intake manifolds and tighten to 8 ft-lb;

then install the throttle body and secure with the hose

clamps.

GZ106

GZ107

GZ090B

12. Connect the fuel injector, TPS connector (A), MAP

sensor connector (B), and ISC valve connector (C).

GZ094A

13. Install the shift linkage with bushings and secure

with E-clips.

14. Connect the gasline hose connectors to the fuel rails;

then install any nylon ties that were removed during

disassembly.

GZ124

15. Install the air filter housing and secure to the throttle

body with a hose clamp; then connect the IAT sensor

connector.

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GZ013

16. Install the V-belt cooling duct and boots. Tighten

securely.

17. Install the front body panel, footrests, foot wells, and

front rack; then install the upper bumper sup-

port-to-frame cap screws (see Section 8).

18. Connect the negative battery cable; then secure the

battery with the tool tray and install the seat.

19. Pour in the proper quantities of engine/transmission

oil and coolant; then start the engine and warm up to

operating temperature.

20. Check for fluid leaks; then shut off engine and check

fluid levels (see Section 2).

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4

SECTION 4 -

FUEL/LUBRICATION/COOLING

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Fuel/Lubrication/Cooling ......................................... 4-2

Electronic Fuel Injection .......................................... 4-2

Throttle Cable Free-Play ......................................... 4-4

Engine RPM (Idle)................................................... 4-5

Gas Tank ................................................................. 4-5

Oil Filter/Oil Pump ................................................... 4-5

Testing Oil Pump Pressure...................................... 4-5

Oil Cooler (1000)..................................................... 4-6

Liquid Cooling System ............................................ 4-6

Electric Fuel Pump/Fuel Level Sensor .................. 4-10

Troubleshooting ..................................................... 4-11

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Fuel/Lubrication/Cooling

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of new gas-

kets, lock nuts, and seals and lubricating all internal

components when servicing the engine/transmission.

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used in

this section are used for clarity purposes only and

are not designed to depict actual conditions.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located in

Section 1.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the techni-

cian when performing service procedures in this section.

Refer to the current Special Tools Catalog for the appro-

priate tool description.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Department.

Electronic Fuel Injection

TROUBLESHOOTING

1. Verify that the electric fuel pump is operating by lis-

tening for a "whirring" sound for several seconds

after the ignition switch is turned to the ON position.

If no sound can be heard, see Electric Fuel

Pump/Fuel Level Sensor in this section.

2. Check for a flashing DTC (Diagnostic Trouble

Code) on the LCD. If a code is flashing, see appro-

priate Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) in Section 5.

3. Make sure there is sufficient, clean gas in the gas

tank.

4. Verify that the battery is sufficiently charged to crank

the engine over at normal speed.

5. Check the air filter housing and air filter for contami-

nation. Clean or replace as necessary (see Section 2).

REMOVING (450)

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position; then

remove the ignition switch key.

2. Remove the seat; then disconnect the battery.

3. Remove the storage compartment cover and air filter

housing cover; then remove the air filter.

4. Loosen the clamp securing the air filter housing boot

to the throttle body inlet; then remove the boot from

the throttle body.

5. Slowly disconnect the gasline hose connector from

the fuel rail.

FI092A

6. Remove the screw securing the throttle actuator

cover to the throttle body; then remove the cover.

7. Remove the throttle cable from the actuator arm.

8. Loosen the outer jam nut securing the throttle cable to

the throttle body; then route the cable out of the way.

9. Remove the MAP sensor (A), fuel injector connector

(B), ISC connector (C), and TPS connector (D).

HDX136A

Description p/n

Oil Pressure Test Kit 0644-495

Seal Removal Tool 0644-072

Tachometer 0644-275

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is performed

on the fuel system during which there may be fuel leak-

age, there should be no welding, smoking, open flames,

etc., in the area.

! WARNING

Do not turn the ignition switch to the ON position with

the hoses removed. Gasoline will be pumped by the

electric fuel pump cau sing a safety hazard.

! WARNING

Gasoline may be under press ure. Place an absorbent

towel under the connector to absorb any gasoline spray

when disconnecting.

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10. Remove the cap screws securing the intake pipe to

the cylinder head and remove the throttle body

assembly; then remove the intake pipe from the

throttle body. Account for an O-ring.

FI104A

11. Use tape to cover and seal the intake opening.

REMOVING (1000)

1. Remove the front rack and body panel (see Section

8).

2. Disconnect the wires from the IAT sensor; then

loosen the clamp and remove the inlet air boot from

the air filter housing.

GZ379

GZ091A

3. Loosen the clamp on the throttle body intake boot;

then remove the air filter housing from the ATV.

4. Disconnect the three wiring connectors from the sen-

sors on the throttle body; then remove the cap screws

securing the throttle body to the intake manifold.

GZ094B

GZ381A

5. Remove the throttle arm cover and disconnect the

throttle cable; then remove the throttle body from the

ATV.

CAUTION

Any objects or liquid entering the intake opening will

fall into the engine causing severe damage if the engine

is turned over or started.

! WARNING

Whenever the gasline hoses are removed (other than for

pressure testing), the battery must be disconnected to

prevent inadvertent activation of the electronic fuel

pump.

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GZ383A

6. Use tape to cover and seal the intake opening.

INSTALLING (450)

1. Install the throttle body into the intake pipe and

secure with the clamp. Tighten securely.

2. Place a new O-ring in the intake pipe; then position

the pipe onto the engine and secure with two cap

screws.

3. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle body and

adjust throttle cable free-play (see Throttle Cable

Fre-Play in this section); then connect the gasline hose.

4. Connect the four electrical connectors to the throttle

body components.

5. Install the air filter housing boot and secure with the

clamp; then install the air filter, air filter cover, stor-

age compartment, and storage compartment cover.

6. Connect the battery (positive cable first); then install

the seat making sure it locks securely in place.

INSTALLING (1000)

1. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle body; then

remove the tape from the intake manifold and install

the throttle body using a new O-ring. Tighten the

cap screws securely.

GZ381A

2. Connect the three wiring connectors to the sensors;

then install the air filter housing and connect all

hoses. Tighten all clamps securely.

GZ094B

GZ091A

3. Connect the wiring connector to the IAT sensor.

4. Install the front rack and body panel (see Section 8).

5. Install the seat making sure it locks securely in place.

Throttle Cable Free-Play

To adjust the throttle cable free-play, follow this proce-

dure.

1. Slide the rubber boot away; then loosen the jam nut

from the throttle cable adjuster.

AL611D

2. Turn the adjuster until th e throttle cable has proper

free-play of 3-6 mm (1/8-1/4 in.) at the lever.

CAUTION

Any objects or liquid entering the intake opening will

fall into the engine causing severe damage if the engine

is turned over or started.

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ATV-0047

3. Tighten the jam nut against the throttle cable adjuster

securely; then slide the rubber boot over the adjuster.

Engine RPM (Idle)

NOTE: The idle RPM is not adjustable on the EFI

models.

Gas Tank

REMOVING

1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the rear rack and fenders (see Section 8).

3. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pump to the throt-

tle body by compressing the release on the connec-

tor.

FI092A

4. Remove the cap screws securing the gas tank to the

frame.

5. Disconnect the fuel gauge connector; then remove

the gas tank.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all gas tank components with parts-cleaning

solvent.

2. Inspect all hoses for cracks or leaks.

3. Inspect tank cap and tank for leaks, holes, and dam-

aged threads.

4. Remove the fuel level sensor/fuel pick-up assembly

and inspect the fuel level sensor and fuel screen.

NOTE: If the fuel level sensor has failed or may be

faulty, see Electric Fuel Pump/Fuel Level Sensor in

this section.

INSTALLING

1. Install the fuel level sensor/fuel pick-up assembly.

2. Place the gas tank into position in the frame; then

install the cap screws. Tighten securely.

3. Connect the gasline hose from the throttle body; then

connect the fuel gauge connector.

4. Fill the gas tank with gasoline.

5. Start the engine and inspect for leakage.

6. Install the rear fenders and rack (see Section 8); then

install the seat making sure it latches securely.

Oil Filter/Oil Pump

NOTE: Whenever internal engine components wear

excessively or break and whenever oil is contami-

nated, the oil pump should be replaced. The oil pump

is not a serviceable component.

Testing Oil Pump

Pressure

NOTE: The engine must be warmed up to the speci-

fied temperature for this test.

1. Connect the Tachometer to the engine or utilize the

LCD (if equipped).

2. Connect the Oil Pressure Test Kit to the oil pressure

test port (450 models) or the oil cooler to oil filter

line (1000 models).

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on

the fuel system during which there may be fuel leakage,

there should be no welding, smoking, open flames, etc.,

in the area.

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KC370A

GZ118A

GZ388A

NOTE: Some oil seepage ma y occur when installing

the oil pressure gauge. Wipe up oil residue with a

cloth.

3. Start the engine and run at 3000 RPM. With the oil

temperature at 60° C (140° F), the oil pressure gauge

must read as specified.

NOTE: If the oil pressure is lower than specified,

check for low oil level, defective oil pump, or

restricted oil cooler (1000 models).

NOTE: If the oil pressure is higher than specified,

check for too heavy engine oil weight (see Section 1),

clogged oil passage, clogged oil filter, or improper

installation of the oil filter.

Oil Cooler (1000)

REMOVING

NOTE: It is not necessary to drain the engine oil for

this procedure.

1. Remove the input and output hoses from the fittings

on the cooler.

2. Remove the cap screws securing the oil cooler to the

frame. Account for grommets.

3. Remove the oil cooler from the frame.

INSTALLING

1. Place the cooler into position in the frame.

2. Secure the cooler to the frame with the cap screws

and grommets.

3. Install the hoses onto their respective fittings and

secure with the clamps.

Liquid Cooling System

When filling the cooling system, use premixed Arctic Cat

Antifreeze. While the cooling system is being filled, air

pockets may develop; therefore, run the engine for five

minutes after the initial fill, shut the engine off, and then

fill the cooling system to the bottom of the stand pipe in

the radiator neck.

RADIATOR

Removing

1. Drain the coolant at the engine.

2. Remove the front rack (see Section 8).

3. Remove the front bumper and front fender panel (see

Section 8).

4. Remove the upper and lower coolant hoses.

5. Remove the cap screws and nuts securing the radia-

tor to the frame.

6. Disconnect the fan wiring from the main wiring har-

ness; then remove the radiator/fan assembly and

account for the grommets and collars.

7. Remove the fan/fan shroud assembly from the radia-

tor.

450 0.6-0.7 kg/cm 2 (8.5-10 psi)

1000 1.05-1.2 kg/cm 2 (15-17 psi)

CAUTION

Elevate and secure the hoses to avoid oil spillage.

CAUTION

After operating the ATV for the initial 5-10 minutes, stop

the engine, allow the engine to cool down, and check

the coolant level. Add coolant as necessary.

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4-7

4

CC863

Cleaning and Inspecting

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Flush the radiator with water to remove any contami-

nants.

2. Inspect the radiator for leaks and damage.

3. Inspect all hoses for cracks and deterioration.

4. Inspect all fasteners and grommets for damage or

wear.

Installing

1. Position the fan/fan shroud assembly on the radiator;

then secure with existing hardware.

2. Place the radiator with grommets and collars into

position on the frame; then install the cap screws and

nuts. Tighten securely.

3. Install the upper and lower coolant hoses; then

secure with hose clamps.

AF734D

4. Install the front bumper and front fender panel (see

Section 8).

5. Install the front rack (see Section 8).

6. Fill the cooling system with the recommended

amount of antifreeze. Check for leakage.

7. Connect the fan wiring to the main wiring harness.

THERMOSTAT

Removing (450)

1. Drain approximately one quart of coolant from the

cooling system.

2. Remove the two cap screws securing the thermostat

housing to the cylinder head. Account for an O-ring

and a thermostat.

Removing (1000)

NOTE: The thermostat is located in a housing

in-line with the upper radiator hoses under the air fil-

ter housing.

GZ036A

1. Drain approximately one quart of coolant from the

cooling system.

2. Remove the machine screws securing the thermostat

housing together. Remove the thermostat and

account for an O-ring.

Inspecting

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Inspect the thermostat for corrosion or spring dam-

age.

2. Using the following procedure, inspect the thermo-

stat for proper operation.

A. Suspend the thermostat in a container filled with

water.

B. Heat the water and monitor the temperature

with a thermometer.

C. The thermostat should start to open at 71-86° C

(160-187° F).

D. If the thermostat does not open, it must be

replaced.

3. Inspect all coolant hoses, connections, and clamps

for deterioration, cracks, and wear.

NOTE: All coolant hoses and clamps should be

replaced every four years or 4000 miles.

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4-8

Installing (450)

1. Place the thermostat and O-ring into the thermostat

housing; then secure the thermostat housing to the

cylinder head with the two cap screws.

2. Fill the cooling system with the recommended

amount of antifreeze. Check for leakage.

Installing (1000)

1. Place the thermostat and O-ring into the thermostat

housing; then secure the thermostat housing together

with the machine screws.

2. Fill the cooling system with the recommended

amount of antifreeze. Check for leakage.

COOLING FAN

Removing

1. Remove the radiator (see Radiator in this sub-sec-

tion).

2. Remove the fan assembly from the radiator.

Installing

1. Position the fan assembly on the radiator; then secure

with existing hardware.

NOTE: The fan wiring must be in the upper-right

position.

2. Install the radiator.

WATER PUMP (450)

NOTE: The water pump is a non-serviceable compo-

nent. It must be replaced as an assembly.

Removing

1. Remove the radiator cap; then remove the water

pump drain and drain the coolant.

CC789

2. Drain the oil from the engine/transmission.

3. Remove the four torx-head cap screws securing the

front and rear fenders to the footrest; then remove the

four cap screws securing the footrest to the frame.

Remove the footrest.

4. Loosen the hose clamps and slide the clamps away

from the hose ends approximately 2 in.; then remove

both hoses from the water pump.

5. Using an impact driver, loosen but do not remove the

two Phillips-head cover screws.

CC785A

6. Remove the two cap screws securing the water pump

to the engine; then remove the water pump.

CC786A

Installing

1. Secure the water pump to the engine with the two

cap screws tightened securely; then tighten the two

Phillips-head cover screws securely.

CC786A

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4-9

4

CC785A

2. Connect the two coolant hoses to the water pump and

secure with the clamps. Tighten securely.

3. Place the footrest into position on the frame and

loosely secure with four cap screws; then secure the

front and rear fenders to the footrest with the four

torx-head cap screws. Tighte n the four torx-head cap

screws securely; then tighten the 8 mm cap screws to

20 ft-lb and the 10 mm cap screws to 40 ft-lb.

4. Fill the engine/transmission with the proper amount

of recommended oil.

5. Fill the cooling system with the proper amount of

recommended coolant.

NOTE: While the cooling system is being filled, air

pockets may develop; theref ore, run the engine for

five minutes after the initial fill, shut the engine off,

and then fill the cooling system.

6. Check the entire cooling system for leakage.

WATER PUMP (1000)

NOTE: The water pump is a non-serviceable compo-

nent. It must be replaced as an assembly.

Removing

1. Remove the coolant drain plug; then remove the

radiator cap and drain the coolant into a suitable con-

tainer.

GZ093A

NOTE: Always use a large container and have suffi-

cient floor drying material available when draining

the coolant in case of coolant spillage.

2. Remove the coolant hoses from the water pump; then

remove two cap screws securing the water pump to

the crankcase.

GZ230A

3. Remove the water pump from the engine.

Installing

1. Install a new O-ring onto the water pump and lightly

coat with clean engine oil.

GZ252C

2. Install the water pump assembly onto the engine

aligning the flat drive on the water pump to the slot

in the driveshaft.

GZ252D

CAUTION

After operating the ATV for the initial 5-10 minutes, stop

the engine, allow the engine to cool down, and check

the coolant level. Add coolant as necessary.

CAUTION

Do not force the water pump housing into the crankcase

or severe engine damage may occur.

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4-10

3. Secure the water pump with the two cap screws and

tighten securely; then connect the coolant hoses and

secure with hose clamps.

4. Install and tighten the coolant drain plug securely;

then fill the cooling system with the proper amount

of recommended coolant and install the radiator cap.

5. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks; then add

coolant if necessary to proper level.

Electric Fuel Pump/Fuel

Level Sensor

The electric fuel pump and fuel level sensor are not ser-

viceable components. If either component fails, it must

be replaced.

TESTING

1. Turn the ignition switch ON and listen for a momen-

tary "whirring" sound of the pump building pressure.

If the sound is heard (10 seconds), no electrical

checks are necessary. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

2. Disconnect the gasline hose from the throttle body;

then install a suitable pressure gauge.

FI092A

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The fuel

pressure should build until the pump shuts off. Pres-

sure should read 3.0 kg-cm2 (43 psi).

4. If the pump is not running, disconnect the fuel

pump/tank sensor connector by reaching under the

rear rack from behind.

5. Connect a multimeter to the power supply leads with

the red tester lead to the red wire and the black tester

lead to the black wire; then turn the ignition switch to

the ON position. The meter should read battery volt-

age. If battery voltage is indicated and the fuel pump

does not run, replace the pump assembly. If no bat-

tery voltage is indicated, check the ECU and the

vehicle tilt sensor.

REMOVING

1. Remove the rear rack and fenders (see Section 8);

then disconnect the power supply/fuel hose connec-

tor.

2. Remove the spring clamp; then remove the fuel hose.

3. Remove the screws securing the fuel pump to the gas

tank; then make a reference mark on the fuel pump

and tank.

4. Lift out the fuel pump assembly carefully tilting it

forward to clear the voltage regulator; then guide the

pump and float lever through the opening in the gas

tank.

5. Using duct tape or other suitable means, cover the

fuel pump opening.

INSPECTING

1. Inspect the fuel screen and blow clean with low pres-

sure compressed air.

2. Move the float lever and check for free movement.

The float assembly should return to the lower posi-

tion without force. If not, replace the fuel pump

assembly.

3. Test the fuel level sensor by connecting a multimeter

(A) to the fuel level sensor leads (B); then select

OHMS. The multimeter should show 5 ohms at full

fuel position (C) and 95 ohms at empty fuel position

(D).

CAUTION

After operating the ATV for the initial 5-10 minutes, stop

the engine, allow the engine to cool down, and check

the coolant level. Add coolant as necessary.

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on

the fuel system during which there may be fuel leakage,

there should be no welding, smoking, open flames, etc.,

in the area.

AT THIS POINT

Prior to removing the electric fuel pump, the following

check should be performed to determine that removal

is necessary.

! WARNING

Gasoline may be under pressure. Place an absorbent

towel under the connector to absorb any gasoline spray

when disconnecting.

CAUTION

Take care not to damage the float or float arm or

replacement of the entire assembly will be necessary.

AT THIS POINT

If the pump has failed earlier test and must be

replaced, proceed to INSTALLING.

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4

ATV2116

NOTE: If readings are erratic, clean the resistor

wiper and resistor with clean alcohol and retest. If

still not correct, replace the fuel level sensor.

4. To replace the fuel level sensor, use the following

procedure.

A. Disconnect the two-wire connector (A); then

press the fuel level sensor toward the top of the

fuel pump to release it from the mounting slot

(B).

FI460A

B. Engage the tabs (C) of the fuel level sensor into

the mounting slot (B) and press toward the bot-

tom of the fuel pump to latch in place; then con-

nect the two-wire connector (A).

INSTALLING

1. Mark the new fuel pump with a reference mark in the

same location as the removed pump; then place the

new gasket on the pump.

2. Remove the material covering the fuel pump open-

ing; then carefully guide the fuel pump into position

taking care not to damage the float or float lever.

KX190

3. Rotate the fuel pump until the match marks align;

then install the mounting screws and tighten securely

using a crisscross pattern.

NOTE: It is important to install the fuel pump with

the correct orientation to ensure adequate float lever

clearance.

4. Connect the wires, fuel hose, and spring clamp; then

turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Note that

the fuel pump runs momentarily and the fuel gauge

indicates the proper fuel level.

5. With the transmission in neutral and brake lever lock

engaged, start the engine and check for normal oper-

ation. Check for any fuel leaks.

6. Install any wire ties that were removed; then install

the rear fenders, rack, and seat making sure the seat

locks securely.

Troubleshooting

Problem: Starting impaired

Condition Remedy

1. Gas contaminated 1. Drain gas tank and fill with clean gas

Problem: Idling or low speed impaired

Condition Remedy

1. TPS out of adjustment 1. Adjust TPS

Problem: Medium or high speed impaired

Condition Remedy

1. High RPM "cut out" against RPM limiter 1. Decrease RPM speed

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5-1

5

SECTION 5 -

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Electrical System..................................................... 5-2

Electrical Connections............................................. 5-2

Battery..................................................................... 5-2

RPM Limiter............................................................. 5-3

Testing Electrical Components................................ 5-3

Accessory Receptacle/Connector ........................... 5-3

Brakelight Switch (Auxiliary).................................... 5-3

Brakelight Switch (Handlebar Control) .................... 5-4

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor............ 5-5

Fan Motor ................................................................ 5-5

Power Distribution Module (PDM) ........................... 5-5

Ignition Coil ............................................................. 5-6

EFI Sensors/Components ....................................... 5-7

Speed Sensor ......................................................... 5-8

Electronic Power Steering (EPS)............................. 5-8

Ignition Switch ....................................................... 5-10

Handlebar Control Switches.................................. 5-10

Drive Select Switch ............................................... 5-11

Front Drive/Differential Lock Actuator.................... 5-12

Stator Coil/Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor........ 5-12

Starter Relay ......................................................... 5-13

Starter Motor ......................................................... 5-13

Electronic Control Unit (ECU)................................ 5-14

Regulator/Rectifier................................................. 5-14

Headlights ............................................................. 5-14

Taillight - Brakelight ............................................... 5-15

Ignition Timing....................................................... 5-15

Tilt Sensor ............................................................. 5-15

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (450) .................. 5-16

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (1000 FIS)............ 5-18

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

(1000 TRV/1000 Cruiser/1000 Mud Pro) ........... 5-20

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) (1000 FIS)......... 5-22

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

(450/1000 TRV/1000 Cruiser/1000 Mud Pro) ........ 5-22

Troubleshooting ..................................................... 5-24

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5-2

Electrical System

This section has been organized into sub-sections which

show procedures for the complete servicing of the Arctic

Cat ATV electrical system.

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used in

this section are used for clarity purposes only and

are not designed to depict actual conditions.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the techni-

cian when performing service procedures in this section.

Refer to the current Special Tool Catalog for the appro-

priate tool description.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Department.

Electrical Connections

The electrical connections should be checked periodi-

cally for proper function. In case of an electrical failure,

check fuses, connections (for tightness, corrosion, dam-

age), and/or bulbs.

Battery

After being in service, batteries require regular cleaning

and recharging in order to deliver peak performance and

maximum service life. The following procedure is rec-

ommended for cleaning and maintaining a sealed battery.

Always read and follow instructions provided with bat-

tery chargers and battery products.

NOTE: Refer to all warnings and cautions provided

with the battery or battery maintainer/charger.

Loss of battery charge may be caused by ambient temper-

ature, ignition OFF current draw, corroded terminals, self

discharge, frequent start/stops, and short engine run

times. Frequent winch usage, snowplowing, extended

low RPM operation, short trips, and high amperage

accessory usage are also reasons for battery discharge.

Maintenance Charging

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of the CTEK

Multi US 800 or the CTEK Multi US 3300 for battery

maintenance charging. Maintenance charging is

required on all batteries not used for more than two

weeks or as required by battery drain.

800E

1. When charging a battery in the vehicle, be sure the

ignition switch is in the OFF position.

2. Clean the battery terminals with a solution of baking

soda and water.

NOTE: The sealing strip should NOT be removed

and NO fluid should be added.

3. Be sure the charger and battery are in a well-venti-

lated area. Be sure the char ger is unplugged from the

110-volt electrical outlet.

4. Connect the red terminal lead from the charger to the

positive terminal of the battery; then connect the

black terminal lead of the charger to the negative ter-

minal of the battery.

NOTE: Optional battery charging adapters are avail-

able from your authorized Arctic Cat dealer to con-

nect directly to your vehicle from the recommended

chargers to simplify the maintenance charging pro-

cess. Check with your authorized Arctic Cat dealer

for proper installation of these charging adapter con-

nectors.

5. Plug the battery charger into a 110-volt electrical

outlet.

6. If using the CTEK Multi US 800, there are no further

buttons to push. If using the CTEK Multi US 3300,

press the Mode button (A) at the left of the charger

until the Maintenance Charge Icon (B) at the bottom

illuminates. The Normal Charge Indicator (C) should

illuminate on the upper portion of the battery charger.

NOTE: The maintainer/charger will charge the bat-

tery to 95% capacity at which time the Maintenance

Charge Indicator (D) will illuminate and the main-

tainer/charger will change to pulse/float mainte-

nance. If the battery falls below 12.9 DC volts, the

charger will automatically start again at the first step

of the charge sequence.

Description p/n

Diagnostic Harness 0486-219

Fluke Model 77 Multimeter 0644-559

MaxiClips 0744-041

Peak Voltage Reading Adapter 0644-307

Tachometer 0644-275

Test Plug/Code List 0444-216

Timing Light 0644-296

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5-3

5

3300A

NOTE: Not using a battery charger with the proper

float maintenance will damage the battery if con-

nected over extended periods.

Charging

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of the CTEK

Multi US 800 or the CTEK Multi US 3300 for battery

maintenance charging.

1. Be sure the battery and terminals have been cleaned

with a baking soda and water solution.

NOTE: The sealing strip should NOT be removed

and NO fluid should be added.

2. Be sure the charger and battery are in a well-venti-

lated area. Be sure the charger is unplugged from the

110-volt electrical outlet.

3. Connect the red terminal lead from the charger to the

positive terminal of the battery; then connect the

black terminal lead of the charger to the negative ter-

minal of the battery.

4. Plug the charger into a 110-volt electrical outlet.

5. By pushing the Mode button (A) on the left side of

the charger, select the Normal Charge Icon (E). The

Normal Charge Indicator (C) should illuminate on

the upper left portion of the charger.

6. The battery will charge to 95% of its capacity at

which time the Maintenance Charge Indicator (D)

will illuminate.

NOTE: For optimal charge and performance, leave

the charger connected to the battery for a minimum 1

hour after the Maintenance Charge Indicator (D) illu-

minates. If the battery becomes hot to the touch, stop

charging. Resume after it has cooled.

7. Once the battery has reached full charge, unplug the

charger from the 110-volt electrical outlet.

NOTE: If, after charging, the battery does not perform

to operator expectations, bring the battery to an autho-

rized Arctic Cat dealer for further troubleshooting.

RPM Limiter

NOTE: The ATV is equipped with an ECU that

retards ignition timing when maximum RPM is

approached. When the RPM limiter is activated, it

could be misinterpreted as a high-speed misfire.

Testing Electrical

Components

All of the electrical tests should be made using the Fluke

Model 77 Multimeter and when testing peak voltage, the

Peak Voltage Reading Adapter must be used. If any other

type of meter is used, readings may vary due to internal

circuitry. When troubleshooting a specific component,

always verify first that the fuse(s) are good, that the

bulb(s) are good, that the co nnections are clean and tight,

that the battery is fully char ged, and that all appropriate

switches are activated.

NOTE: For absolute accuracy, all tests should be

made at room temperature of 68° F.

Accessory

Receptacle/Connector

NOTE: This test procedure is for either the recepta-

cle or the connector.

VOLTAGE

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position; then

set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the red/white wire or

the positive connector; then connect the black tes-

ter lead to ground.

3. The meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage, trou-

bleshoot the battery, fuse, receptacle, connector, or

the main wiring harness.

Brakelight Switch

(Auxiliary)

The switch connector is the two-prong connector on the

brake switch lead above the gas tank on the right side.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON posi-

tion.

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VOLTAGE (Wiring Harness Side)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester to the orange wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the red/blue wire.

FI510

3. The meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage, trouble-

shoot the battery, fuse, switch, or the main wiring harness.

NOTE: If the meter shows battery voltage, the main

wiring harness is good; proceed to test the

switch/component, the connector, and the switch wir-

ing harness for resistance.

RESISTANCE (Switch Connector)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one black wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the other black wire.

FI502

3. When the brake pedal is depressed, the meter must

show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of resis-

tance, replace the switch.

Brakelight Switch

(Handlebar Control)

To access the connector, remove the access panel.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON position.

VOLTAGE

(Wiring Harness Connector)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire; then

connect the black tester le ad to the red/blue wire.

FI489

3. The meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage, trouble-

shoot the battery, fuse, switch, or the main wiring harness.

NOTE: If the meter shows battery voltage, the main

wiring harness is good; proceed to test the

switch/component, the connector, and the switch wir-

ing harness for resistance.

RESISTANCE (Switch Connector)

NOTE: The brake lever must be compressed for this

test. Also, the ignition switch must be in the OFF position.

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one black wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the other black wire.

FI490

3. When the lever is compressed, the meter must

show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of resis-

tance, replace the switch.

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5

Engine Coolant

Temperature (ECT)

Sensor

1. Connect the meter leads (selector in OHMS posi-

tion) to the sensor terminals.

2. Suspend the sensor and a thermometer in a con-

tainer of cooking oil; then heat the oil.

NOTE: Neither the sensor nor the thermometer

should be allowed to touch the bottom of the con-

tainer or inaccurate readings will occur. Use wire

holders to suspend the sensor and thermometer.

3. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches

20° C (68° F), the meter should read approxi-

mately 2.45k ohms.

4. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches

50° C (122° F), the meter should read approxi-

mately 800 ohms.

5. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches

80° C (176° F), the meter should read approxi-

mately 318 ohms.

6. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches

110° C (230° F), the meter should read approxi-

mately 142 ohms.

7. If the readings are not as indicated, the sensor

must be replaced.

8. Install the sensor and tighten securely.

9. Connect the leads.

Fan Motor

The connector is the black two-prong one located above

the oil cooler/radiator.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON posi-

tion.

RESISTANCE (Fan Motor Connector)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the blue wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the black wire.

FI501A

3. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of resis-

tance, troubleshoot or replace the fan motor.

NOTE: To determine if the fan motor is good, con-

nect the red wire from the fan connector to the posi-

tive side of a 12 volt battery; then connect the black

wire from the fan connector to the negative side. The

fan should operate.

Power Distribution

Module (PDM)

The fuses are located in a power distribution module

under the seat. If there is any type of electrical system

failure, always check the fuses first.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the LIGHTS

position.

1. Remove all fuses from the distribution module.

2. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

3. Connect the black tester lead to ground.

4. Using the red tester lead, contact each end of the

fuse holder connector terminals individually.

5. The meter must show battery voltage from one

side of the connector terminal ends.

NOTE: Battery voltage will be indicated from only

one side of the fuse holder connector terminal; the

other side will show no voltage.

NOTE: When testing the HI fuse holder, the head-

light dimmer switch must be in the HI position; when

testing the LIGHTS fuse holder, the headlight dimmer

switch can be in either position.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage, trou-

bleshoot the battery, switches, distribution module,

or the main wiring harness.

! WARNING

Wear insulated gloves and safety glasses. Heated oil can

cause severe burns.

! WARNING

Care should be taken to keep clear of the fan blades.

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5-6

FUSES

NOTE: To remove a fuse, compress the locking tabs

on either side of the fuse case and lift out.

2411-090

2411-081

2411-091

2411-214

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one spade end of the

fuse; then connect the black tester lead to the other

spade end.

3. The meter must show less than 1 ohm resistance.

If the meter reads open, replace the fuse.

NOTE: Make sure the fuses are returned to their

proper position according to amperage. Refer to the

fuse block decal for fuse placement.

RELAYS

The 4-pin relays are identical plug-in type. Relay func-

tion can be checked by switching relay positions. The

relays are interchangeable.

NOTE: The module and wiring harness are not a service-

able components and must be replaced as an assembly.

Ignition Coil

NOTE: On the 1000 models, the following proce-

dures should be performed on both ignition coils.

The ignition coil is on the frame above the engine. To access

the coil, the side panel must be removed (see Section 8).

RESISTANCE

NOTE: For these tests, the meter selector should be

set to the OHMS position and the primary wire(s)

should be disconnected.

Primary Winding

1. Connect the red tester lead to either terminal; then

connect the black tester le ad to the other terminal.

2. The meter reading must be within specification.

Secondary Winding

1. Remove the plug cap from the high tension lead; then

connect the red tester lead to the high tension lead.

2. Connect the black tester lead to either primary

connector.

3. The meter reading must be within specification.

NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified,

replace ignition coil.

Spark Plug Cap

1. Connect the red tester lead to one end of the cap;

then connect the black tester lead to the other end

of the cap.

450/450 TRV

1000 Cruiser

1000 Mud Pro

1000 Cruiser PS

CAUTION

Always replace a blown fuse with a fuse of the same

type and rating.

CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

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5-7

5

AR603D

2. The meter reading must be within specification.

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

replace the spark plug cap.

Primary Voltage - ECU (1000)

NOTE: The ECU is located beneath the rear body

panel near the taillight.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position; then

disconnect the orange primary wire from the coil.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange primary

wire; then connect the black tester lead to ground.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

4. The meter reading must show battery voltage.

EFI Sensors/Components

CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP)

SENSOR

To test the CKP sensor, see Stator Coil/Crankshaft Posi-

tion (CKP) Sensor in this section.

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE

(MAP) SENSOR (1000 Models)

1. Disconnect the MAP connector from the pressure

sensor located on top of the throttle body.

2. Select DC Voltage on the tester and turn the igni-

tion switch to the ON position.

3. Connect the black tester lead to the black/green

wire and the red tester lead to the orange/blue

wire. The meter should read 4.5-5.5 DC volts. If

the meter does not read as specified, check the

ECU connector or wiring.

4. Connect the MAP to the harness; then using Maxi-

Clips, connect the red tester lead to the brown/white

wire and the black tester lead to the black/green

wire. With the engine running at idle speed, the

meter should read approximately 1.5 DC volts.

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

replace the sensor.

INLET AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT)

SENSOR (1000 Models)

1. Connect the meter leads (selector in OHMS posi-

tion) to the sensor terminals.

2. Suspend the sensor and a thermometer in a con-

tainer of cooking oil; then heat the oil.

NOTE: Neither the sensor nor the thermometer

should be allowed to touch the bottom of the con-

tainer or inaccurate readings will occur. Use wire

holders to suspend the sensor and thermometer.

3. On the sensor when the temperature reaches 20° C

(68° F), the meter should read approximately

2.45k ohms.

4. On the sensor when the temperature reaches 50° C

(122° F), the meter should read approximately 800

ohms.

5. On the sensor when the temperature reaches 80° C

(176° F), the meter should read approximately 318

ohms.

6. On the sensor when the temperature reaches 11

C (230° F), the meter should read approximately

142 ohms.

7. If the readings are not as indicated, the sensor

must be replaced.

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE/

INLET AIR TEMPERATURE (MAP/IAT)

SENSOR (450)

1. Disconnect the MAP/IAT connector from the sen-

sor located on top of the throttle body.

2. Select DC Voltage on the tester and turn the igni-

tion switch to the ON position.

3. Connect the black tester lead to the black/pink

wire and the red tester lead to the orange/blue

wire. The meter should read 4.5-5.5 DC volts. If

the meter does not read as specified, check the

ECU connector or wiring.

4. Connect the MAP/IAT to the harness; then using

MaxiClips, connect the red tester lead to the

brown/white wire and the black tester lead to the

black/pink wire. With the engine running at idle

speed, the meter should read approximately 2.5

DC volts (MAP sensor signal).

5. Connect the red tester lead to the green/red wire.

With the engine at idle and at room temperature

(approximately 60° F), the meter should read

approximately 2.9 DC volts.

! WARNING

Wear insulated gloves and safety glasses. Heated oil can

cause severe burns.

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5-8

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

replace the sensor.

Speed Sensor

NOTE: Prior to testing the speed sensor, inspect the

three-wire connector on the speed sensor for con-

tamination, broken pins, and/or corrosion.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. With appropriate needle adapters on the meter

leads, connect the red tester lead to the voltage

lead (V); then connect the black tester lead to the

ground lead (G).

CD885A

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

4. The meter must show 6-12 DC volts.

5. Leave the black tester lead connected; then con-

nect the red tester lead to the signal lead (S) pin.

6. Slowly move the ATV forward or backward; the

meter must show 0 and 6-12 DC volts alternately.

NOTE: If the sensor tests are within specifications,

the gauge must be replaced (see Section 8).

To replace a speed sensor, use the following procedure.

1. Disconnect the three-wire connector from the

speed sensor harness or from the speed sensor;

then remove the Allen-head cap screw securing

the sensor to the sensor housing.

2. Remove the sensor from the sensor housing

accounting for an O-ring.

3. Install the new speed sens or into the housing with

new O-ring lightly coated with multi-purpose

grease; then secure the sensor with the Allen-head

cap screw (threads coated with blue Loctite #242).

Tighten securely.

CD071

Electronic Power

Steering (EPS)

NOTE: Certain models have been produced with

electronic power steering. The following information

is intended to be used when servicing these models.

The electronic power steerin g (EPS) system is an elec-

tro-mechanical device that utilizes 12 volt DC power to

drive a motor linked to the steering shaft to assist the

rider when rotating the handlebar. Rider steering inputs

are detected by a torque-sensing transducer assembly

within the EPS housing. These inputs are converted to

electronic signals by the transducer and control circuitry

to tell the motor which way to drive the steering shaft.

When no steering input (pressure on the handlebar) is

detected, no torque signal is generated, and no steering

assist is provided by the motor.

The EPS system is battery-system powered; therefore,

the battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

Power delivery and overload protection are provided by

an EPS relay and 30-amp fuse, located under the seat in

the Power Distribution Module (PDM).

If a system malfunction occurs, a malfunction code

"P0635" will be displayed on the LCD gauge. Initially,

the gauge will go blank for 30 seconds and the code will

flash: then the gauge will return to normal except the

code will continue to be displayed.

The following is a list of conditions that can generate a

malfunction code. All conditions with the exception of

item 5 are external to the EPS assembly and therefore can

be cleared without replacement of the EPS assembly.

Make sure to thoroughly troubleshoot the entire system

before replacing the EPS assembly.

NOTE: The EPS assembly is not serviceable and no

service parts or parts lists are available. The EPS is

only serviceable as an assembly and must not be dis-

assembled or EPS warranty will be voided.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to check resistance of the EPS motor

(2-pin input receptacle). There are internal capacitors

holding a charge that can cause internal damage to an

ohmmeter.

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5

Malfunction code P0635 will appear if one of the follow-

ing six conditions occur:

1. Battery system power failure:

A. 30 amp EPS fuse blown

B. EPS relay failure

C. EPS voltage less than 8.5 DC volts for more than

two seconds

2. Ignition switch ON for more than five minutes with

the engine not running.

3. Vehicle Speed Signal Malfunction (engine speed

must exceed 2700 RPM for more than 60 seconds to

generate a malfunction code - timer resets if engine

drops below 2700 RPM).

A. Diode defective (open or shorted)

B. Diode not installed

C. Diode installed in reverse

D. Speed sensor defective

E. Speed sensor signal erratic

F. Speed sensor signal present but without tachome-

ter signal

G. Speed sensor power from LCD gauge interrupted

H. Incorrect LCD gauge installed

4. Engine Speed Signal Malfunction (vehicle speed must

exceed 5 MPH for more than two seconds - timer

resets if speed drops below 5 MPH.

A. No engine speed signal

B. Erratic engine speed signal

5. EPS Control Circuit Malfunction

6. Engine Stop Switch in Stop position with Ignition

Key switch ON.

The following procedures may be helpful in determining

the source of a malfunction code:

Condition: Ignition Key Switch ON and NO EPS assist

when moving the handlebar. Code "P0635" flashing.

NOTE: Prior to troubleshooting below, make sure

that Ignition Key Switch has not been left on with the

engine not started. After five minutes, this will deacti-

vate the EPS and display the malfunction code. Turn

Ignition Key Switch OFF and back to ON to reset and

reactivate the EPS. If co de and symptom persists,

continue as follows:

1. Check 30 amp EPS fuse.

2. Check EPS relay (may be switched with any other

4-pin relay on PDM - replace relay if EPS normal

after switching).

3. Disconnect 2-pin connector on the EPS assembly

and connect a volt meter set to DC voltage to the har-

ness (black meter lead to BLK and red meter lead to

ORG/BRN) With the ignition switch to the ON posi-

tion, the meter must read more than 8.5 DC volts (if

correct voltage is not present, check connections and

wiring harness - if correct voltage is present, replace

EPS assembly - see Section 8 - Steering Post/Tie

Rods sub-section).

Condition: Ignition switch ON and EPS assist normal

when moving handlebar. Code "P0635" flashing.

NOTE: Prior to troubleshooting steps below, make

sure that the Engine Stop Switch has not been used

to stop the engine leaving the ignition switch in the

ON position. If the engine stop switch is not in the

RUN position, set to RUN position and cycle the igni-

tion switch to OFF then ON. If malfunction code is

still indicated, proceed as follows.

1. Check for speed sensor signal by disconnecting the

8-pin connector from the EPS assembly and using a

multi-meter set to the DC volt position, connect the

black lead to the PNK/YEL wire and the red lead to

the ORG wire. With the ignition switch turned to the

ON position, slowly move the vehicle forward or

backward. The meter must alternate from 0 DC volts

to approximately 12 DC volts. If meter readings are

not as specified:

A. Check EPS diode for correct installation or open

diode (replace diode or install correctly).

B. Check speed sensor using procedure found in this

section (replace speed sensor/install proper

gauge).

2. Check for engine speed signal by disconnecting the

8-pin connector from the EPS assembly and using a

multi-meter set to the AC voltage position, connect

one lead to any BLK wire and the other lead to

YEL/VLT wire. Start the engine and with the engine

idling the meter should read approximately 7.5 AC

volts. If meter reading is not as specified:

A. Check the wiring harness from EPS to gauge

(YEL/VLT wire - repair wiring).

B. Check the AC generator using the Stator

Coil/Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor procedure

found in this section. If not to specifications,

replace the stator coil.

If after completing the above checks with normal results

and malfunction code "P0635" persists, the EPS assem-

bly must be replaced. To replace the EPS assembly, see

Section 8 - Steering Post/Tie Rods sub-section.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to disassemble the EPS assembly as

there are no serviceable components within the assem-

bly and damage will occur voiding the EPS warranty.

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5-10

Ignition Switch

The ignition switch harness co nnects to the switch with a

four-pin connector. To access the connector, remove the

ignition switch nut, remove the switch, and press the con-

nector release tab. Pull the connector from the switch.

CF272A

CF273A

VOLTAGE

NOTE: Perform this test on the harness connector.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red meter lead to either red wire; then

connect the black meter lead to ground.

3. Meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage, trou-

bleshoot the battery or the main wiring harness.

RESISTANCE

NOTE: Perform this test on the switch using the fol-

lowing procedure.

CF274A

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

3. Connect either tester lead to pin C; then connect

the other tester lead to pin D.

4. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

5. Turn the ignition switch to the LIGHTS position.

6. Connect either tester le ad to pin A; then connect

the other tester lead to pin B.

7. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

8. Connect either tester lead to pin C; then connect

the other tester lead to pin D.

9. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

10. With the switch in the OFF position, connect the

red tester lead and the black tester lead to each of

the remaining pins. The meter must show an open

circuit on all pins.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of resis-

tance, replace the switch.

Handlebar Control

Switches

The connector is the yellow one next to the steering

post. To access the connector, the steering post cover

and the right-side fender splash shield must be

removed (see Section 8).

NOTE: These tests should be made on the top side

of the connector.

RESISTANCE (HI Beam)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the gray wire.

3. With the dimmer switch in the HI position, the

meter must show less than 1 ohm.

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5

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of resis-

tance, replace the switch.

RESISTANCE (LO Beam)

1. Connect the red tester lead to the white wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the gray wire.

2. With the dimmer switch in the LO position, the

meter must show an open circuit.

NOTE: If the meter reads resistance, replace the

switch.

DIODE (Starter Button)

NOTE: If voltage is not as specified, check the con-

dition of the battery in the meter prior to replacing the

switch. A low battery will result in a low voltage read-

ing during a diode test.

1. Set the meter selector to the Diode position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange/white

wire; then connect the black tester lead to the yel-

low/green wire.

3. With the starter button depressed, the meter must

show 0.5-0.7 DC volt.

4. With the starter button released, the meter must

show 0 DC volts.

5. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow/green

wire; then connect the black tester lead to the

orange/white wire.

6. With the starter button depressed, the meter must

show 0 DC volts.

NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified,

replace the switch.

RESISTANCE (Engine Stop Switch)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the orange/white wire.

3. With the switch in the OFF position, the meter

must show an open circuit.

4. With the switch in the RUN position, the meter

must show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of resis-

tance, replace the switch.

RESISTANCE (Reverse Override)

The connector is the four-prong white one next to the

steering post. To access the connector, the front rack and

front fenders must be removed (see Section 8).

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one red/yellow wire;

then connect the black tester wire to the other red/yel-

low wire. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

3. Depress and hold the reverse override button. The

meter must show an open circuit.

4. Connect the red tester lead to the blue wire; then

connect the black meter lead to the black wire. The

meter must show an open circuit.

5. Depress and hold the reverse override button. The

meter must show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified,

replace the switch.

Drive Select Switch

The connector is the two-wire black snap-lock one in

front of the steering post. To access the connector, the

cover must be removed.

NOTE: Resistance tests should be made with the

connector disconnected and on the selector-side of

the connector.

RESISTANCE

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the red wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the white wire.

3. With the selector switch in the 2WD position, the

meter must show an open circuit.

4. With the selector switch in the 4WD position, the

meter must show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified,

replace the drive select switch.

VOLTAGE

NOTE: The battery must be connected when per-

forming voltage tests.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the black tester lead to the negative bat-

tery terminal.

3. Connect the red tester lead to the white wire on the

harness side of the connector.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.

5. The meter must show 12 DC volts.

NOTE: If the meter shows other than specified,

check the harness, connector, 30 amp fuse, and bat-

tery connections.

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5-12

Front Drive/Differential

Lock Actuator

NOTE: With the engine stopped and the ignition

switch in the ON position, a momentary "whirring"

sound must be noticeable each time the drive select

switch is moved to 2WD and 4WD. Test the switch, 30

amp fuse, and wiring connections prior to testing the

actuator.

NOTE: The differential must be in the unlocked

position for this procedure.

VOLTAGE

1. Select the 2WD position on the drive select

switch; then disconnect the connector on the actu-

ator wiring harness.

2. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, con-

nect the black tester lead to the black wire in the

supply harness; then connect the red tester lead to

the orange wire in the supply harness.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter must show 12 DC volts.

4. Connect the red tester lead to the white/orange

wire in the supply harness. The meter must show

12 DC volts.

5. Connect the red tester lead to the white/green wire

in the supply harness. The meter must show 10.2

DC volts.

6. Select the 4WD position on the drive select

switch; then connect the red tester lead to the

white/orange wire in the supply harness. The

meter must show 12 DC volts.

NOTE: The 4WD icon on the LCD should illuminate.

7. Connect the red tester lead to the white/green wire

in the supply harness. The meter must show 0 DC

volts.

8. Select Differential Lock on the drive select switch;

then connect the red tester lead to the white/orange

wire in the supply harness. The meter must show 0

DC volts.

9. Connect the tester lead to the white/green wire in

the supply harness. The meter must show 0 DC

volts.

NOTE: The 4WD and LOCK icons on the LCD

should illuminate.

NOTE: If the voltage readings are as specified and

the actuator does not function correctly, replace the

actuator (see Section 6).

Stator Coil/Crankshaft

Position (CKP) Sensor

VOLTAGE

(AC Generator - Regulated Output)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery

post; then connect the black tester lead to the nega-

tive battery post.

3. With the engine running at a constant 5000 RPM

(with the headlights on), the meter must show

14-15.5 DC volts.

NOTE: If voltage is lower than specified, test AC

Generator - No Load.

VOLTAGE

(AC Generator - No Load)

The connector is a three-pin one in the harness coming

from the generator.

FI083B

NOTE: Test the connector that comes from the

engine.

1. Set the meter selector to the AC Voltage position.

2. Test between the three yellow wires (450) or black

wires (1000) for a total of three tests.

3. With the engine running at a constant 5000 RPM,

all voltage tests must be within specifications.

NOTE: If both stator coil tests failed, replace the

stator assembly.

CAUTION

Do not run the engine at high RPM for more than 10 sec-

onds.

CAUTION

Do not run the engine at high RPM for more than 10 sec-

onds.

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5

RESISTANCE (AC Generator)

1. Set the meter selector to OHMS position.

2. Test between the three yellow wires (450) or gray

wires (1000) for a total of three tests.

3. The meter reading must be within specification.

RESISTANCE

(Crankshaft Position Sensor)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the blue wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the green wire. The

meter reading must be within specification.

AC VOLTAGE

NOTE: The battery must be at full charge for these

tests.

Crankshaft Position Sensor

1. Set the meter selector to the AC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the blue wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the green wire.

3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter.

4. The meter reading must be within specification.

Starter Relay

1. Remove the seat; then using the multimeter set to

the DC Voltage position, check the relay as fol-

lows.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery

terminal; then connect the black tester lead to the

starter cable connection on the starter relay. The

meter must show battery voltage.

FI496

NOTE: Make sure that the ignition switch is in the ON

position, transmission in neutral, brake lock released,

and the engine stop switch in the RUN position.

3. Depress the starter button while observing the

multimeter. The multimeter should drop to 0 volts

and a "click" should be heard from the relay.

NOTE: If a "click" is heard and more than 1 volt is

indicated by the multimeter, replace the starter relay.

If no "click" is heard and the multimeter continues to

indicate battery voltage, proceed to step 4.

4. Disconnect the two-wire plug from the starter

relay; then connect the red tester lead to the green

wire and the black tester lead to the black wire.

KX059A

5. Depress the starter button and observe the multimeter.

NOTE: If battery voltage is indicated, replace the

starter relay. If no voltage is indicated, proceed to

Power Distribution Module (PDM) check in this sec-

tion.

Starter Motor

NOTE: The starter motor is a non-serviceable com-

ponent. If the following test does not result as speci-

fied, the starter motor must be replaced.

TESTING VOLTAGE

Perform this test on the starter motor positive terminal.

To access the terminal, slide the boot away.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON posi-

tion, the engine stop switch in the RUN position, and

the shift lever in the NEUTRAL position.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the starter motor ter-

minal; then connect the black tester lead to

ground.

3. With the starter button depressed, the meter must

show approximately 10.0 DC volts and the starter

motor should operate.

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AR607D

NOTE: If the meter showed correct voltage but the

starter motor did not operate or operated slowly, the

starter motor is defective.

NOTE: If the meter showed no voltage, inspect the

main fuse, ground connections, starter motor lead,

battery voltage (at the battery), starter relay, or the

neutral start relay.

REMOVING

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the nut securing the positive cable to the

starter motor; then remove the cable from the

starter motor.

3. Remove the two cap screws securing the starter

motor to the crankcase; then remove the starter

motor. Account for the wiring forms and an

O-ring.

INSTALLING

1. Apply a small amount of grease to the O-ring seal on

the starter motor; then install the starter motor into

the crankcase. Secure with two machine screws and

wiring forms.

2. Secure the positive cable to the starter motor with

the nut.

3. Connect the battery (positive cable first).

Electronic Control Unit

(ECU)

The electronic control unit (ECU) is located beneath the

seat near the battery (450) or under the fender near the

taillight (1000).

NOTE: The ECU is not a serviceable component. If

the unit is defective, it must be replaced.

The ECU is rarely the cause for electrical problems; however,

if the ECU is suspected, substitute another ECU of the same

part number to verify the suspected one is defective.

Codes can be cleared by following the procedures located

in the appropriate Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

sub-section in this section.

Regulator/Rectifier

The regulator/rectifier is located under the rear rack and

rear fenders.

TESTING

1. Start engine and warm up to normal operating

temperature; then connect a multimeter to the bat-

tery as follows.

2. Select the DC Voltage position; then connect the

red tester lead to the positive battery post and the

black tester lead to the negative battery post.

3. Start the engine and slowly increase RPM. The

voltage should increase with the engine RPM to a

maximum of 15.5 DC volts.

NOTE: If voltage rises above 15.5 DC volts, the reg-

ulator is faulty or a battery connection is loose or cor-

roded. Clean and tighten battery connections or

replace the regulator/rectifier. If voltage does not rise,

see Stator Coil/Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor -

Voltage in this section. If charging coil voltage is nor-

mal, replace the regulator/rectifier.

Headlights

The connectors are the four 2-prong ones plugged into

the headlight bulbs (two on each side).

VOLTAGE

NOTE: Perform this test in turn on the main harness

side of all four connectors. Also, the ignition switch

must be in the LIGHTS position.

NOTE: The LO beam is th e outside bulb, and the HI

beam is the inside bulb.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one wire; then con-

nect the black tester lead to the other wire.

3. With the dimmer switch in the LO position, test

the two outside connectors (LO beam). The meter

must show battery voltage.

4. With the dimmer switch in the HI position, test the

two inside connectors (HI beam). The meter must

show battery voltage.

CAUTION

Always disconnect the negative battery cable from the

battery first; then disconnect the positive cable.

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5

NOTE: If battery voltage is not shown in any test,

inspect the LIGHTS fuse, battery, main wiring har-

ness, connectors, or the left handlebar switch.

Taillight - Brakelight

The connector is the 3-prong one located under the rear

fender assembly.

VOLTAGE (Taillight)

NOTE: Perform this test on the main harness side of

the connector. Also, the ignition switch should be in

the LIGHTS position.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the white wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the black wire.

3. With the ignition key in the LIGHTS position, the

meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no voltage, inspect fuses,

wiring harness, connectors, and switches.

VOLTAGE (Brakelight)

NOTE: Perform this test on the main harness side of

the connector. Also, the ignition switch should be in

the ON position and the brake (either foot pedal or

hand lever) must be applied.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the red/blue wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the black wire.

3. With either brake applied, the meter must show

battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no voltage, inspect fuses,

wiring harness, connectors, and switches.

Ignition Timing

The ignition timing cannot be adjusted; however, verifying

ignition timing can aid in troubleshooting other components.

To verify ignition timing, use the following procedure.

1. Attach the Timing Light to the spark plug high ten-

sion lead; then remove the timing inspection plug

from the left-side crankcase cover.

2. Using the Tachometer, start the engine and run at

1500 RPM; ignition timing should be 10° BTDC.

3. Install the timing inspection plug.

If ignition timing cannot be verified, the rotor may be dam-

aged, the key may be sheared, the trigger coil/CKP sensor

bracket may be bent or damaged, or the ECU may be faulty.

Tilt Sensor

SUPPLY VOLTAGE

1. Disconnect the three-wire connector from the sen-

sor; then select DC Voltage on the multimeter and

connect the red tester lead to the orange wire (C)

and the black tester lead to the black wire (A).

CD706A

2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

multimeter should read battery voltage. If battery

voltage is not indicated, check the 30-amp main

and 10-amp ignition fuses, wiring harness, or the

ignition switch.

3. Remove the red tester lead and connect to the

blue/brown wire (B). The multimeter should read

approximately 2.5 DC volts. If the specified volt-

age is not indicated, check wire connections at the

ECU or substitute another ECU to verify the test.

CD706B

! WARNING

Incorrect installation of the tilt sensor could cause sud-

den loss of engine power which could result in loss of

vehicle control resulting in injury or death.

CAUTION

Do not drop the tilt sensor as shock can damage the

internal mechanism.

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5-16

OUTPUT VOLTAGE

NOTE: Needle adapters or a "break-out" harness

will be required on the multimeter leads as the follow-

ing tests are made with the sensor connected.

1. Connect the three-wire plug to the sensor; then

remove the right-side mounting screw securing the

sensor to the rear frame.

CD707

2. Install the needle adapters to the multimeter leads;

then select DC Voltage on the multimeter.

3. Connect the red tester lead to the blue/brown wire

(B) and the black tester lead to the black/yellow wire

(A); then turn the ignition switch ON and observe the

meter. The meter should read 0.3-1.5 DC volt.

CD705B

4. Tilt the sensor 60° or more to the left and right

observing the meter. The meter should read 3.0-7.0

DC volts after approximately one second in the

tilted position. If the meter readings are not as

specified, the tilt sensor is defective.

CD709

NOTE: When replacing the sensor after testing,

make sure the arrow marking is directed up.

CD705A

Throttle Position Sensor

(TPS) (450)

INSPECTING

1. Remove the left-side engine cover; then discon-

nect the three-wire TPS connector plug.

PR544

NOTE: Prior to testing the TPS, inspect the

three-wire plug connector on the main harness and

the three-pin plug on the TPS for contamination, bro-

ken pins, and/or corrosion.

2. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion; then select the DC Voltage position on the

meter.

3. Connect the black tester lead to terminal B and the

red tester lead to terminal A. Turn the ignition

switch to the ON position. The meter should read

approximately 5.0 DC volts.

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5

PR538A

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

check for poor connections at the ECU or open/bro-

ken wires in the wiring harness.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

5. Select the OHMS position on the meter; then per-

form the following resistance tests on the TPS.

A. Pin (B) to ground - infinity (open circuit).

B. Pin (A) to pin (B) - approximately 1.22k ohms

(throttle closed).

C. Pin (A) to pin (B) - approximately 4.5k ohms

(throttle full-open).

D. Pin (A) to pin (C) - approximately 5.5k ohms.

PR535A

NOTE: If any meter reading is not as specified,

replace or adjust the TPS (see INSTALLING/ADJUST-

ING in this sub-section).

6. Connect the positive lead to the battery; then con-

nect the negative lead.

7. Connect the main harness TPS connector to the

TPS; then using MaxiClips, connect the black tes-

ter lead to the black/green wire and the red tester

lead to the green/black wire.

PR546A

8. Select the DC Voltage position on the meter and

turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter should read approximately 4.5 DC volts

with the throttle closed and approximately 1.5 DC

volts with the throttle in the full-open position.

NOTE: If the meter readings are as specified, check

the main harness connector at the ECU main harness

wiring. If the meter readings are not as specified,

replace the TPS and adjust to specifications (see

INSTALLING/ADJUSTING in this sub-section).

9. Verify all malfunction codes are closed after ser-

vicing is complete (see appropriate Diagnostic

Trouble Codes (DTC) in this section).

REMOVING

1. Remove the left-side engine cover; then discon-

nect the three-wire TPS connector plug.

PR544

2. Remove the screw securing the TPS to the throttle

body and remove the TPS.

INSTALLING/ADJUSTING

1. Place the TPS into position on the throttle body and

secure with the screw. Do not tighten at this time.

2. Connect the TPS Multi-Analyzer Harness connec-

tor #8 to the TPS; then connect the harness to the

TPS Analyzer Tool.

CAUTION

Always make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion before disconnecting the ECU.

CAUTION

Always make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion before disconnecting the ECU.

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5-18

FI672

3. Using a multimeter, conn ect the black tester lead

to the black socket (GND) on the analyzer and the

red tester lead to the white socket (VAR); then

select the Voltage position.

FI673A

4. Adjust the TPS until a reading of 0.68 DC volt is

obtained; then tighten the screw securely. Open

and close the throttle and determine the reading

returns to 0.68 DC volt. Readjust as necessary.

FI674

5. Disconnect the harness from the analyzer; then

disconnect the harness from the TPS and recon-

nect the TPS main harness connector.

6. Tighten the mounting screw securely.

Throttle Position Sensor

(TPS) (1000 FIS)

INSPECTING

1. Remove the left-side engine cover; then discon-

nect the three-wire TPS connector plug.

PR544

NOTE: Prior to testing the TPS, inspect the

three-wire plug connector on the main harness and

the three-pin plug on the TPS for contamination, bro-

ken pins, and/or corrosion.

2. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion; then select the DC Voltage position on the

meter.

3. Connect the black tester lead to terminal C and the

red tester lead to terminal B. Turn the ignition

switch to the ON position. The meter should read

approximately 5.0 DC volts.

PR538A

4. Remove the red tester lead from terminal B and

connect it to terminal A. The meter should read 0

DC volts.

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

check for poor connections at the ECU or open/bro-

ken wires in the wiring harness.

CAUTION

Always make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion before disconnecting the ECU.

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5-19

5

5. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position; then

disconnect the battery (negative cable first).

6. Select the OHMS position on the meter; then per-

form the following resistance tests on the TPS.

A. Pin (B) to ground - infinity (open circuit).

B. Pin (A) to pin (B) - approximately 1.22k ohms

(throttle closed).

C. Pin (A) to pin (B) - approximately 4.36k ohms

(throttle full-open).

D. Pin (A) to pin (C) - approximately 4.05k ohms.

PR535A

NOTE: If any meter reading is not as specified,

replace or adjust the TPS (see INSTALLING/ADJUST-

ING in this sub-section).

7. Connect the positive lead to the battery; then con-

nect the negative lead.

8. Connect the main harness TPS connector to the

TPS; then using MaxiClips, connect the black tes-

ter lead to the black/green wire and the red tester

lead to the green/black wire.

PR546A

9. Select the DC Voltage position on the meter and

turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter should read approximately 0.60 DC volt

with the throttle closed and approximately 4.0 DC

volts with the throttle in the full-open position.

NOTE: If the meter readings are as specified, check

the main harness connector at the ECU main harness

wiring. If the meter readings are not as specified,

replace the TPS and adjust to specifications (see

INSTALLING/ADJUSTING in this sub-section).

10. Clear all ECU error codes after servicing is com-

plete (see appropriate Diagnostic Trouble Codes

(DTC) in this section).

REMOVING

1. Remove the left-side engine cover; then discon-

nect the three-wire TPS connector plug.

PR544

2. Remove the two screws securing the TPS to the

throttle body and remove the TPS.

INSTALLING/ADJUSTING

1. Place the TPS into position on the throttle body and

secure with the two screws. Do not tighten at this time.

2. Connect the main harness to the TPS.

3. Locate the diagnostic connector under the seat

next to the PDM; then install the test plug from

Test Plug/Code List kit onto the connector.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and

note the position of the TPS indicator icon (A, B,

or C); then adjust the TPS until the TPS icon

appears in the center position (B).

PR542A

CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter. CAUTION

Always make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion before disconnecting the ECU.

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PR540A

PR541A

5. Tighten the mounting screws securely; then verify

the TPS icon appears in the center position (throt-

tle in idle position).

6. Cycle the throttle lever from idle to approximately

half throttle position several times; then return the

throttle to idle. The display should return to (B)

position.

7. Remove the test plug; then install the left-side

engine cover.

Throttle Position Sensor

(TPS) (1000 TRV/1000

Cruiser/1000 Mud Pro)

INSPECTING

1. Remove the seat, side covers, front rack, and front

body panel (see Section 8); then remove the air fil-

ter assembly. Remove the TPS connector plug

from the TPS.

PR544

NOTE: Prior to testing the TPS, inspect the

three-wire plug connector on the main harness

and the three-pin plug on the TPS for contamina-

tion, broken pins, and/or corrosion.

2. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion; then select the DC Voltage position on the

meter.

3. Connect the red tester lead to terminal B and the

black tester lead to terminal A. Turn the ignition

switch to the ON position. The meter should read

approximately 5.0 DC volts.

PR538A

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

check for poor connections at the ECU or

open/broken wires in the wiring harness.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

5. Select the OHMS position on the meter; then per-

form the following resistance tests on the TPS.

A. Pin (B) to ground - infinity (open circuit).

B. Pin (A) to pin (C) - approximately 1k ohms

(throttle closed).

C. Pin (A) to pin (C) - approximately 5k ohms

(throttle full-open).

D. Pin (A) to pin (B) - approximately 5k ohms.

CAUTION

Always make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF

position before disconnecting the ECU.

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5

PR535A

NOTE: If any meter reading is not as specified,

replace or adjust the TPS (see INSTALL-

ING/ADJUSTING in this sub-section).

6. Connect the positive lead to the battery; then con-

nect the negative lead.

7. Connect the main harness TPS connector to the

TPS; then using MaxiClips, connect the black tes-

ter lead to the black/green wire and the red tester

lead to the green/black wire.

PR546A

8. Select the DC Voltage position on the meter and

turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter should read approximately 0.6 DC volt with

the throttle closed and approximately 4.0 DC volts

with the throttle in the full-open position.

NOTE: If the meter readings are as specified,

check the main harness connector at the ECU

main harness wiring. If the meter readings are not

as specified, replace the TPS and adjust to specifi-

cations (see INSTALLING/ADJUSTING in this

sub-section).

9. Verify all malfunction codes are cleared after ser-

vicing is complete (see appropriate Diagnostic

Trouble Codes (DTC) in this section).

REMOVING

1. Remove the left-side engine cover; then discon-

nect the three-wire TPS connector plug.

PR544

2. Remove the screw securing the TPS to the throttle

body and remove the TPS.

INSTALLING/ADJUSTING

1. Place the TPS into position on the throttle body and

secure with the screw. Do not tighten at this time.

2. Connect the TPS Multi-Analyzer Harness connec-

tor #8 to the TPS; then connect the harness to the

TPS Analyzer Tool.

FI672

3. Using a multimeter, connect the black tester lead

to the white socket (VAR) on the analyzer and the

red tester lead to the red socket (+SV); then select

the DC Voltage position.

FI676A

CAUTION

Always make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF

position before disconnecting the ECU.

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5-22

4. Adjust the TPS until a reading of 0.6 DC volt is

obtained; then tighten the screw securely. Open

and close the throttle and determine the reading

returns to 0.6 DC volt. Readjust as necessary.

5. Disconnect the harness from the analyzer; then

disconnect the harness from the TPS and recon-

nect the TPS main harness connector.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes

(DTC) (1000 FIS)

If a sensor fails or an out-of-tolerance signal is sensed by

the ECU, a code will be generated by the ECU. This will

result in the analog needle swinging full scale (if

equipped) or the LCD gauge going blank (if equipped).

The EFI icon will flash.

To read the code(s), use the following procedure.

1. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion; then remove the seat.

2. Locate the diagnostic plug next to the PDM; then

remove the black rubber cap.

3. Connect the Diagnostic Harness to the diagnostic

plug.

ATV- 112

4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and

read the code on the LCD. Refer to the following

Code List to identify the specific problem area.

Code List

NOTE: Each of the following numerical codes will

have a two-letter prefix. A prefix of AC (Active Code)

or SC (Stored Code) will be displayed. Always correct

and clear Active Codes before clearing Stored Codes.

00 = No Fault Detected (active code only)

12 = CKP (Crankshaft Position) Sensor*

13 = APS (Air Pressure Sensor) - H1

13 = MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor - H2

14 = TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

15 = ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor

16 = Speed Sensor

21 = IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) Sensor

23 = Tilt Sensor*

24 = Ignition Coil #1*

26 = Ignition Coil #2* - H2

32 = Fuel Injector #1*

34 = Fuel Injector #2* - H2

40 = ISC (Idle Speed Control) Valve

41 = Fuel Pump Relay*

60 = Cooling Fan Relay

•95 =Sensor Power

96 = Incorrect ECU*

97 = ECU Memory Power (constant battery power)

98 = ECU to Gauge Comm Link - H2

99 = Start/Run Not Possible (active code only)

*Will initiate code 99.

After all active codes are cleared, clear stored code(s)

using the following procedure.

NOTE: The ignition switch should be in the OFF

position.

1. With the diagnostic harness connected to the diag-

nostic plug and the drive select switch in the 4WD

position, hold the reverse override switch down

and turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

2. After ten seconds, release the reverse override

switch and turn the ignition switch to the OFF posi-

tion; then turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

The display should read AC00 (no fault detected).

NOTE: If the LCD still displays a code, continue

troubleshooting the appropriate component.

3. Disconnect the diagnostic harness; then install the

black rubber cap.

4. Install the seat making sure it locks securely in place.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes

(DTC) (450/1000

TRV/1000 Cruiser/1000

Mud Pro)

If an EFI or related chassis component fails or an out-of-toler-

ance signal is detected by the ECU, a trouble code will be

generated in the ECU and displayed on the LCD. For the first

thirty seconds, the LCD will go blank and the code will be

displayed alternately with a wrench icon or malfunction indi-

cator light (MIL). After thirty seconds, the digital display will

return to normal; however, the MIL and trouble code will con-

tinue to flash. On models equipped with the analog gauge, the

needle will swing full-scale for thirty seconds; then return to

normal with the MIL and code continuing to flash.

Code List

NOTE: Each of the following numerical codes will have a

one-letter prefix of C or P. A "C" prefix denotes a chassis

malfunction and a "P" prefix denotes a power train mal-

function.

NOTE: Normal malfunction codes are cleared from

the LCD when the component is replaced or the mal-

function is corrected; however, intermittent codes

must be cleared as noted in the code chart.

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5-23

5

Gauge DTC Wrench Icon Status ECU PIN Input/

Output High/Low Variable Description

C0063(1) D2 I V Tilt Sensor Circuit High

C0064(1) ON D2 I V Tilt Sensor Circuit Low/SG/Open

P0107 ON F2 I V MAP Sensor Circuit Low/SG/Open

P0108 ON F2 I V MAP Sensor Circuit High/SP

P0112 ON F3 I V Intake Air Temp Sensor Circuit Low/SG

P0113 ON F3 I V Intake Air Temp Sensor Circuit High/Open

P0114(1) OFF F3 I V Intake Air Temp Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P0116 ON F4 I V Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

P0117 ON F4 I V Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit Low/SG

P0118 ON F4 I V Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit High/Open/SP

P0119(1) OFF F4 I V Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit Intermittent

P0121 G3 I V Throttle Position Sensor Range/Performance

P0122 ON G3 I V Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Low/SG

P0123 ON G3 I V Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High

P0219 N/A N/A N/A Engine Over-Speed Condition

P0231 ON J1 O L Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Low/SG/Open

P0232 J1 O L Fuel Pump Relay Circuit High

P0233(1) J1 O L Fuel Pump Relay Circuit

P0261(2) ON L4 O L Rear Cylinder Injector Circuit Low/SG

P0262(2) ON L4 O L Rear Cylinder Injector Circuit High

P0263(2) ON L4 O L Rear Cylinder Injector Balance/Open

P0264(2) ON K4 O L Front Cylinder Injector Circuit Low/SG - H2

P0265(2) ON K4 O L Front Cylinder Injector Circuit High - H2

P0266(2) ON K4 O L Front Cylinder Injector Balance/Open - H2

P0336(1) ON D1/E1 I V Crankshaft Angle Sensor Synchronization

P0337(1) ON D1/E1 I V Crankshaft Angle Sensor Circuit/SG

P0339(1) ON D1/E1 I V Crankshaft Angle Sensor Intermittent/Erratic

P0480 K2 O L Fan Relay Control Circuit

P0484 K2 O L Fan Relay Control Circuit High

P0485 ON K2 O L Fan Relay Control Circuit Low/SG/Open

P0500 Gauge Direct Error-Code N/A N/A N/A Vehicle Speed-Sensor

P0508 ON C4/D3/D4/E4 I/O V Idle Air Control System Circuit Low/SG

P0509 ON C4/D4 I/O V Idle Air Control System Circuit High/Open

P0562 L1 I H System Voltage Low

P0563 L1 I H System Voltage High

P0601 N/A N/A N/A ECU Memory Check-Sum Error

P0615(1) L3 O L Starter Relay Circuit

P0616 ON L3 O L Starter Relay Circuit Low

P0617 L3 O L Starter Relay Circuit High

P0630 ON N/A N/A N/A VIN Not Programmed or Incompatible

P0635 Gauge Direct Error-Code N/A N/A N/A Power-Steering Controller Circuit

P0642 A1 O H Sensor Power Circuit Low

P0643 ON A1 O H Sensor Power Circuit High

P0856 Gauge Direct Error-Code N/A N/A N/A Traction Controller Circuit

P2300(2) ON M1 O L Rear Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Low/SG/Open

P2301(2) ON M1 O L Rear Ignition Coil Primary Circuit High

P2303(2) ON M2 O L Front Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Low/Open - H2

P2304(2) ON M2 O L Front Ignition Coil Primary Circuit High - H2

P2531 A4 I H Ignition Switch Circuit Low

P2532 A4 I H Ignition Switch Circuit High

U0155 B1/C1 I/O H/L LCD Gauge Communication Lost

"FUEL OFF" Gauge Direct Error-Code N/A N/A Tilt Sensor Activation Operator-Code

High = Signal Level is too High (Possible Short-to-Battery (+)) Low = Signal Level is too Low (Possible Short-to-Ground or Short-to-Chassis)

SG = Possible Short-to-Ground or Short-to-Chassis SP = Possible Short-to-Power or Short-to-Battery

Open = Open-Circuit (Possible Broken-Wire or No-Connection)

(1): These codes cleared by one complete power-cycle only (key-off, power-latch, key-on):

C0063, C0064, P0114, P0119, P0233, P0336, P0337, P0339, P0615

(2): These codes cleared by one complete starting-cycle only (key-off, power-latch, key-on, start, key-off, power-latch, key-on):

C0261, P0262, P0263, P0264, P0265, P0266, P2300, P2301, P2303, P2304

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Troubleshooting

Problem: Spark absent or weak

Condition Remedy

1. Ignition coil defective

2. Spark plug defective

3. Magneto defective

4. ECU defective

5. Pick-up coil defective

1. Replace ignition coil

2. Replace plug

3. Replace stator coil

4. Replace ECU

5. Replace stator coil

Problem: Spark plug fouled with carbon

Condition Remedy

1. Gasoline incorrect

2. Air cleaner element dirty

3. Spark plug incorrect (too cold)

4. Valve seals cracked - missing

5. Oil rings worn - broken

1. Change to correct gasoline

2. Clean element

3. Replace plug

4. Replace seals

5. Replace rings

Problem: Spark plug electrodes overheat or burn

Condition Remedy

1. Spark plug incorrect (too hot)

2. Engine overheats

3. Spark plug loose

1. Replace plug

2. Service cooling system

3. Tighten plug

Problem: Magneto does not charge

Condition Remedy

1. Lead wires/connections shorted - loose - open

2. Magneto coils shorted - grounded - open

3. Regulator/rectifier defective

1. Repair - replace - tighten lead wires

2. Replace magneto coils

3. Replace regulator/rectifier

Problem: Magneto charges, but charging rate is below the specification

Condition Remedy

1. Lead wires shorted - open - loose (at terminals)

2. Stator coil (magneto) grounded - open

3. Regulator/rectifier defective

4. Cell plates (battery) defective

1. Repair - tighten lead wires

2. Replace stator coil

3. Replace regulator/rectifier

4. Replace battery

Problem: Magneto overcharges

Condition Remedy

1. Internal battery short circuited

2. Regulator/rectifier resistor damaged - defective

3. Regulator/rectifier poorly grounded

1. Replace battery

2. Replace resistor

3. Clean - tighten ground connection

Problem: Charging unstable

Condition Remedy

1. Lead wire intermittently shorting

2. Magneto internally shorted

3. Regulator/rectifier defective

1. Replace lead wire

2. Replace stator coil

3. Replace regulator/rectifier

Problem: Starter button not effective

Condition Remedy

1. Battery charge low

2. Switch contacts defective

3. Starter relay defective

4. Emergency stop - ignition switch off

5. Wiring connections loose - disconnected

1. Charge - replace battery

2. Replace switch

3. Replace relay

4. Turn on switches

5. Connect - tighten - repair connections

Problem: Battery "sulfation" (Acidic white powdery substance or spots on surfaces of cell plates)

Condition Remedy

1. Charging rate too low - too high

2. Battery run-down - damaged

3. Electrolyte contaminated

1. Replace battery

2. Replace battery

3. Replace battery

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5

Problem: Battery discharges too rapidly

Condition Remedy

1. Charging system not charging

2. Cell plates overcharged - damaged

3. Battery short-circuited

4. Electrolyte contaminated

1. Check magneto - regulator/rectifier - circuit connections

2. Replace battery - correct charging system

3. Replace battery

4. Replace battery

Problem: Battery polarity reversed

Condition Remedy

1. Battery incorrectly connected 1. Reverse connections - replace battery - repair damage

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6-1

6

SECTION 6 - DRIVE SYSTEM/

BRAKE SYSTEM

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Drive System/Brake System.................................... 6-2

Front Drive Actuator/Differential Lock...................... 6-2

Front Differential...................................................... 6-3

Drive Axles ............................................................ 6-16

Rear Gear Case .................................................... 6-19

Hub........................................................................ 6-22

Hand Brake Lever/Master Cylinder Assembly....... 6-23

Hydraulic Brake Caliper......................................... 6-24

Troubleshooting Drive System............................... 6-28

Troubleshooting Brake System.............................. 6-28

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6-2

Drive System/Brake

System

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used in

this section are used for clarity purposes only and

are not designed to depict actual conditions.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located in

Section 1.

NOTE: Specifications regarding the gear cases

(capacities, lubricant type, etc.) can be found in Sec-

tion 1 of this manual.

GENERAL INFORMATION

All gear cases are tagged beneath a cover bolt. This tag is

marked with a production date code, sequence code, and

a ratio code.

A. A "6" or "3.6" on the lower-right corner indicates

a 3.6:1 gear set ratio (10:36 teeth).

B. A "1" or "3.1" on the lower-right corner indicates

a 3.1:1 gear set ratio (11:34 teeth).

The die-cast aluminum housings have been assembled

with thread-rolling screws (trilobular). When assembling

with these screws, start the screws carefully into the

housing; then use the following torque values.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the techni-

cian when performing service procedures in this section.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Department.

Front Drive

Actuator/Differential

Lock

NOTE: The actuator is not a serviceable compo-

nent. If it is defective, it must be replaced.

NOTE: The actuator will operate only when the igni-

tion switch is in the ON position.

The front drive actuator is located on the side of the front

drive input housing. With the engine stopped and the

ignition switch in the ON position, a momentary "whir-

ring" sound can be heard each time the drive select

switch is shifted or the differ ential lock is activated. If no

sound is heard, see Section 5. If the actuator runs con-

stantly or makes squealing or grinding sounds, the actua-

tor must be replaced.

REMOVING

1. Disconnect the connector on the actuator harness.

2. Using a T-30 torx wrench, remove the mounting cap

screw from the driveshaft side of the actuator.

AG926

3. Remove the mounting cap screw from below the

actuator on the suspension side.

AG927

4. Loosen but do not remove the mounting cap screw at

the front of the actuator; then slide the actuator to the

rear enough to clear the slotted mounting tab and the

selector shaft.

Ring Gear Backlash 0.28-0.38 mm (0.011-0.015 in.)

Ring Gear End Play 0.1-0.2 mm (0.004-0.008 in.)

Size New Housing Reassembled

Housing

M6 (Torx T-30 Recess) 8-9.5 ft-lb 6.5-9 ft-lb

M8 (Torx T-40 Recess) 25-31 ft-lb 21-25 ft-lb

M10 (Torx T-50 Recess) 37-45.5 ft-lb 31-38 ft-lb

Description p/n

Backlash Measuring Tool (24-Spline Axle) 0544-010

Backlash Measuring Tool (27-Spline Axle) 0544-011

CV Boot Clamp Tool 0444-120

Internal Hex Socket 0444-104

Pinion Gear/Shaft Removal Tool 0444-127

Gear Case Seal Installer Tool 0444-224

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6

AG928

INSTALLING

NOTE: Make sure to properly align the differential

lock actuator lever with the hole in the differential

lock plunger.

1. Lubricate the O-rings on the actuator; then ensure

that all mounting surfaces are clean and free of

debris.

2. Align the actuator with the selector shaft and slide it

forward onto the shaft taking care to engage the cap

screw in the slot of the front mounting tab.

AG925

3. While holding the actuator firmly forward, tighten

the front cap screw to hold the actuator in place; then

install but do not tighten the two remaining cap

screws.

AG928

4. Loosen the front cap screw; then tighten the cap

screw on the driveshaft side.

AG926

NOTE: It is important to tighten this cap screw while

the others are loose to ensure proper seating of the

actuator.

5. Tighten the remaining cap screws; then connect the

electrical plug to the main harness.

6. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and

check the operation by shifting the drive select

switch several times.

7. Secure the wiring harness to the frame with a nylon

cable tie.

Front Differential

NOTE: To remove the rear gear case, see Rear Gear

Case in this section.

REMOVING DIFFERENTIAL

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

2. Remove the drain plug and drain the gear lubricant

into a drain pan; then reinstall the plug and tighten to

45 in.-lb.

ATV0082A

3. Remove the front wheels.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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6-4

4. Pump up the hand brake; then engage the brake lever

lock.

5. Remove the cotter pin securing the hex nut; then

remove the hex nut and washer.

KX041

6. Release the brake lever lock.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake

hoses from the calipers for this procedure.

7. Remove the two brake calipers. Account for the four

cap screws.

AF894D

8. Remove the tie rod cotter pins and discard the pins.

AF895D

9. Remove the tie rod lock nuts.

AF896D

10. Remove the upper ball joint cap screws taking care

not to strip the threads on the ball joint shaft; then

using a rubber mallet, tap the end of the axle and free

it from the knuckle assembly.

AF628D

11. Pull the steering knuckle away from the axle.

KX151

12. Support the axle to not allow it to drop or hang.

13. Remove the lower shock bolts. Account for the lock

nuts; then move the shocks aside and secure them

with a strap.

CAUTION

The axle must be supported. If the axle is allowed to

drop or hang, damage to the inner CV joint may occur.

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6-5

6

AF897D

14. Remove the upper A-arm lock nuts and cap screws;

then remove the A-arms.

AF610D

15. Push the axle shaft firmly toward the differential to

release the internal lock; then while holding the axle

in, pull the CV cup from the differential.

PR729B

PR725A

16. Remove the inner fender panels.

17. Using a T-30 torx wrench, remove the three screws

securing the front drive actuator to the gear case;

then remove the actuator.

AG925

18. Remove the lower differential mounting cap screw.

Account for a lock nut and washers.

CD026

19. Remove the upper differential mounting cap screws.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to use a slide hammer or differential/axle

damage will occur.

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6-6

CD016

20. Free the differential assembly from the frame mount-

ings; then shift the differential assembly forward

enough to disengage the front driveshaft from the

output yoke.

KX161

21. Place the differential on its right side; then remove it

from the frame.

KX159

Disassembling Input Shaft

NOTE: This procedure can be performed on a rear

gear case; however, some components may vary

from model to model. The technician should use dis-

cretion and sound judgment.

1. Using a T-40 torx wrench, remove the cap screws

securing the pinion housing.

GC004A

2. Using a rubber mallet, remove the housing. Account

for a gasket. Remove the fork, collar, and spring.

Note the location of all the components for assem-

bling purposes.

GC015

CD106

3. Using a boot-clamp pliers (or suitable substitute),

remove the boot clamps; then remove the boots and

splined drive from the input shaft.

4. Remove the snap ring; then remove the input shaft

from the pinion housing.

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6-7

6

CD107

5. Using a seal removal tool, remove the input shaft

seal. Account for a spacer.

GC010

6. Remove the snap ring securing the input shaft bear-

ing; then place the pinion housing in a press and

remove the bearing.

GC011

AF984

KX219

Assembling Input Shaft

1. Place the pinion housing in a press and install the

input shaft bearing. Secure the bearing with the

existing snap ring making sure the sharp edge of the

snap ring faces to the outside.

GC012

GC011

2. Install the input shaft seal making sure it is fully

seated in the housing.

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6-8

GC014

3. Lubricate the input shaft with High-Performance #2

Molybdenum Disulphide Grease packing the boot

ribs and splines; then assemble allowing excess

grease to freely escape. Slight pressure on the boot

will be present during assembly. Secure with new

clamps.

NOTE: Any time drive splines are separated, clean

all splines with parts-cleaning solvent and dry with

compressed air; then lubricate with recommended

grease.

GC009A

4. Install the input shaft into the pinion housing and

secure with the snap ring; then install the front boot

and secure with an appropriate boot clamp and the

rear boot with an appropriate boot clamp.

CD112

CD099

5. Place the pinion housing with new gasket onto the

gear case housing; then secure with the existing cap

screws. Tighten to 23 ft-lb.

NOTE: If a new gear case housing is being installed,

tighten the cap screws to 25-31 ft-lb.

CD103

Disassembling Differential Assembly

NOTE: This procedure can be performed on a rear

gear case.

1. Using a T-40 torx wrench, remove the cap screws

securing the pinion housing. Account for the coupler,

fork, and spring (differential only).

GC015

2. Using a T-40 torx wrench, remove the cap screws

securing the differential cover. Account for and make

note of the ID tag location for assembling purposes.

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6-9

6

GC003

3. Using a plastic mallet, tap lightly to remove the dif-

ferential cover. Account for an O-ring.

KX174

NOTE: If the cover is difficult to remove, pry on

the cover in more than one recessed location.

4. Remove the splined coupler, shifter fork, pin, and

spring of the differential lock assembly and set aside.

Note position of parts for assembling purposes.

KX175

5. Remove the left differential bearing flange assembly

and account for a shim. Mark the shim as left-side.

KX177

KX178

6. Place the differential with the open side down; then

lift the housing off the spider assembly. Account for

shim(s) and mark as right-side.

KX179

KX181

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6-10

Disassembling Pinion Gear

NOTE: Any service of the pinion gear or related

bearings will require a new gear case/differential

housing. The removal of the lock collar severely dam-

ages the threads in the housing.

1. Using the 48 mm Internal Hex Socket, remove the

lock collar securing the pinion gear assembly.

CC875

CC876

2. Using the Pinion Gear/Shaft Removal Tool and a

hammer, remove the pinion gear from the gear case

housing.

CC878

3. Secure the pinion gear in a bearing puller; then

remove the pinion bearing using a press. Account for

a collar and a bearing.

CC879

4. Remove any reusable parts from the gear case hous-

ing; then discard the housing and lock collar.

Assembling Pinion Gear

1. Install the bearing onto the pinion shaft. Install the

pinion shaft collar.

CC882

CC883

2. Place the pinion assembly in a bearing puller; then

install the bearing using a press.

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6

CC884

3. Coat a new needle bearing and the bearing pocket of

a new gear case/differential housing with red Loctite

#271; then using a suitable driver, install the bearing

lightly seated against the bearing seats. Do not push

the bearing too far into the pocket.

GC044

4. Install the pinion gear assembly into the housing.

Using the 48 mm Internal Hex Socket, secure the

pinion gear assembly with the existing lock collar.

Tighten to 125 ft-lb.

NOTE: On a front differential, the lock collar has

right-hand threads. On a rear drive gear case, the

lock collar has left-hand threads or a snap-ring.

CC890

5. Place a punch on the edge of the lock collar in the oil

gallery area; then using a hammer, stake the lock col-

lar to ensure that the collar will remain securely

tightened.

CC891

Shimming Procedure/Shim Selection

It is very important to adjust bevel gears for the proper

running tolerances. Gear life and gear noise are greatly

affected by these tolerances; therefore, it is very impor-

tant to properly adjust any gear set prior to final assem-

bly.

The following procedure can be used on both front differ-

ential or rear drive gear case.

NOTE: All bearings must be installed in the gear

case and the pinion properly installed before pro-

ceeding.

Backlash

NOTE: Always set backlash prior to any other shim-

ming.

1. Install the existing shim or a 0.051-0.055-in. shim on

the gear case side of the ring gear assembly.

Case-side Shims (Backlash)

p/n mm in.

0402-405 1.3 0.051

0402-406 1.4 0.055

0402-407 1.5 0.059

0402-408 1.6 0.063

0402-409 1.7 0.067

Cover-side Shims (Ring Gear End-Play)

p/n mm in.

1402-074 1.3 0.051

1402-075 1.4 0.055

1402-076 1.5 0.059

1402-077 1.6 0.063

1402-078 1.7 0.067

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6-12

GC031A

2. Install the ring gear with shim in the gear case; then

while holding the pinion stationary, rock the ring

gear forward and back to determine if any backlash

exists. If no backlash exists, install a thicker shim

and recheck.

GC036A

3. Install the bearing flange onto the gear case cover

making sure the alignment/locating pin engages the

locating hole in the cover; then make sure the bear-

ing flange is completely seated in the cover.

GC032A

GC033A

4. Install the existing shim or a 0.063 in. shim on the

cover side of the ring gear ; then place the assembled

gear case cover onto the gear case and secure with

three cap screws. Tighten evenly using a crisscross

pattern.

GC036B

5. Place the appropriate Backlash Measuring Tool into

the splines of the ring gear and install a dial indicator

making sure it contacts the gauge at a 90° angle and

on the index mark.

GC040

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6

GC039A

6. Zero the dial indicator; then while holding the pinion

stationary, rock the ring gear assembly forward and

back and record the backlash. Backlash must be

0.011-0.015 in. If backlash is within specifications,

proceed to Ring Gear End-Play. If backlash is not

within specifications, increase shim thickness to

increase backlash or decrease shim thickness to

decrease backlash.

NOTE: Higher backlash settings usually result in

quieter gear operation.

GC037A

Ring Gear End-Play

After correcting backlash, ring gear end-play can be

adjusted. To adjust end-play, use the following proce-

dure.

1. Secure the gear case in a holding fixture with the

cover side up; then install a dial indicator contacting

the ring gear axle flange.

GC035

2. Zero the dial indicator; then push the ring gear

toward the dial indicator and release. End-play

should be 0.004-0.008 in.

3. To increase end-play, decrease the shim thickness.

To decrease end-play, increase the shim thickness.

NOTE: Once proper backlash and end play are

established, the gear case can be assembled (see

Assembling Differential Assembly in this sub-sec-

tion).

CC888

Assembling Differential Assembly

1. With the pinion gear and new bearings installed,

place the selected (backlash) shim on the gear case

side of the ring gear with the chamfered side toward

the ring gear; then install into gear case/differential

housing.

GC031A

GC020

2. Place the selected (end-play) shim, chamfered side

toward the gear, onto the cover side of the ring gear.

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6-14

GC036B

NOTE: The spider and ring gear assembly must be

replaced as a complete unit.

3. Assemble the fork and sliding collar into the cover

assembly; then install the left bearing flange/bearing

assembly and seat firmly into the cover.

CF266A

CF267A

4. Apply a liberal coat of grease to the O-ring; then

install it on the assembled cover assembly making

sure to seat the O-ring co mpletely down around the

circumference of the bearing flange.

CF275A

5. Making sure the O-ring is properly positioned on the

differential housing cover assembly, install the cover

with existing cap screws (coated with green Loctite

#609). Account for the ID tag. Tighten the cap

screws evenly to 23 ft-lb.

NOTE: Grease can be applied to the O-ring for ease

of assembling.

NOTE: If a new housing is being installed, tighten

the cap screws to 28 ft-lb.

6. Install the shift fork shaft w/spring into the housing

making sure the shaft O-ring is positioned to the

inside.

CC892

7. Install the shift fork asse mbly making sure the fork

leg is facing upward. Apply a small amount of oil to

the gasket; then install the gasket.

CC893

8. Place the input shaft assembly onto the gear case

housing; then secure with the existing cap screws.

Tighten to 23 ft-lb.

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6-15

6

NOTE: If a new housing is being installed, tighten

the cap screws to 28 ft-lb.

CD103

CD110

Removing/Installing Axle Seal

NOTE: This procedure can be performed on a rear

gear case.

1. Remove the seal using a seal removal tool.

CC899

NOTE: Prior to installing the seal, apply High-Per-

formance #2 Molybdenum Disulphide grease to the

seal outside diameter.

2. Using Gear Case Seal Installer Tool, evenly press the

seal into the cover bore until properly seated.

CF278

3. Repeat steps 1-2 for the opposite side.

INSTALLING DIFFERENTIAL

1. Align the splined input yoke with the front output

splines; then place the differential into position on

the frame and install the cap screws (coated with

blue Loctite #243), washers, and flex-lock nuts.

Tighten to 38 ft-lb. Make sure the rubber boot is

properly seated on the input yoke.

CD857

CD859

2. Pour 275 ml (9.3 fl oz) of SAE 80W-90 hypoid gear

lubricant into the differential and install the fill plug.

Tighten to 16 ft-lb.

3. Install the front drive actuator with the three

torx-head cap screws; then connect the wire connec-

tor to the main wiring harness.

CAUTION

Make sure the tool is free of nicks or sharp edges or

damage to the seal may occur.

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6-16

AG925

4. Install the inner fender panels.

5. Install the front axles (see Drive Axles in this sec-

tion).

6. Secure the upper A-arms with cap screws and lock

nuts. Tighten to 50 ft-lb.

AF610D

7. Secure the lower shock eyelets with cap screws and

lock nuts. Tighten to 50 ft-lb.

AF897D

8. Secure the tie rods with the lock nuts. Tighten to 30

ft-lb; then install and spread the cotter pins.

AF896D

AF895D

9. Install the brake calipers and secure with new

"patch-lock" cap screws tightened to 20 ft-lb.

AF894D

10. Install the wheels and tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel

wheels) or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

11. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Drive Axles

REMOVING REAR DRIVE AXLE

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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6-17

6

2. Pump up the hand brake; then engage the brake lever

lock.

3. Remove the wheel.

4. Remove the cotter pin securing the hex nut; then

remove the hex nut. Release the brake lever lock.

KX041

5. Remove the two brake calipers (right side only).

NOTE: Do not allow the brake calipers to hang from

their cable/hose.

6. Slide the hub out of the knuckle and set aside.

7. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the

knuckle to the upper A-arm. Discard the lock nut.

NOTE: Never reuse a lock nut. Once a lock nut has

been removed, it must be replaced with a new lock

nut.

8. While holding the drive axle stationary, pull the top

of the knuckle out and down until it is free of the

drive axle.

9. Place a drain pan under the ATV to contain any oil

leakage.

10. Push the axle shaft firmly toward the gear case to

release the internal lock; then while holding the axle

in, pull the CV cup from the gear case.

PR729B

PR725A

REMOVING FRONT DRIVE AXLE

NOTE: For removing a front drive axle, see Front

Differential in this section.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Always clean and inspect the drive axle com-

ponents to determine if any service or replacement is

necessary.

1. Using a clean towel, wipe away any oil or grease

from the axle components.

CD019

2. Inspect boots for any tears, cracks, or deterioration.

NOTE: If a boot is damaged in any way, it must be

replaced with a boot kit.

3. Inspect the gear case seals for nicks or damage.

CAUTION

The calipers should be supported. If the calipers are

allowed to hang from the cable/hose, damage may

occur.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to use a slide hammer or gear case/axle

damage will occur.

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6-18

DISASSEMBLING/INSPECTING/ASSE-

MBLING AXLES

To disassemble/inspect/assemble the axles, follow the

instruction contained in the appropriate boot repair kit.

INSTALLING REAR DRIVE AXLE

1. Push the axle shaft into the CV cup to release the

detent balls; then while holding the axle firmly in,

push the CV splined end into the gear case.

PR725A

PR729B

NOTE: To assure proper seating of the axle, give it a

light pull; the axle should remain "clipped" in place.

2. Swing the knuckle up and onto the drive axle; then

place the knuckle into place in the upper A-arm.

Secure the knuckle to the A-arm with a cap screw

and a new lock nut. Tighten to 35 ft-lb (450) or to 50

ft-lb (1000).

3. Place the hub into position on the axle followed by a

hex nut. Tighten the hex nut finger-tight at this time.

4. If the brake calipers were removed, position them on

the knuckle and secure with new "patch-lock" cap

screws. Tighten the auxiliary brake caliper cap

screws to 20 ft-lb. Tighten the hydraulic brake cali-

per cap screws to 20 ft-lb.

5. Pump up the hand brake lever; then engage the brake

lever lock.

6. Tighten the hub hex nut (from step 3) to 200 ft-lb;

then install and spread a new cotter pin making sure

each side of the pin is flush to the hex nut.

CD027

7. Install the wheel. Tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel wheels) or

80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

8. Remove the ATV from the support stand and release

the brake lever lock.

INSTALLING FRONT DRIVE AXLE

1. Position the drive axle in the gear case and steering

knuckle; then insert the upper A-arm ball joint into

the steering knuckle. Secure with a cap screw tight-

ened to 50 ft-lb.

2. Place the brake hose into position on the upper

A-arm; then secure the lower shock eyelet to the

A-arm with a cap screw and a new lock nut. Tighten

to 50 ft-lb.

3. Secure the tie rod to the steering knuckle with a new

lock nut. Tighten securely; then install and spread a

new cotter pin.

4. Slide the hub w/brake disc into position in the steer-

ing knuckle followed by a washer and hex nut.

Tighten finger-tight at this time.

5. Install the brake caliper on the steering knuckle using

new "patch-lock" cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb;

then pump up the hand brake lever and engage the

brake lever lock.

6. Tighten the hub hex nut (from step 4) to 200 ft-lb;

then install and spread a new cotter pin making sure

each side of the pin is flush to the hex nut.

CD027

7. Install the wheel and tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel wheels)

or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

8. Remove the ATV from the support stand and release

the brake lever lock.

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6-19

6

9. Check the front differential oil level and add oil as

necessary.

CF113A

Rear Gear Case

REMOVING

1. Remove the left-side rear A-arms (see Rear A-Arms

in Section 7).

2. Remove both of the rear drive axles (see Drive Axles

in this section).

3. Remove the four cap screws securing the engine out-

put shaft to the rear gear case input flange.

CD028

4. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing

the rear gear case to the frame; then remove the gear

case through the left side.

AF960A

RING GEAR/THRUST BUTTON

Removing

1. Remove the cap screws securing the gear case cover

to the gear case; then remove the ring gear.

2. Remove the thrust button from the gear case cover

(left-hand threads). Account for a shim.

Inspecting

1. Inspect the ring gear for excessive wear, missing or

chipped teeth, or discoloration.

2. Inspect the thrust button for excessive wear or dis-

coloration.

3. Inspect the bearings for discoloration, roughness, or

excessive wear.

NOTE: For servicing bearings or seals, see Front

Differential in this section.

Installing/Shimming

NOTE: Ring gear clearance must be adjusted prior

to selecting shim for the thrust button.

1. Install the thrust button with shim into the gear case

cover and tighten securely (left-hand threads).

GC057A

2. Place the ring gear with selected shim into the cover

and measure the ring gear to thrust button clearance

with a thickness gauge. Clearance should be

0.002-0.004 in.

AT THIS POINT

For servicing the input shaft (450), pinion gear, needle

bearing, ring gear, and axle seal, see Front Differential

in this section.

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6-20

GC058A

3. If clearance is as specified, remove the ring gear and

thrust button; then place a drop of red Loctite #271

on the threads and tighten to 8 ft-lb (left-hand

threads).

4. If clearance is not as spec ified, repeat steps 1 and 2

using thicker (clearance too great) or thinner (clear-

ance too small) until corr ect specification is reached.

REAR DRIVE INPUT SHAFT/

HOUSING (1000)

Removing/Disassembling

1. Remove the cap screws securing the rear drive input

shaft/housing to the rear gear case; then remove the

input housing assembly.

GZ183

2. Remove the clutch pack from the clutch basket; then

remove the snap ring securing the clutch basket (A)

to the input shaft (B) and remove the clutch basket.

GZ392

GZ176A

GZ177

3. Remove the input shaft from the input housing; then

remove the oil seal.

GZ180

GZ182A

4. Remove the snap ring retaining the input bearing and

using an appropriate bearin g driver, press the bearing

from the housing.

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6-21

6

GZ184A

Cleaning and Inspecting

1. Wash all parts in parts-cleaning solvent and dry with

compressed air.

2. Clean all gasket material and sealant from mating

surfaces.

3. Inspect bearings, shafts, and housing for excessive

wear, cracks, or discoloration.

4. Inspect the clutch basket for wear in splines or cracks

in the housing.

GZ178A

5. Inspect the clutch pack for signs of discoloration.

NOTE: The clutch pack is not a serviceable compo-

nent. If worn, discolored, or damaged in any way, it

must be replaced.

Assembling/Installing

1. Install a new bearing into the input housing and

secure with the snap ring (flat side directed away

from bearing).

GZ184

2. Using a suitable seal driver, install a new oil seal into

the front of the input housing until the seal flush with

the housing.

GZ182A

3. Apply grease to the lips of the oil seal; then install

the input shaft into the input bearing and housing.

GZ179A

4. Install the clutch basket onto the input shaft and

secure with the snap ring (flat side directed outward);

then install the clutch pack into the basket.

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when working with com-

pressed air.

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6-22

GZ176

5. Using a new gasket, install the assembled rear drive

input shaft/housing onto the rear drive gear case and

secure with the three cap screws. Tighten to 23 ft-lb.

INSTALLING

1. Slide the gear case into position through the left side

of the frame; then secure it to the frame with cap

screws and lock nuts. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.

2. Secure the engine output shaft to the rear gear case

input flange with four cap screws and lock nuts.

Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

3. Install the rear drive axles (see Drive Axles in this

section).

4. Install the left-side rear A-arms (see Rear A-Arms in

Section 7).

Hub

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheel; then remove the wheel.

2. Remove the cotter pin from the nut.

NOTE: During assembly, new cotter pins should be

installed.

KX041

3. Remove the hex nut securing the hub.

4. Remove the brake caliper.

PR243A

5. Remove the hub assembly.

6. Remove the four cap screws securing the brake disc.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all hub components.

2. Inspect all threads for stripping or damage.

3. Inspect the brake disc for cracks or warping.

4. Inspect the hub for pits, cracks, loose studs, or spline

wear.

INSTALLING

1. Secure the brake disc to the hub with the four cap

screws coated with blue Loctite #243. Tighten to 15

ft-lb.

2. Apply grease to the splines in the hub.

3. Install the hub assembly onto the shaft.

PR290

4. Secure the hub assembly with the hex nut. Tighten

only until snug.

5. Secure the brake caliper to the knuckle with two new

"patch-lock" cap screws. Tighten the auxiliary cali-

per to 20 ft-lb. Tighten the hydraulic caliper to 20

ft-lb.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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6-23

6

PR243A

6. Tighten the hex nut (from step 4) to 200 ft-lb; then

install and spread a new cotter pin making sure each

side of the pin is flush to the hex nut.

NOTE: If the cotter pin does not line up, always

tighten to the next alignment.

PR260

7. Install the wheel and tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel wheels)

or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

8. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Hand Brake Lever/Master

Cylinder Assembly

NOTE: The master cylinder is a non-serviceable

component; it must be replaced as an assembly.

REMOVING

1. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over one of the wheel

bleeder valves and direct the other end into a con-

tainer. Remove the reservoir cover; then open the

bleeder valve. Allow the brake fluid to drain com-

pletely.

NOTE: Compressing the brake lever several times

will quicken the draining process.

AF637D

2. Place an absorbent towel around the connection to

absorb brake fluid. Remove the banjo-fitting from

the master cylinder. Account for two crush washers

and a banjo-fitting bolt.

DE059A

3. Remove the snap ring and pivot pin securing the

brake lever to the master cylinder housing; then

remove the brake lever and set aside.

4. Dislodge the brakelight switch from the master cyl-

inder housing by gently pressing it toward the pivot

pin hole in the housing; then lay it aside leaving the

switch and wiring harness connected.

BC205

5. Remove the clamp screws securing the brake hous-

ing to the handlebar; then remove the assembly from

the handlebar.

CAUTION

Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake fluid

on any surface of the ATV.

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6-24

DE058A

INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Inspect the pin securing the brake lever for wear.

2. Inspect the brake lever for elongation of the pivot

hole.

3. Inspect the reservoir for cracks and leakage.

4. Inspect the banjo-fitting for cracks and deterioration

and the condition of the fittings (threaded and com-

pression).

5. Inspect the brakelight switch for corrosion, cracks,

missing or broken mounting tabs, or broken and

frayed wiring.

NOTE: If the brakelight switch is determined to be

not serviceable, see Section 5.

INSTALLING

1. Position the brake housing on the handlebar. Secure

with clamp screws; then tighten securely.

DE058A

2. Using two new crush washers, connect the banjo-fit-

ting to the master cylinder; then secure with the

banjo-fitting bolt. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

DE059A

3. Gently press the brakelight switch into the housing

(left to right) until the mounting tabs snap into the

four locating holes; then install the brake lever, pivot

pin, and snap ring.

BC206

4. Bleed the brake system (see Section 2).

Hydraulic Brake Caliper

REMOVING/DISASSEMBLING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheel; then remove the wheel.

2. Drain the brake fluid from the caliper, hose, and

master cylinder through the bleed screw by pumping

the brake lever/pedal.

! WARNING

Arctic Cat recommends that only authorized Arctic Cat

ATV dealers perform hydraulic brake service. Failure to

properly repair brake systems can result in loss of con-

trol causing severe injury or death.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

! WARNING

Never let brake fluid contact the eyes. Damage to the

eyes will occur. Always wear appropriate protective

safety goggles and latex gloves when handling brake

fluid.

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6-25

6

PR235

NOTE: Whenever brake components are removed,

disassembled, or repaired where brake fluid is

exposed to air, drain all fluid and replace with new

DOT 4 brake fluid from an unopened container. Brake

fluid readily absorbs moisture from the air signifi-

cantly lowering the boiling point. This increases the

chance of vapor lock reducing braking power and

increasing stopping distance.

3. Remove the brake hose fr om the caliper and close

the bleed screw; then remove the caliper.

4. Compress the caliper holder against the caliper

(opposite the O-ring side) and remove the outer

brake pad; then remove the inner brake pad.

NOTE: If brake pads are to be returned to service,

do not allow brake fluid to contaminate them.

PR237A

PR238

5. Remove the caliper holder from the caliper and dis-

card the O-ring.

PR239B

NOTE: The O-ring is used for shipping purposes

and provides no function in operation.

6. Cover the piston end of the housing with a shop

towel; then keeping fingers clear of piston travel,

apply compressed air to the fluid port to blow the

piston free of the housing. Account for two seal

rings in the housing.

PR713A

CAUTION

Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake fluid

on any surface of the ATV and do not reuse brake fluid.

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6-26

PR715

7. Using an appropriate seal removal tool, carefully

remove the seals from the brake caliper housing; then

remove four O-rings from the brake caliper housing

noting the location of the different sized O-rings. Dis-

card all seals, O-rings, and crush washers.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

1. Clean all caliper components (except the brake pads)

with DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not wipe dry.

2. Inspect the brake pads for damage and excessive

wear.

NOTE: For measuring brake pads, see Section 2.

3. Inspect the brake caliper housings for scoring in the

piston bores, chipped seal ring grooves, or signs of

corrosion or discoloration.

4. Inspect the piston surface for scoring, discoloration,

or evidence of binding or galling.

5. Inspect the caliper holder for wear or bending.

ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING

1. Install new seals into the brake caliper housing and

apply a liberal amount of DOT 4 brake fluid to the

cylinder bore of the housing, seals, and brake piston.

PR715

PR717A

2. Press the piston into the caliper housing using hand

pressure only. Completely seat the piston; then wipe

off any excessive brake fluid.

PR711A

PR712

3. Apply high-temperature silicone grease (supplied

with the O-ring kit) to the inside of the caliper holder

bores and O-rings; then install the four O-rings into

the caliper.

PR719C

! WARNING

Make sure to hold the towel firmly in place or the piston

could be ejected from the housing causing injury.

CAUTION

Make sure the seals are properly in place and did not

twist or roll during installation.

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6-27

6

4. Install the caliper onto the caliper holder making sure

the caliper and holder are correctly oriented.

NOTE: It is very important to apply silicone grease

to the O-rings and caliper bores prior to assembly.

PR239C

5. Making sure brake fluid does not contact the brake pads,

compress the caliper holder toward the caliper and

install the inner brake pad; then install the outer pad.

PR238

PR239

6. Place the brake caliper assembly into position and

secure with new "patch-lock" cap screws. Tighten

the caliper to 20 ft-lb.

7. Place a new crush washer on each side of the brake

hose fitting and install it on the caliper. Tighten to 20

ft-lb.

8. Fill the reservoir; then bleed the brake system (see

Section 2).

9. Install the wheel. Tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel wheels) or

80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

10. Remove the ATV from the support stand and verify

brake operation.

CAUTION

If brake pads become contaminated with brake fluid, they

must be thoroughly cleaned with brake cleaning solvent

or replaced with new pads. Failure to do so will result in

reduced braking and premature brake pad failure.

! WARNING

Never use brake fluid from an open container or reuse

brake fluid. Mois ture-contaminated brake fluid could

cause vapor build-up (expansion) during hard braking

resulting in greatly increased stopping distance or loss

of control leading to injury or death.

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6-28

Troubleshooting Drive

System

Troubleshooting Brake

System

Problem: Power not transmitted from engine to wheels

Condition Remedy

1. Rear axle shafts serration worn - broken 1. Replace shaft

Problem: Power not transmitted from engine to either front wheel

Condition Remedy

1. Secondary drive - driven gear teeth broken

2. Propeller shaft serration worn - broken

3. Coupling damaged

4. Coupling joint serration worn - damaged

5. Front drive - driven bevel gears broken - damaged

6. Front differential gears/pinions broken - damaged

7. Sliding dogs/shaft fork worn - damaged

8. Front drive axle worn - damaged

9. Front drive axle serration worn - damaged

1. Replace gear(s)

2. Replace shaft

3. Replace coupling

4. Replace joint

5. Replace gear(s)

6. Replace gears - pinions

7. Replace gear(s)

8. Replace axle

9. Replace axle

Problem: Braking poor

Condition Remedy

1. Pad worn

2. Pedal free-play excessive

3. Brake fluid leaking

4. Hydraulic system spongy

5. Master cylinder/brake cylinder seal worn

1. Replace pads

2. Replace pads

3. Repair - replace hydraulic system component(s)

4. Bleed hydraulic system - correct or repair leaks

5. Replace master cylinder

Problem: Brake lever travel excessive

Condition Remedy

1. Hydraulic system entrapped air

2. Brake fluid low

3. Brake fluid incorrect

4. Piston seal - cup worn

1. Bleed hydraulic system

2. Add fluid to proper level

3. Drain system - replace with correct fluid

4. Replace master cylinder

Problem: Brake fluid leaking

Condition Remedy

1. Connection joints loose

2. Hose cracked

3. Piston seal worn

1. Tighten joint

2. Replace hose

3. Replace brake caliper

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7-1

7

SECTION 7 - SUSPENSION

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Suspension ............................................................. 7-2

Shock Absorbers ..................................................... 7-2

Front A-Arms ........................................................... 7-3

Rear A-Arms ........................................................... 7-5

Wheels and Tires .................................................... 7-7

Troubleshooting ....................................................... 7-8

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7-2

Suspension

The following suspension system comp onents should be

inspected periodically to ensure proper operation.

A. Shock absorber rods not bent, pitted, or damaged.

B. Rubber damper not cracked, broken, or missing.

C. Shock absorber body not damaged, punctured, or

leaking.

D. Shock absorber eyelets not broken, bent, or

cracked.

E. Shock absorber eyelet bushings not worn, deterio-

rated, cracked, or missing.

F. Shock absorber spring not broken or sagging.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located in

Section 1.

Shock Absorbers

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels and to release load on the suspension.

2. Remove the two cap screws and nuts securing each

front shock absorber to the frame and the upper

A-arm. Account for bushings and sleeves from each.

AF605D

3. Remove the two cap screws and nut securing each

rear shock absorber to the frame and lower A-arm.

Account for bushings and sleeves from each.

AF626D

4. Compress the shock absorber spring, remove the

retainer, and remove the spring.

AF730D

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all shock absorber components using a pres-

sure washer.

2. Inspect each shock rod for nicks, pits, rust, bends,

and oily residue.

3. Inspect all springs, spring retainers, shock rods,

sleeves, bushings, shock bodies, and eyelets for

cracks, leaks, and bends.

INSTALLING

1. Place the shock absorber spring over the shock

absorber, compress the spring, and install the

retainer.

2. Place bushings and sleeves (where appropriate) into

shock eyelet; then install shock with two cap screws

and nuts. Tighten all front suspension nuts to 50

ft-lb. Tighten rear suspension nuts (upper) to 50 ft-lb;

tighten lower shock-to-A-arm nuts to 20 ft-lb.

NOTE: The rear shock absorber-to-lower A-arm

torque factor is 20 ft-lb.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

CAUTION

Additional support stands are necessary to support the

rear axle when the shock absorbers are removed or

damage may occur.

CAUTION

Do not tighten the nuts beyond the recommended spec-

ification or the shock eyelet or mount WILL be dam-

aged.

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7-3

7

3. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Front A-Arms

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

front wheels; then remove the wheels.

2. Remove the cotter pin from the nut. Discard the cot-

ter pin.

CD008

3. Remove the nut securing the hub.

4. Remove the brake caliper. Account for two cap

screws.

PR377B

NOTE: Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from

the cable/hose.

5. Remove the hub assembly.

6. Remove the cotter pin and slotted nut securing the tie

rod end to the knuckle; then remove the tie rod end

from the knuckle.

AF618D

7. Remove the cap screws securing the ball joints to the

knuckle.

PR203

8. Tap the ball joints out of the knuckle; then remove

the knuckle.

9. Remove the lower shock absorber eyelet from the

upper A-arm.

10. Remove the cap screws securing the A-arms to the

frame.

AF610D

11. Remove the circlip from the ball joint; then remove

the ball joint from the A-arm.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

CAUTION

Support the knuckle when removing the cap screws or

damage to the threads will occur.

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7-4

AF616D

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all A-arm components using a pressure

washer.

2. Clean the ball joint mounting hole of all residual

Loctite, grease, oil, or dirt for installing purposes.

3. Inspect the A-arm for bends, cracks, and worn bush-

ings.

4. Inspect the ball joint mounting holes for cracks or

damage.

5. Inspect the frame mounts for signs of damage, wear,

or weldment damage.

INSTALLING

1. Apply Loctite Primer "T" to the arm socket; then

apply green Loctite #609 to the entire outside diame-

ter of the ball joint. Install the ball joint into the

A-arm and secure with the snap ring.

AF616D

2. Install the A-arm assemblies into the frame mounts

and secure with the cap screws. Only finger-tighten

at this time.

AF610D

3. Route the brake hose through the upper A-arm shock

absorber mount; then secure the hose to the A-arm

with a cable tie and grommet.

DE054A

4. Secure the lower eyelet of the shock absorber to the

upper A-arm. Tighten nut to 50 ft-lb.

5. Secure the A-arm assemblies to the frame mounts

(from step 2). Tighten the cap screws to 50 ft-lb.

6. Install the knuckle assembly onto the ball joints and

secure with cap screws. Tighten to 35 ft-lb.

AF628D

7. Install the tie rod end and secure with the nut.

Tighten to 30 ft-lb; then install a new cotter pin and

spread the pin to secure the nut.

NOTE: During assembly, new cotter pins should be

installed.

CAUTION

Do not tighten the nut beyond the 50 ft-lb specification

or the shock eyelet or mount WILL be damaged.

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7-5

7

AF618D

8. Apply grease to the hub and drive axle splines; then

install the hub assembly onto the drive axle.

CD009

9. Secure the hub assembly with the nut. Tighten only

until snug.

10. Secure the brake caliper to the knuckle with two new

"patch-lock" cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

CD007

11. Secure the hub nut (from step 9) to the shaft/axle.

Tighten to 200 ft-lb.

NOTE: If the cotter pin does not line up, always

tighten to the next alignment.

12. Install a new cotter pin and spread the pin to secure

the nut.

CD008

13. Install the wheel and tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel wheels)

or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

14. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Rear A-Arms

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

2. Pump up the hand brake; then engage the brake lever

lock.

3. Remove the wheel.

4. Remove the cotter pin securing the hex nut; then

remove the hex nut. Release the brake lever lock.

5. Remove the caliper (right side only).

NOTE: Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from

the cable/hose.

6. Remove the cap screws and lock nut securing the

shock absorber to the frame and lower A-arm; then

remove the shock absorber.

7. Remove the cap screws securing the boot guard to

the lower A-arm.

AF934

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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7-6

8. Slide the hub out of the knuckle and set aside.

9. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

knuckle to the A-arms. Discard the lock nuts.

NOTE: Never reuse a lock nut. Once a lock nut has

been removed, it must be replaced with a new lock nut.

10. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

A-arms to the frame; th en remove the A-arms.

NOTE: If removing the upper right A-arm, it will be

necessary to disconnect the brake hose from the

A-arm.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all A-arm components using a pressure

washer.

2. Inspect the A-arm for bends, cracks, and worn bush-

ings.

3. Inspect the frame mounts for signs of damage, wear,

or weldment damage.

INSTALLING

1. Install the A-arm assemblies into the frame mounts

and secure with the cap screws and new lock nuts.

Only finger-tighten at this time.

2. Slide the knuckle onto the drive axle and into posi-

tion on the A-arms; then secure the knuckle to the

A-arms with cap screws and new lock nuts. Tighten

to 35 ft-lb (450 models) or 50 ft-lb (1000 models).

3. Tighten the hardware securing the A-arms to the

frame mounts (from step 1) to 50 ft-lb.

4. Apply grease on the drive axle splines; then install

the hub assembly onto the drive axle.

PR290

5. Secure the hub assembly with the nut. Tighten only

until snug.

6. Secure the brake caliper to the knuckle with two new

"patch-lock" cap screws (right side only). Tighten

the caliper to 20 ft-lb.

NOTE: Ensure that the brake hose is properly

routed and secured to the upper A-arm.

DE054A

7. Compress the hand brake lever and engage the brake

lever lock; then secure the hub nut (from step 5) to

the drive axle. Tighten to 200 ft-lb.

8. Install a new cotter pin and spread the pin to secure

the nut.

NOTE: If the cotter pin does not line up, always

tighten to the next alignment.

PR260

9. Secure the shock absorber to the frame with a cap

screw and new lock nut. Tighten to 50 ft-lb.

10. Secure the shock absorber to the lower A-arm with a

cap screw and new lock nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

11. Secure the boot guard to the lower A-arm with the

two cap screws. Tighten securely.

12. Install the wheel and tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel wheels)

or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

13. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Wheels and Tires

TIRE SIZE

The ATV is equipped with low-pressure tubeless tires of

the size and type listed in Section 1. Do not under any

circumstances substitute tires of a different type or size.

! WARNING

Use only Arctic Cat approved tires when replacing tires.

Failure to do so could result in unstable ATV operation.

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7-7

7

TIRE INFLATION PRESSURE

Front and rear tire inflation pressure should be as speci-

fied in Section 1.

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

2. Remove the wheels.

NOTE: Keep left-side and right-side wheels sepa-

rated for installing them on their proper sides.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean the wheels and hubs using a pressure washer.

2. Inspect each wheel for cracks, dents, or bends.

3. Inspect each tire for cuts, wear, missing lugs, and

leaks.

INSTALLING

Install each wheel on its hub. Tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel

wheels) or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

NOTE: Make sure each wheel is installed on its

proper hub as noted in removing (the "rotation

arrow" (if applicable) must indicate forward direction

of rotation).

AF612D

CHECKING/INFLATING

1. Using an air pressure gauge, measure the air pressure

in each tire. Adjust the air pressure as necessary to

meet the recommended inflation pressure.

2. Inspect the tires for damage, wear, or punctures.

NOTE: Be sure all tires are the specified size and

have identical tread pattern.

NOTE: If pulling is noted, measure the circumfer-

ence of the front and rear tires on the pulling side.

Compare the measurements with the tires on the

opposite side. If pulling is noted during braking only,

check and adjust the brakes as necessary and

recheck operation (see Section 2).

! WARNING

Do not mix tire tread patterns. Use the same pattern

type on front and rear. Failure to heed warning could

cause poor handling qualities of the ATV and could

cause excessive drive train damage not covered by war-

ranty.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

! WARNING

Do not operate the ATV if tire damage exists.

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7-8

Troubleshooting

Problem: Suspension too soft

Condition Remedy

1. Spring(s) weak

2. Shock absorber damaged

3. Shock absorber preload too low

1. Replace spring(s)

2. Replace shock absorber

3. Adjust shock absorber preload

Problem: Suspension too stiff

Condition Remedy

1. A-arm-related bushings worn

2. Shock absorber preload too high

1. Replace bushing

2. Adjust shock absorber preload

Problem: Suspension noisy

Condition Remedy

1. Cap screws (suspension system) loose

2. A-arm-related bushings worn

1. Tighten cap screws

2. Replace bushings

Problem: Rear wheel oscillation

Condition Remedy

1. Rear wheel hub bearings worn - loose

2. Tires defective - incorrect

3. Wheel rim distorted

4. Wheel hub cap screws loose

5. Auxiliary brake adjusted incorrectly

6. Rear suspension arm-related bushing worn

7. Rear shock absorber damaged

8. Rear suspension arm nut loose

1. Replace bearings

2. Replace tires

3. Replace rim

4. Tighten cap screws

5. Adjust brake

6. Replace bushing

7. Replace shock absorber

8. Tighten nut

Problem: Vehicle pulling or steering erratic

Condition Remedy

1. Vehicle steering is erratic on dry, level surface

2. Vehicle pulls left or right on dry, level surface

1. Check front wheel alignment and adjust if necessary (see

Section 8)

2. Check air pressure in tires and adjust to specifications

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8-1

8

SECTION 8 -

STEERING/FRAME/CONTROLS

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Steering/Frame/Controls ............................................ 2

LCD Gauge ................................................................ 2

Steering Post/Tie Rods .............................................. 2

Handlebar Grip........................................................... 6

Throttle Control .......................................................... 7

Steering Knuckles ...................................................... 8

Measuring/Adjusting Toe-Out ................................... 10

Shift Lever ................................................................ 11

Front Rack................................................................ 11

Front Bumper Assembly ........................................... 11

Front Body Panel/Side Panels.................................. 12

Footrests .................................................................. 15

Belly Panel ............................................................... 15

Exhaust System ....................................................... 16

Rear Body Panel/Rack ............................................. 16

Taillight Assembly..................................................... 17

Seat.......................................................................... 17

Troubleshooting ........................................................ 18

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8-2

Steering/Frame/Controls

The following steering components should be inspected

periodically to ensure safe and proper operation.

A. Handlebar grips not worn, broken, or loose.

B. Handlebar not bent, cracked, and has equal and

complete full-left and full-right capability.

C. Steering post bearing assembly/bearing housing

not broken, worn, or binding.

D. Ball joints not worn, cracked, or damaged.

E. Tie rods not bent or cracked.

F. Knuckles not worn, cracked, or damaged.

G. Cotter pins not damaged or missing.

The frame, welds, and racks should be checked periodi-

cally for damage, bends, cracks, deterioration, broken

components, and missing components.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located in

Section 1.

LCD Gauge

REPLACING

To replace the gauge, use the following procedure.

1. Remove the two reinstallable rivets securing the

instrument pod; then remove the ignition switch

retaining ring.

2. Remove the two nuts securing the mounting studs;

then remove the gauge and disconnect the

multi-pin connector.

3. Mount the gauge and secure with the two nuts;

then connect the multi-pin connector.

4. Install the instrument pod and secure with the rein-

stallable rivets.

5. Secure the ignition switch with the retaining ring.

Steering Post/Tie Rods

REMOVING

1. Remove the ignition switch retaining ring; then

remove the reinstallable rivets securing the instru-

ment pod to the mounting bracket and remove the

pod and LCD gauge.

FI463A

FI464A

2. Remove the reinstallable rivets securing the radiator

access cover and remove the cover.

FI465A

3. Remove four reinstallable rivets securing the steer-

ing post cover and remove the cover.

FI466A

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8-3

8

4. Unlatch the storage compartment lid; then slide the

storage compartment cover assembly forward and

lift off.

FI467A

5. Remove the storage compartment.

FI468

6. Remove the four cap screws securing the handlebar

caps and LCD gauge bracket to the steering post;

then move the handlebar and gauge out of the way.

Account for four handlebar caps.

CD762

7. Remove two cap screws securing the upper steering

post bearing to the frame. Account for two housings.

CD760

8. Using a suitable lift stand, raise the ATV enough to

remove the front wheels.

CD685

NOTE: For models not equipped with electronic

power steering, proceed to step 13.

9. Remove the left front shock absorber; then remove

the cap screws and nuts from the steering post to the

EPS couplers.

EPS005A

10. Pull upward on the handlebar to disengage the upper

coupler from the EPS assembly.

11. Disconnect the 2-pin and 8-pin connectors from the

top of the EPS housing.

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8-4

EPS007A

12. Remove four cap screws securing the EPS housing to

the frame; then lift the assembly upward sufficiently

to disengage the lower coupler and remove from the

left side.

13. Remove the cotter pins and slotted nuts from the

inner and outer tie rod ends; then remove the tie rods

from the steering post arm and the left-side and

right-side steering knuckles.

AF778D

KX039

14. Remove two cap screws securing the lower steering

post bearing flange to th e frame; then remove the

steering post.

AL600D

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean and inspect the pivot area for wear. Apply a

low-temperature grease to the ends.

2. Inspect the tie rods for damaged threads or wear.

3. Inspect the tie rods for cracks or unusual bends.

4. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deterioration.

5. Inspect the steering post and steering-post brackets

for cracks, bends, or wear.

6. Inspect the bearing halves, bearing caps, and bearing

housings for cracks or wear.

7. Inspect the handlebar tube for cracks, wear, or

unusual bends.

8. Inspect the handlebar grips for damage or wear.

INSTALLING (Models Without

Electronic Power Steering)

1. Place the steering post into position; then secure the

lower bearing flange to the frame with two cap

screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

AL600D

CAUTION

Do not attempt to disassemble the EPS assembly as

there are no serviceable components within the assem-

bly and damage will occur voiding the EPS warranty.

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when using compressed

air.

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8-5

8

2. Place the upper steering post bearings into the hous-

ings; then position on the steering post and secure the

housings to the frame with two cap screws. Tighten

to 20 ft-lb.

CD760

3. Install the tie rods and se cure with the slotted nuts.

Tighten to 30 ft-lb; then install new cotter pins.

NOTE: If the slots do not align with the holes in the

tie rod ends, tighten the nuts just enough to allow

installation of the cotter pins.

AF778D

4. Install the front wheels and tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel

wheels) or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels) using a criss-

cross pattern.

5. Lower the ATV and place the handlebar and caps

into position on the steering post; then position the

LCD gauge on top of the caps and secure with the

four cap screws. Tighten securely.

6. Install the storage compartment box; then attach the

storage compartment cover assembly by engaging

the tabs into the slots and sliding rearward. Lock the

storage compartment lid to hold the assembly in

place.

7. Place the instrument pod into position; then secure

with two reinstallable rivets and the ignition switch

retaining ring.

FI464A

FI463A

8. Install the steering post access cover and secure with

four reinstallable rivets; then install and secure the

radiator access cover.

FI466A

FI465A

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8-6

INSTALLING (Electronic Power

Steering Models)

1. Place the lower steering post into position; then

secure the lower bearing flange to the frame with two

cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

AL600D

2. Making sure the double spline is aligned to the slot in

the lower coupler, install the EPS output shaft into

the lower coupler; then install the four caps screws

securing the EPS housing to the frame. Tighten to 35

ft-lb.

EPS008A

EPS007

3. Install the tie rods and se cure with the slotted nuts.

Tighten to 30 ft-lb; then install new cotter pins.

NOTE: If the slots do not align with the holes in the

tie rod ends, tighten the nuts just enough to allow

installation of the cotter pins.

AF778D

EPS005A

4. Connect the 2-pin and 8-pin connectors to the EPS

assembly.

5. Install the upper steering post support to the frame

and secure with two cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

6. Install the storage compartment, steering post and

radiator access panels, and storage compartment

cover; then install the shock absorber and tighten to

50 ft-lb.

7. Install the front wheels and tighten the nuts to 40

ft-lb (steel wheels) or 80 ft-lb (aluminum wheels).

Handlebar Grip

REMOVING

1. Loosen but do not remove the cap screws in the end

of the handlebar; then tap lightly on the head to dis-

lodge the handlebar plug.

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8-7

8

KC310

KC309A

2. Grasp the end and remove the cap screw, plug, and

end cap.

INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively, cracked,

or damaged in any way, replacement is necessary.

1. Inspect the grip for wear, cuts, or cracks.

2. Inspect the grip for deterioration.

3. If a grip is damaged, cut the grip lengthwise using a

sharp knife or box cutter; then peel off the grip.

INSTALLING

NOTE: Before installing a grip, use contact removal

spray or alcohol to clean the handlebar of glue resi-

due, oil, or any other contaminant.

1. Apply a liberal amount of Handlebar Grip Adhesive

to the inside of a new grip.

2. Slide the grip onto the handlebar until it is fully

seated with the smooth part of the grip facing up.

3. Wipe off any excess glue; then secure the grip with

the handlebar end-cap.

Throttle Control

REMOVING

1. Remove the two machine screws securing the throt-

tle control to the handlebar.

2. Slide the grommet out of the lower half of the throt-

tle control; then remove the cable from the actuator

arm.

AF676D

3. Remove the cap screw, lock washer, and washer

securing the actuator arm to the throttle control lever.

AF677D

4. Remove the actuator arm and account for a bushing.

Note the position of the return spring for installing

purposes.

AF678D

INSTALLING

1. Place the return spring into the throttle control; then

place the bushing and actuator arm into position.

Secure with the cap screw, lock washer, and washer.

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8-8

AF679D

2. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, place the spring

into position on the actuator arm.

AF680D

3. Place the two halves of the throttle control onto the

handlebar and secure with the two machine screws.

ADJUSTING

To adjust throttle cable free-play, see Section 4.

Steering Knuckles

REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheel; then remove the wheel.

2. Remove the wheel cap from the hub; then remove

the cotter pin from the nut.

3. Remove the nut securing the hub.

4. Remove the brake caliper.

NOTE: Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from

the cable/hose.

5. Remove the hub assembly.

6. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end and

remove the tie rod end from the knuckle.

7. Remove the two cap screws securing the ball joints

in the knuckle.

8. Tap the ball joint end out of the knuckle; then

remove the knuckle.

9. Remove the snap ring from the knuckle; then remove

the bearing.

PR287A

PR288

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all knuckle components.

2. Inspect the bearing for pits, gouges, rusting, or pre-

mature wear.

3. Inspect the knuckle for cracks, breaks, or porosity.

4. Inspect threads for stripping or damage.

ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLING

1. Install the bearing; then install the snap ring making

sure it seats into the knuckle.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

CAUTION

Use extreme care when removing the bearing. If the

bearing is allowed to fall, it will be damaged and will

have to be replaced.

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8-9

8

PR287A

2. Install the knuckle to the upper and lower ball joints

and secure with the two cap screws. Tighten to 35

ft-lb.

AF628D

3. Install the tie rod end and secure with the nut.

Tighten to 30 ft-lb; then install a new cotter pin and

spread the pin.

NOTE: During assembling, new cotter pins should

be installed.

AF618D

4. Apply a small amount of grease to the hub splines.

PR290A

5. Install the hub assembly onto the splines of the shaft.

6. Secure the hub assembly with the nut. Tighten only

until snug.

PR257

7. Secure the brake caliper to the knuckle with new

"patch-lock" cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

PR264A

8. Pump the hand brake lever; then engage the brake

lever lock.

9. Secure the hub nut (from step 6) to the shaft. Tighten

to 200 ft-lb.

10. Install a new cotter pin and spread the pin to secure

the nut.

11. Install the wheel; then using a crisscross pattern,

tighten to 40 ft-lb (steel wheels) or 80 ft-lb (alumi-

num wheels).

12. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

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8-10

Measuring/Adjusting

Toe-Out

1. Thoroughly wash the ATV to remove excess weight

(mud, etc.).

2. Refer to the specifications and ensure the tires are

properly inflated to the recommended pressure.

NOTE: Ensure the inflation pressure is correct in

the tires or inaccurate measurements can occur.

3. Place the ATV in a level position taking care not to

push down or lift up on the front end; then turn the

handlebar to the straight ahead position.

NOTE: When measuring and adjusting, there

should be a normal operating load on the ATV (with-

out an operator but with Arctic Cat approved acces-

sories).

4. Measure the distance from the outside edge of each

handlebar grip to equal reference points on each.

DE047A

5. Adjust the handlebar direction until the two measure-

ments are equal; then secure the handlebar to the rear

rack using tie-down straps.

NOTE: Care must be taken not to allow the handle-

bar to turn while securing it.

CD014

6. Measure the distance from the inside of each front

rim to the lower frame tube.

AF785D

AF786D

NOTE: The distances from the inside rims to the

frame tubes should be equal. If the measurements

are equal, proceed to step 8; if the measurements are

not equal, proceed to step 7.

7. To make the measurements equal, loosen the appro-

priate tie rod jam nuts and adjust accordingly; then

proceed to step 8.

AF617D

AF778D

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8-11

8

NOTE: The front wheels do not have to be removed

to adjust the tie rod. Also, care should be taken not to

disturb the handlebar position.

8. Using a permanent marker of some type, mark the

center of each front tire (at a height parallel to the

belly panel).

AF789D

9. Measure the distance between the marks (at a height

parallel to the belly panel) at the front side; then

record the measurement.

10. Push the ATV forward until the marks are parallel to

the belly panel on the back side; then measure the

distance between the marks.

11. The difference in the measurements must show

1/8-1/4 in. toe-out (the front measurement 1/8-1/4 in.

more than the rear measurement).

12. If the difference in the measurements is not within

specifications, adjust both tie rods equally until

within specifications.

NOTE: Prior to locking the jam nuts, make sure the

ball joints are at the center of their normal range of

motion and at the correct angle.

733-559A

Shift Lever

REMOVING

1. Remove the E-clip securing the shift rod to the shift

lever.

2. Remove two cap screws, two self-tapping screws,

and three nylon ties securing the left-side splash

panel and remove the panel.

3. Remove the axle and nut securing the shift lever to

the upper shift arm; then remove the shift lever.

Account for a spring and two O-rings.

INSTALLING

1. Place the spring into position between the upper shift

arm and shift lever; then making sure the O-rings are

in place on the axle, secure the shift lever to the arm

with the existing axle and nut.

2. Place the shift rod into position on the shift lever and

secure with the existing E-clip.

3. Check shift lever adjustment (see Section 2); then

tighten jam nut(s) securely.

4. Install the left-side splash panel.

Front Rack

REMOVING

1. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

rack to the frame an d front fender panel.

2. Remove the front rack from the ATV.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all rack components using a pressure washer.

2. Inspect all welds for cracking or bending.

3. Inspect threaded areas of all mounting bosses for

stripping.

4. Inspect for missing decals and/or reflectors.

INSTALLING

1. Place the rack into position on the frame and front

fender panel. Install the cap screws and lock nuts and

finger-tighten only.

2. Install the two cap screws and lock nuts securing the

rack to the fenders. Tighten all hardware securely.

Front Bumper Assembly

REMOVING

1. Remove the two flange bolts and lock nuts securing

the upper bumper supports to the bumper.

2. Remove the through-bolt and lock nut securing the

bumper to the frame; th en remove the bumper.

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8-12

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all bumper components with parts-cleaning

solvent.

2. Inspect all welds for cracking or bending.

INSTALLING

1. Place the front bumper assembly into position and

install the through-bolt. Start the lock nut and fin-

ger-tighten only.

2. Install the two flange bolts and lock nuts on the

upper supports. Tighten all hardware securely.

Front Body Panel/Side

Panels

REMOVING

1. Remove the reinstallable rivets securing the radiator

access cover and remove the cover; then remove four

reinstallable rivets securing the steering post cover

and remove the cover.

FI465A

FI466A

2. Unlock the storage compartment lid; then slide the

storage compartment cover assembly forward and

lift off the storage compartment.

FI467

3. Remove the storage compartment box; then remove

the seat.

FI468

4. Remove the ignition switch retaining ring and two

reinstallable rivets securing the instrument pod; then

remove the instrument pod.

FI463A

FI464A

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8-13

8

5. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

front rack to the frame; then remove the front rack.

Account for the grommets and bushings.

FI469A

6. Remove the side panels by pulling on them to release

the tabs from the body; then remove the screws

securing the rear of the front panel to the frame.

CF237A

FI470A

7. Remove the left and right footwells; then remove the

shift knob. Remove the shift lever pivot axle nut and

remove the axle and shift lever. Account for a spring

and two O-rings.

CD779

CD780A

8. Disconnect four headlight connectors and secure the

wires out of the way; then disconnect the wires to the

front accessory plug.

CD681

9. Rotate the handlebar to the full-left position; then lift

and slide the panel to the rear and lift the rear up to

clear the handlebar.

CD765A

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8-14

NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the body panel

to the right to align the opening with the handlebar.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all fender components with warm soap and

water.

2. Inspect fenders for cracks and/or loose rivets.

3. Inspect for any missing decals.

INSTALLING

1. Rotate the handlebar to the full-left position; then

place the front body panel over the handlebar and

rotate and lower into position.

CD765

2. Connect the headlight connectors to the appropriate

headlights and the front accessory plug wires to the

accessory plug.

CD681

3. Make sure the rubber grommets and bushings are in

place; then place the front rack into position and

secure with the cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten

securely.

4. Install the footwells and foot rests. Tighten securely.

5. Install the cap screws securing the front body panel

to the frame and rear panel.

FI470A

6. Install the shift lever spring, shift lever, and pivot

axle; then tighten the axle nut securely.

CD779

7. Install the instrument pod and ignition switch; then

secure with two reinstallable rivets and the ignition

switch retaining ring.

8. Set the storage compartment box into position; then

install the storage compartment cover making sure

the mounting tabs engage the slots. Slide rearward to

secure and lock by engaging the lid lock.

FI468

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8-15

8

FI467

9. Install the steering post cover and secure with the

reinstallable rivets; then install and secure the radia-

tor access panel.

FI466A

FI465A

10. Install the side panels.

Footrests

REMOVING

1. Remove the machine screws and flange nuts secur-

ing the front and rear fenders to the footwells.

CD691A

2. Remove the screws securing the foot pegs to the

footrests; then remove the foot pegs and footwells.

3. Remove the cap screws and flange nuts securing the

footrests to the frame; then remove the footrests.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean the footrest in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Inspect the footrest weldments for cracks or unusual

bends.

3. Inspect all tubing for cracks or unusual bends.

INSTALLING

1. Secure the footrests to the frame with four cap

screws and two flange nuts; then tighten the 8 mm

hardware to 20 ft-lb and the 10 mm hardware to 40

ft-lb.

2. Place the footwells onto the footrests; then put the

foot pegs in position and secure with two cap screws.

3. Install the machine screws and flange nuts securing

the front and rear fenders to the footwells.

Belly Panel

REMOVING/INSTALLING

1. Remove the machine screws and shoulder washers

securing the belly panel to the underside of the

frame; then remove the belly panel.

2. Place the belly panel into position on the underside

of the frame; then install the machine screws and

shoulder washers. Tighten securely.

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8-16

Exhaust System

REMOVING MUFFLER

1. Remove the two exhaust springs at the muf-

fler/exhaust pipe juncture.

CF138A

2. Slide the muffler rearward to clear the mounting lugs

and remove the muffler.

INSPECTING MUFFLER

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Inspect muffler externally for cracks, holes, and

dents.

2. Inspect the muffler internally by shaking the muffler

back and forth and listening for rattles or loose debris

inside the muffler.

NOTE: For additional details on cleaning the muf-

fler/spark arrester, see Section 2.

INSTALLING MUFFLER

1. Place the muffler into position engaging the mount-

ing lugs into the grommets; then slide the muffler

forward.

2. Install the two exhaust springs.

Rear Body Panel/Rack

REMOVING

1. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

rear rack; then remove the rear rack. Account for the

bushings.

2. Remove one shoulder screw and lock nut and three

plastic rivets (on each side) securing the rear body

panel to the footwells.

CD691A

3. Remove two machine screws securing the battery

cover and remove the cover.

CD687A

4. Disconnect the battery (negative cable first); then

remove the battery.

5. Disconnect the taillight/brakelight; then remove the

gas tank cap and lift off the rear body panel. Install

the gas tank cap.

NOTE: If the front body panel has not been

removed, the left-side and right-side panels and the

two machine screws must be removed (see Front

Body Panel/Side Panels in this section).

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Clean all rear body panel components with warm

soap and water.

2. Inspect side panels and rear body panel for cracks

and loose rivets.

3. Inspect threaded areas of all mounting bosses for

stripping.

4. Inspect for missing decals.

INSTALLING

1. Remove the gas tank cap and set the rear body panel

in position; then install the cap and connect the tail-

light/brakelight connector.

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8-17

8

2. Place the rear rack in position with the bushings and

secure with the cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten

securely.

3. Install one shoulder screw and three plastic rivets (on

each side) to secure the front of the rear body panel

to the footwells.

CD691

4. Place the battery into the battery box; then connect

the battery (positive cable first) and secure with the

battery cover.

CD687A

5. Secure the front and rear panels with two machine

screws; then install the left and right side panels.

NOTE: If the front body panel has not been

installed, see Front Body Panel/Side Panels in this

section.

6. Place the seat into position making sure it locks

securely.

Taillight Assembly

REMOVING

1. Unplug the three-prong connector and free the tail-

light wiring harness from the frame.

2. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the tail-

light assembly to the frame. Account for any wash-

ers.

3. Remove the taillight assembly.

INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is nec-

essary.

1. Inspect wiring harness, three-prong connector, lens,

base, cap screws, and socket for damage.

2. Inspect all wires for corroding, pinching, and crack-

ing.

3. Inspect the bulb for wattage, voltage, and proper

operation.

INSTALLING

1. Place the assembly into position on the frame and

secure with torx-head cap screws and any washers.

2. Tighten the cap screws securely.

3. Route the wiring harness over the rear frame; then

connect the three-prong connector.

Seat

REMOVING/INSTALLING

1. To remove the seat, lift up on the latch release

(located at the rear of the seat). Raise the rear of the

seat and slide it rearward.

2. To lock the seat into position, slide the front of the

seat into the seat retainers and push down firmly on

the rear of seat. The seat should automatically lock

into position.

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8-18

Troubleshooting

Problem: Handling too heavy or stiff

Condition Remedy

1. Front wheel alignment incorrect

2. Lubrication inadequate

3. Tire inflation pressure low

4. Tie rod ends seizing

5. Linkage connections seizing

1. Adjust alignment

2. Lubricate appropriate components

3. Adjust pressure

4. Replace tie rod ends

5. Repair - replace connections

Problem: Steering oscillation

Condition Remedy

1. Tires inflated unequally

2. Wheel(s) wobbly

3. Wheel hub cap screw(s) loose - missing

4. Wheel hub bearing worn - damaged

5. Tie rod ends worn - loose

6. Tires defective - incorrect

7. A-arm bushings damaged

8. Bolts - nuts (frame) loose

1. Adjust pressure

2. Replace wheel(s)

3. Tighten - replace cap screws

4. Replace bearing

5. Replace - tighten tie rod ends

6. Replace tires

7. Replace bushings

8. Tighten bolts - nuts

Problem: Steering pulling to one side

Condition Remedy

1. Tires inflated unequally

2. Front wheel alignment incorrect

3. Wheel hub bearings worn - broken

4. Frame distorted

5. Shock absorber defective

1. Adjust pressure

2. Adjust alignment

3. Replace bearings

4. Repair - replace frame

5. Replace shock absorber

Problem: Tire wear rapid or uneven

Condition Remedy

1. Wheel hub bearings worn - loose

2. Front wheel alignment incorrect

3. Tire inflation pressure incorrect

1. Replace bearings

2. Adjust alignment

3. Adjust pressure

Problem: Steering noise

Condition Remedy

1. Cap screws - nuts loose

2. Wheel hub bearings broken - damaged

3. Lubrication inadequate

1. Tighten cap screws - nuts

2. Replace bearings

3. Lubricate appropriate components

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Where Is the Spark Plug on Arctic Cat Atv 250

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